Detail Stripping CZ85 Combat

pilot_dc

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Does anybody know of a good reference for doing this. I took one look at the internals and decided I'd never get it back together if I attempt this without some sort of guide.
 
Gunsmiths either love or hate it when a guy drops a 'bag o' CZ' on the counter and requests that it be reassembled into a working firearm!
I have it from more than one knowledgable source that the novice is ill-advised to embark on the CZ 'detail strip voyage'.
Unless it's broke........
 
I've been able to successfully detail strip every firearm I've ever owned. I found one souce in german on how to do it and it looks long, but straightforward. My german is WAY too weak to try it with just those directions though....
 
Well, I've watched Rodger take apart the trigger mechanism on CZs/Tanfoglios about 40 times... let's see what I remember...

Hmmm... Pull the little spring thiggie from the slot thiggie, push a dental pick into the depths of that other thiggie... push... wiggle the safety latch and pull it out... then the sear and the block fall out... push out the pin through the block and it separates into sear and the block, with the pin and the little spring coming apart too...

That's the level of MY understanding, haha - understandably some details are fuzzy, since it's all black magic to me ;)

Sorry, can't be much more help :redface:
 
Fair enough, maybe I'll just go off the german site with my dictionary... Could be risky but there's lots of pics :p

Now I just have to remember where that site was.... I'm off to Google!
 
CZ 75 and 85 are pretty much the same pistol. Get a detail view and play with your pistol until you know how to take it apart.

The 75 series isnt that bad. Get a pick and some little punchs.

D_
 
I'd look into getting a DVD from the American Gunsmithing Institute. they run about $35 from brownells and it is almost foolproof for detailed dis/assembly. I have one for my Sig 226 and it is worth it.
 
Ok, last night I decided that I could no longer own a gun that I couldn't 100% service. So apart came the 75b compact. I wrote this in another thread, but thought it could be useful to some others. Here is a short piece of how it went:

I left the slide alone, concentrating only on the frame.

This is how "I" did this. I'm not claiming to be a master CZ gunsmith. This is the FIRST CZ I've worked on. Be sure you are comfortable doing this. This is not your armours manual. Also make sure YOU look at the orientation of parts/springs before you remove anything.

First, remove the grips.

Next remove the small pin that holds the top of the mag retainer (#25 above).

Remove the mainspring cap/spring by punching out the pin in the bottom end of the grip (#23). Then remove parts #22 and #21. Be careful that spring has a LOT of tension on it.

The next part is going to be VERY hard to describe without a photo, and I wish I had a macro camera (if I had a $.01 for everytime I've said that lately...)

First you need to lift the arm of the sear spring out of the groove in the safety arm. I just moved it aside on top of the ejector part. This spring arm lies in a groove in the pin of the Safety. The safety slides through the frame, through the ejector assembly and in the middle of the ejector assembly you will see a notch with the spring arm. This is small and the spring is farily stiff. It took me a couple tries to get it out of there.

Next you will need to locate a VERY tiny plunger for the safety (#30&31). Essentially the part that makes the safety go "click" when you move it. It is on the left side of the frame JUST behind the safety pin. I used a toothpick to hold the plunger rearward, then slid the safety out of the frame. Careful not to let the plunger go flying once the safety is removed. You should then be able to lift out the ejector/sear assembly. You can then remove the plunger and spring from the frame.

One final pin in the ejector assembly will release the sear and B series parts.BUT first I would drop the sear spring back down into it's position so there is less tension on it. The firing pin block part and spring (#14&15) come out easily and there is little tension on the spring.

Moving to the hammer, there is a small retaining pin for the hammer pin. It sits vertically in the frame. Push it up from the outside of the frame (it can now be pushed up since the ejector assy. is not there) and out of the frame(#19). Now the hammer pin should easily be able to be pushed out from the right side toward the left side of the frame. The hammer/strut/disconnector can now be lifted out of the frame as a unit.

The only pin that did not come out easily for me was the disconnecter pin on the hammer. It was in there pretty good, and I had no reason to remove it. To replace the hammer however, you will need to punch it out and move it to the new hammer.

The trigger and trigger bar. The trigger spring (#eight) has good tension on it, so be careful. Punch out the trigger retaining pin (#6) with your finger over the top of the trigger spring as you do it. You should now be able to remove the spring, and lift out the trigger and trigger bar from the frame. Removing the small pin in the trigger (#9) will separate the trigger from the trigger bar (#7)

Punch the slide lock spring pin (#4) into the frame and remove the slide lock spring (#3).

Unscrew the screw (#35) that holds the mag spring (#33) and the trigger bar spring (#34). Carefully remove both springs. The Mag release spring is fairly stiff. Now the mag release (#32) can be slid out of the frame left to right.

You now have one bare CZ75b frame. Happy cleaning.

Some assembly notes:

The trigger/trigger spring was a MAJOR PITA to put back in. Now I know why the manual calls for an assembly pin. It looked to me like the hammer ping retaining pin would work, but I never tried it out. I did finally get it...

I HATE putting the hammer spring parts back together. But I think I have it now. To make it easier for me. I slide the slide onto the frame. Use a punch to depress the spring cap, and barely slide the pin in, just enough to hold it. Then insert the mag brake (#24) into place and push pin the rest of the way in.

For some reason the sear and sear spring were tough to get aligned. I just had to really take my time and get them perfect. I partially put the sear pin into the ejector, then put the sear into place and slide the pin a little further. Then put the spring in and slide a little further through the other side of the sear. Then I inserted the firing pin block part and spring and fully seated the pin. MAKE SURE you put the firing pin block piece back on the way it came off. It fits both way... but only works one.

Hope this helps.

While I had everything apart, I thoroughly cleaned everything, and polished some surfaces. The top of the trigger bar and bottom of the ejector. Where the trigger bar meets disconnetor (DA pull). The hammer and sear (SA pull), but I did not change angles or stone them. Polished the firing pin block part and disconnector.

The edge on the trigger bothered me, so I used a small round file to ease the edge off. I then used some 600 grit wet/dry paper cut into thin strips and rounded the edges. MUCH better now. I also removed some rough edges from the hammer strut and blued. I also broke some rough edges on the hammer and smoothed it out.

Cleaned everything, lightly greased and reassembled. Why I got. A MUCH better DA pull. SA maybe a little better, but not nearly as noticeable as the DA pull. I think the trigger bar, ejector and disconnector polishing is what did the trick. The DA pull is VERY smooth and breaks clean. In fact I think it breaks cleaner than the SA pull now. There is still quite a hook on the hammer, and the hammer/sear edges I left in more of a "combat" state. I.E. this is not a competition gun with a 2# trigger. I like the fact that a C&L gun has a good hook on the hammer. Even still, the SA pull is still pretty good, and possibly a hair better than it was.

Next will be the slide. Really just the firing pin and firing pin block. I want to polish the Firing pin block and hole as much as possible. Hopefully to smooth that up a bit.

Once I get this gun done, next will be the 97b. THAT gun I will hopefully modify the hammer/sear engagement to smooth out the SA pull for pin shooting!

Happy shooting!

Stolen from another forum - cannot remember the author.

Hope this helps. Make sure you get an exploded view and it'll be ok.

D_
 
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