Did I do something backwards?

MHouser

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Installed new scope w/ burris signature zee rings. Put +/- 10 inserts on the front ring and left the back ring with the regular insert. Installed such that front of scope is pointing down slightly (i.e. thinner insert (-10) on the bottom of front ring, thick (+10) on the top). This is supposed to be approximately equivalent to using a 10 moa rail, so I thought.

Note: I simply mounted the scope without zeroing it (i.e. I left the windage and elevation knobs pointing at 0 and 0 as set right out of the box).

Went to the 50 yard range and did a quick look through the bore and it looked like it would at least get me on the paper. Fired a shot expecting to see a hole somewhere around 5 inches high. Instead it was about 5 inches low.

Did I do something / some things wrong?
 
maybe im missing something, but if it is pointing down, would it not be low?


Installed new scope w/ burris signature zee rings. Put +/- 10 inserts on the front ring and left the back ring with the regular insert. Installed such that front of scope is pointing down slightly (i.e. thinner insert (-10) on the bottom of front ring, thick (+10) on the top). This is supposed to be approximately equivalent to using a 10 moa rail, so I thought.

Note: I simply mounted the scope without zeroing it (i.e. I left the windage and elevation knobs pointing at 0 and 0 as set right out of the box).

Went to the 50 yard range and did a quick look through the bore and it looked like it would at least get me on the paper. Fired a shot expecting to see a hole somewhere around 5 inches high. Instead it was about 5 inches low.

Did I do something / some things wrong?
 
Nope, if the scope is pointing down, relative to the bore, the bullet hole will be above where the crosshairs looked.

To the OP: even tho you just pulled the scope out of the box, are you sure that the reticle was optically centred?
 
Front of scope is pointing down which means barrel is pointing up. It should be shooting high shouldn't it?

Did you bother turning the vertical adjustment to the maximum setting both up and down to see if the adjustment is really at the mid point?
 
Yes, when the dial indicates 0, for both windage and elevation, it is in the exact middle of the adjustment range.

Did you bother turning the vertical adjustment to the maximum setting both up and down to see if the adjustment is really at the mid point?
 
Not to undermine MHousers comments , but it is best to check to make sure you are in the middle, but this depends on the type of scope and if the knobs may have not been set to center, it does happen. Turn till it stops, then count the clicks in the reserve direction till it stops again, set at half of the clicks to center.


Yes, when the dial indicates 0, for both windage and elevation, it is in the exact middle of the adjustment range.
 
I will try optically centering the scope tomorrow and see where the dials end up to accomplish this. My guess is that when the scope is optically centered the elevation will be about 5-10 moa toward the up direction.

This would not be good as the whole point of buying the scope was to shoot long range and if 5-10 moa of adjustment are gone right out of the box I'm going to need to do something with the base or put in more inserts.

Nope, if the scope is pointing down, relative to the bore, the bullet hole will be above where the crosshairs looked.

To the OP: even tho you just pulled the scope out of the box, are you sure that the reticle was optically centred?
 
It's a Sightron SIII 10-50x60 scope. It has 50 moa of total elevation adjustment. The dials where both centered and indicated "0" and yes I dialed it to the max. in both directions and "0" means "0". It was in the middle of the full adjustment range.

Not to undermine MHousers comments , but it is best to check to make sure you are in the middle, but this depends on the type of scope and if the knobs may have not been set to center, it does happen.
 
Most likely will need to use inserts on the rear and front of those rings for maximum effectiveness, OR go to a 20MOA base. If you use the +/- .020" in the front and rear it will help, but with only 50 MOA in your scope, I think this may be borderline on making it to 1000 yards within the adjustment if that is your goal. Depending on distance and what you are shooting, you may need inserts and a 20MOA base.
 
My problem is that I can't put any more inserts in to help with this problem as the front bell of my scope doesn't have much room left above the barrel.

Most likely will need to use inserts on the rear and front of those rings for maximum effectiveness, OR go to a 20MOA base. If you use the +/- .020" in the front and rear it will help, but with only 50 MOA in your scope, I think this may be borderline on making it to 1000 yards within the adjustment if that is your goal.
 
I just bought these rings from Jerry. I was thinking more like sending the scope back and getting it fixed but this is all speculation until I check the scope out tomorrow and see what's what when I optically center it.

Unfortunately, you may be needing some more gear then if you are stuck where you are.

Maybe send Jerry at Mystic and email to see if he has a set a rings and a base for ya.
 
Not to undermine MHousers comments , but it is best to check to make sure you are in the middle, but this depends on the type of scope and if the knobs may have not been set to center, it does happen. Turn till it stops, then count the clicks in the reserve direction till it stops again, set at half of the clicks to center.

Your way works well, I prefer to use a mirror or to spin the scope in the rings, this makes-up for any possible manufacturing tolerances.
 
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