Detail stripping the M-14 trigger group??

Canuck223

Canuck223

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It looks like it all starts with the hammer forward and drifting out the pin that holds the trigger and hammer spring plunger out.

Any tips for the newbie?
 
I really can't help other than to say I've done it a few times, it isn't too hard and with a little time and patience it's easy enough to get together. Might be handy to take some detail pics before you dissasemble it for reference.
 
I will jump in here and tell you what NOT to do ! Pull the trigger and make the hammer go in the "Up" position .
ALWAYS remove the rigger pin 1ST ! It is best if you can compress the trigger /hammer spring with your spare hand then use a punch to push out the trigger pin . This will free the trigger,hammer spring housing, hammer spring and hammer spring plunger . Now your are ready to remove the hammer pin ,same way push it out from left to right . This should make the hammer available then a gentle twist of the safety ,safety spring and the trigger gaurd .
DO NOT DO what I did once and remove the hammer pin 1st ,if you do you will be in for the fight of your life and you may never get it back together! You will curse and curse some more .
They sell a tool for this but I find that with practice ,this method works and is very easy ! Norinco trigger pins "**ck" and if you can find a USGI or USGI spec trigger pin your reassembly will be much easier !
I hope this helps ! Your friend in the U.S.
Mike
 
Generally speaking, there is no need to take it apart unless you have a significant problem. Clean with a tooth brush and lightly oil. Just as you don't strip out the trigger group on an AR or hunting rifle, there is no need to do it on the M14 series.

If you must take it apart, ensure you have a good manual to help you figure it out. I use a small clamp...the type you grip to tighten....to hold it together as I take it apart.

Again, not needed unless you have a problem.....you will just loose something sooner or later....that is why I have some spares....because you will eventually loose a part or spring...

Cheers

Jeff
 
Thanks guys. I don't make a habit of stripping out the trigger system. Since the gun is new and still dripping with Cosmoline, I wanted to strip it apart and Simple Green the beast.

Instead, I just blasted it with brake cleaner and wiped all the surfaces down with CLP to get rid of the white goo left behind.
 
Canuck223 said:
Thanks guys. I don't make a habit of stripping out the trigger system. Since the gun is new and still dripping with Cosmoline, I wanted to strip it apart and Simple Green the beast.

Instead, I just blasted it with brake cleaner and wiped all the surfaces down with CLP to get rid of the white goo left behind.
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Good choice. Don't forget to put grease on the top of the hammer.....the part on top with hammer is locked back...

Cheers

Jeff
 
Morpheus32 said:
Good choice. Don't forget to put grease on the top of the hammer.....the part on top with hammer is locked back...

Cheers

Jeff
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I used to use a cardiac syringe with a flexible catheter to pump grease into my 1050. I've been using this to pump thin lines of grease on the op-rod groove, bolt lug track, roller and roller path on the op-rod.

I used a dab of grease on the four hammer hooks. If the flat of the hammer needs a smear, I'll get'er'done.
 
ARWEN ACE said:
Hey there Canuck 223, come on over some time and I will give you a mini trigger course. You buy the Timmy's.
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Sweet Jesus man! You already underbill me for gunsmithing. Now you want me to take up your time with coffee and trigger talk! Why is it you didn't have a single daughter 10 years ago?:D
 
Well if you don't want to take advantage of Arwen Ace's kindness, drive up to Collingwood and I can show you all about the ins and outs of your trigger group.

There are all kinds of tips that are easier to show you than explain in writing here on the board....

All of the advice given from Morpheus32 to Mikebaker1129 is great and helpful. Stick with it. Yes it is nice to have a 3rd hand to 'tap' in that trigger axis pin that last 1/8" or so. I've done this operation many times.

Dang, I shoulda included that trigger group dis/re-assembly in the 2004 clinic. So little time.....
 
JDForBrkFst said:
Why must all you m14 guru's be so far away?
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I was thinking the same thing!!! We need to WestJet Hungry and SKB out here for a weekend and put them to work on all our floppy glass cylinders, unindexed barrels, and self destructing rear sites. :dancingbanana:
 
Kwattro said:
I was thinking the same thing!!! We need to WestJet Hungry and SKB out here for a weekend and put them to work on all our floppy glass cylinders, unindexed barrels, and self destructing rear sites.
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And get the whole thing on digital video!
 
Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix a sticky safety. I just unboxed mine and found that the safety is a real bugger to set. It seems that the hammer isn't held down far enough in the cocked position. I can easily put on the safety if I cycle the bolt back part way to lower the hammer some more.
 
Fire said:
Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix a sticky safety. I just unboxed mine and found that the safety is a real bugger to set. It seems that the hammer isn't held down far enough in the cocked position. I can easily put on the safety if I cycle the bolt back part way to lower the hammer some more.
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I believe the safety is supposed to compress the hammer down, off the sear. What you are describing sounds normal. Hard on, easy off is probably ok.
 
If you want the safety to go on easier (I did), you just need to lightly sand/polish the underside of the "hook". Remove only the very tiniest amount of material and frequently try it.
If you remove too much it's screwed. The hammer will move off the sear, the safety will catch it; but you'll have to re-#### the hammer to move the safety to 'off'.
It should positively "click" into the 'safe' position; but it should be smooth.
 
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