Derya pump and bolt action 9mm pcc

I appreciate the range reviews and sharing, thank you. This is where I'm at:

Cons:
Ugly, unproven, Turkish, not a semi, I haven't shouldered one and have no direct experience.

Pros:
1) Non-restricted 9mm (FRN # 200430, thx BP4W)
2) Takes (Glock) mags
3) Small and light enough (28", 5lb) to be a backpack / camp / truck / newcomer gun
4) Largely compatible with parts and accessories already owned (sticker price is the cost)
5) Does OK in the "value / utility to banability" ratio (if such things matter)

(edited FRN)
 
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The 12" is 28" oal, so the 9" is ... guess I should look it up b4 I ask lol. but I see a 1inch diff...although, there are many ways it could've been addressed, or not, like the mars-legs.
I'm not familiar with a 9 inch model but given some of the mare's leg setups it's possible that there could be a Non restricted less then 28" model at some point given it needs to hands to operate.

Which model has a 9 inch barrel? Maybe it was a typo around 9mm not 9 inches as I can't see them modifying the length of the foreend and the slide part of the pump mechanism just to shave a few inches off the barrel?
The bolt action would be easier to shorten though but personally 12 inches suits me just fine.... :)
 
OK, Range Trip #2 report. Took it to my local indoor 20 yard range last night. Buddy forgot his glock mags for me to try (duh!) but I brought two PMag magazines (17 round pinned to 10, and a 10 rounder). I also brought a box of Winchester WhiteBox 115gr 9mm ammo to try instead of my handloads (115gr Camro bullets).

With the included mags I again got FTF with the Winchester ammo. It appears that those magazines can be inserted too high and too low for reliable feeding.

The two PMags worked fine with both my handloads and the Winchester ammo when the magazines were inserted on a closed bolt. On an open bolt you can insert the mags too far and then you can't work the action.

So, next is to put it on my Form 6NIA so I can finally shoot more PCC matches in Michigan!
 
OK, Range Trip #2 report. Took it to my local indoor 20 yard range last night. Buddy forgot his glock mags for me to try (duh!) but I brought two PMag magazines (17 round pinned to 10, and a 10 rounder). I also brought a box of Winchester WhiteBox 115gr 9mm ammo to try instead of my handloads (115gr Camro bullets).

With the included mags I again got FTF with the Winchester ammo. It appears that those magazines can be inserted too high and too low for reliable feeding.

The two PMags worked fine with both my handloads and the Winchester ammo when the magazines were inserted on a closed bolt. On an open bolt you can insert the mags too far and then you can't work the action.

So, next is to put it on my Form 6NIA so I can finally shoot more PCC matches in Michigan!
You have the 16” version?
 
Ok, got mine today. I have also accidentally found out why the other member's gun is hard to pump, most likely. Details below!

Here are some initial observations :

- When I opened the box, the gun inside was sealed in the original plastic factory bag, but it was in 2 PIECES. The stock portion was separated from the receiver, like a takedown (lol).

- Upon inspection to find out what TF was going on, it turned out that the screw holding the rear portion and grip was cross-threaded and the factory did not torque it right, in all evidence. The first 3 threads have actually stripped some of the threads inside the receiver and were still stuck to the end of the screw in the stock :

000.jpg


- So, instead of returning the gun I decided to get it adressed myself. I cleaned the screw and removed the grip, then unscrewed the rest of the stock from the fake "buffer tube" to access the stock screw which screws into the receiver. It's fairly straight forward to take the gun apart. I noticed that there was still enough threads left in the receiver to secure the stock properly and used blue loctite to make sure it doesn't come apart again. Here is a picture of the buffer tube unscrewed. There is a small locking screw at the bottom which needs to be removed :


003.jpg


- I have changed the flip up sights to another set I had lying around and also "upgraded" the magazine to a Magpul Pmag 17/10, which seems to insert and lock up more positively than the shorter OEM mags.

- Finally, I have also removed the "leftover" rear sight, as it will impede any optics / red dot installation with the flip up sights on the gun. To do this, you need a 1/16 steel punch (I have an Irwin set) to punch it out. Take note that you will need a QUALITY punch to do this... the sight pin is REALLY stuck in there and my cheap Chinesium punch bent in half and the pin wouldn't budge. The Irwin one did the job just fine.

After removing the rear sight and the screw, you are left with a threaded hole at the top of the receiver. I figured to just reinstall the screw that was there initially and torque it down, so I did. However, the gun's bolt would NOT OPEN after I did this : the pump mechanism was stuck in the closed position!

