determining thread pitch

alinalberta

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I have a a threaded hole that I cannot determine the pitch size. None of my screws and taps fit. Has anyone tried casting a epoxy " screw " to do this.

I was thinking of a small screw in the middle to be able to withdraw it after.

Any suggestions would be great.
 
I have never cast an epoxy "screw". I have made tapered hardwood pegs which I twisted into the hole, causing the wood to be threaded. The impressions were then measured with a thread gauge.
Where is the hole and how big is it?
 
What is the threaded hole in? What sizes are close? Would it be easier to re tap it?

Lots of paste wax worked in the hole first, then wiped out and let dry... apply some epoxy to a clean under size screw and push it in the hole... let it sit for a day... unscrew - it may work.
 
What about softer plastic rod. Sand it down that it just threads in and threads cuts into it.

Like Tiriaq, I use a hardwood dowel to get the thread pitch and a guess at the diameter. I like guntech's suggestion of epoxy plus a small screw for a core and use a parting agent so that the expoxy casting comes out. If the screw is small, I would not try either method but hopefully find a try screw that fits

cheers mooncoon
 
Times-whatever on the wood dowel.

If you have a decent magnifier, use that while comparing the thread pitch to either known pitch threads or use a caliper to measure as many threads as possible and do a little math to figure pitch in Teeth per inch or directly, if Metric.

What is the threaded hole on? It can make a difference. Several manufacturers made proprietary thread pitches for their parts. Winchester, for example, used 14 and a half TPI threads on their High and Low wall 1885 actions, confirmed from factory drawings. Several other gun makers did the same, using threads that were not available a the hardware store. Old British Commonwealth products may contain British Associated (BA) threads, or Whitworth form, German stuff can have about anything, as a lot of the machine tools came out of the US too. And in antique stuff, an apprentice would have used his Master's Screw Plate, to make a screw plate for his own use. that plate was used to make his taps, as well as to thread the screws to fit that tapped hole, so it could be danm near anything...

Add to that, that gun makers have often used many finer than normal threads, for which most tap and die sets do not cover, like many of the scope screw threads, which tend to be higher TPI than the basic fine threads in a tap kit.
 
Any suggestions would be great.

The epoxy thing sounds like a good start - if it doesn't work, well ~ nothing is broke or damaged, on to the next. (I would file one side of your guide screw flat so it does not try to unscrew itself from the epoxy when you go to remove it)

Wood dowels work, wood dowels soaked in super thin CA glue (and allowed to cure) work better - if the hole is too small, copper or aluminum pin stock (from the hobby shop) might help you out


Gauges don't fit in small holes... I think that is his problem... no screw to measure...

I have a couple cheap-ee gauge sets just for that, grid the back off the gauge till it fits the hole. (though admittedly, this does not work so well on holes around the 2mm mark - usually wind up bending the gauge)
 
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need way more info, what diameter is the hole, blind or thro hole, what is it on and age of the item, if a old English likely a BA if small or then a BSW or BSF, European is typically metric though some had propriety threads

if the diameter allows for it I use a wooden strip with a chunk of bees wax on the side, put it in the hole and move to one side to form the wax if the hole is small even a tooth pick could work
 
Hi Everybody and thanks

I had tried the hardwood thing and it did not seem definite enough to go by. I may try again.

The threaded hole is on a piloted chamber reamer I picked up at at estate sale on a impulse, hoping to make it work. It is not marked as to make although the spud for the pilot seems standard. A pilot reamed at .220 would have 0002 thou clearance.

I am sure that the screw holding the pilot on is a #4 screw. When I bought the reamer I was assuming a 4-40 screw but that will not screw in . I happened to have some kicking around. I am now thinking maybe 4-48 . A 3/32 (.09375 thou ) ( I do not have a #42 at the moment )drill bit is a somewhat sliding fit so that seems right.



thou
 
... and the make of the reamer is ...? oops I just read unknown...

and if it is your only removable piloted reamer you can't try one of them...
 
I have a a threaded hole that I cannot determine the pitch size. None of my screws and taps fit. Has anyone tried casting a epoxy " screw " to do this.

I was thinking of a small screw in the middle to be able to withdraw it after.

Any suggestions would be great.

A thread pitch gauge?

Proper tool for the job and all.
 
A thread pitch gauge?

Proper tool for the job and all.

Is there a thread pitch gauge that can be used on the internal thread of a no. 4 screw hole?

If the screw were at hand using a thread pitch gauge on the external threads would require magnification.

I have a Brownells screw kit, which has 4-40 and 4-48 screws in it.
OP - PM your mailing address and I'll send a couple next week.
 
I am sure that the screw holding the pilot on is a #4 screw. When I bought the reamer I was assuming a 4-40 screw but that will not screw in .
u

#4-40 used to be a common thread locally but when I tried to buy a new tap recently, they only had 4-36 taps. Slight chance that is the thread pitch

cheers mooncoon
 
#4-40 used to be a common thread locally but when I tried to buy a new tap recently, they only had 4-36 taps. Slight chance that is the thread pitch

cheers mooncoon

That's kinda odd as #4-40 is a really common thread size. Cannot recall ever actually encountering a 4-36!

The OP seems oddly unwilling to state the obvious, which is, what the hole is actually on, which might just be something that one or more guys a round here are actually aware of.
 
The OP seems oddly unwilling to state the obvious, which is, what the hole is actually on, which might just be something that one or more guys a round here are actually aware of.


Post #11
…The threaded hole is on a piloted chamber reamer I picked up at at estate sale on a impulse, hoping to make it work. It is not marked as to make although the spud for the pilot seems standard. A pilot reamed at .220 would have 0002 thou clearance.

I am sure that the screw holding the pilot on is a #4 screw. When I bought the reamer I was assuming a 4-40 screw but that will not screw in . I happened to have some kicking around. I am now thinking maybe 4-48 .…
 
I've worked with a LOT of epoxy in the past - Not at all sure putting epoxy into a screw hole is a great idea even with some mould release wax - if there's any irregularity in the threads - maybe a pit from rusting, or something, the epoxy may not hold together well enough to break free of the threads and un-screw - then you're soaking the thing in acetone or ultrasound until the epoxy dissolves and you can start again. ( not a gunsmith - I repair boats from time to time and that's epoxy and carbon-fibre, most of the time.)
 
measure the length of the threads and count the number of threads to calculate threads per inch, or its metric. what is the minor diameter?
 
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