Evidently, the screw protruded enough where it actually locked the bolt in place. I noticed that the front sight the gun came with had a shorter screw, so I swapped them. The shorter screw tightened all the way down and did not impede on the bolt. Success! Here is a picture of the rear sight removed and the hole plugged up with the screw that came with the FRONT sight :

002.jpg


- The mechanism DOES NOT have any provision to prevent out of battery detonations. You can actually drop the hammer while the bolt is still 1/4 of an inch from closing and a picked up round is entering battery. I tested this with Snap-Caps, it WILL fire out of battery! This could become a potential issue in some circumstances. (NOTE : I may be in error on this. See posts below)

- Overall, I have to admit that I LIKE IT! The gun is easy to pump and doesn't feel "cheap". I'm not sure if I lucked out or what, but the magazine catch seems to work well. I have added a little oil with a needle oiler onto the hinged moving parts, as it felt a bit gritty. Now it works a lot better.

- The bottom of the foregrip has some sort of cover on it. I wonder if this is an M-Lok cover? I haven't taken it apart yet, so don't know yet. It does seem thick enough to support a pic rail with a vertical grip, which would be a nice addition. I have already pinched my pinky quite badly while racking the slide back and forth, lol. (NOTE : By looking inside with a flashlight, I do not see any M-Lok holes, etc. on the inside of the foregrip. It's just flat plastic on the inside, meaning that one would need to mill or drill holes for a pic rail.)

Here is the foregrip (pump) :

004.jpg

005.jpg


Next step will be to take er out to the range and see how she does!

:)

001.jpg
 
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The hammer dropping with the gun out of battery does not guarantee ignition.

It may not be able to reach the firing pin unless it's in battery, like an AR, for example.

You may be correct.

I tested this by putting several small patches of painter's tape on a stainless Snap-Cap and firing the hammer in different positions. When I hold the slide in an almost closed position with the round in the chamber and press the trigger, it goes off but I do not seem to get a firing pin strike.

However, when I'm not holding the slide and fire out of battery, the slide goes about 2mm forward by itself and I get a firing pin impression on the simulated primer. Is this "safe" with a live round? I don't know. Feel free to do the experiment yourselves and report back with your comments.

That said.... does anyone have the stones to test this with a live primer and report back....? ;)

006.jpg
 
Ok, got mine today. I have also accidentally found out why the other member's gun is hard to pump, most likely. Details below!

Here are some initial observations :

- When I opened the box, the gun inside was sealed in the original plastic factory bag, but it was in 2 PIECES. The stock portion was separated from the receiver, like a takedown (lol).

- Upon inspection to find out what TF was going on, it turned out that the screw holding the rear portion and grip was cross-threaded and the factory did not torque it right, in all evidence. The first 3 threads have actually stripped some of the threads inside the receiver and were still stuck to the end of the screw in the stock :




- So, instead of returning the gun I decided to get it adressed myself. I cleaned the screw and removed the grip, then unscrewed the rest of the stock from the fake "buffer tube" to access the stock screw which screws into the receiver. It's fairly straight forward to take the gun apart. I noticed that there was still enough threads left in the receiver to secure the stock properly and used blue loctite to make sure it doesn't come apart again. Here is a picture of the buffer tube unscrewed. There is a small locking screw at the bottom which needs to be removed :

Had the exact same thing happen to me, taking mine to the range as I did the same as you. Even the cross threading, had a hunk almost identical. The box was also not well filled so I imagine the gun bouncing all over the place it the box didn't help
 
Got a TM22, 762mm?

They'll do the same thing. Drop the hammer when it's not all the way in battery. They don't go bang.
A fair number of guns will do this. My 10/22 will drop the hammer when it's at least 1/8" out of battery, but the hammer just hits the back edge of the bolt and can't reach the firing pin. All the hammer energy goes into driving the bolt forward. 762mm's explanation sounds similar to this situation.


Mark
 
Pro tip to make the pumping action much easier, less slippery and require less effort : Add 2 pieces of rounded 2.5" picatinny rails with M-Lok fasteners, on BOTH sides of the foregrip.

The added girth and traction while fitting inside the palm of the hand really makes this pump action a LOT better!


007.jpg


For reference, the rail used is the same as I posted here :

(except that you will need 2 of the short ones. Each set comes with 1)

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...and-bolt-action-9mm-pcc.2560530/post-21304879


.
 
You may be correct.

I tested this by putting several small patches of painter's tape on a stainless Snap-Cap and firing the hammer in different positions. When I hold the slide in an almost closed position with the round in the chamber and press the trigger, it goes off but I do not seem to get a firing pin strike.

However, when I'm not holding the slide and fire out of battery, the slide goes about 2mm forward by itself and I get a firing pin impression on the simulated primer. Is this "safe" with a live round? I don't know. Feel free to do the experiment yourselves and report back with your comments.

That said.... does anyone have the stones to test this with a live primer and report back....? ;)

View attachment 1154780
When I did my 10/22 test I used primed cases and feeler guages.

Just did a test with my 1022.. I used feeler gauges to space out the bolt. I could get the hammer to drop past 0.115" of gap. But .022" to .0224" I had ignition.

Every firing pin can be different and I was getting light strikes up to .045 of gap. So out of battery can happen with a 1022.


A bottom m loc for a AFG or hand stop. Would probably improve it alot for ease of pumping.
 
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