Diemaco SA20 Staked buffer tube

If you don't want to put any stress on your lower and willing to scrap the nut and end plate I would drill the dimples to clear the material. Or use a dremel with a cutting disc to clear it.
 
I would grind a punch to fit, so that the staking could be tapped back to where it originated, and then use a wrench which engaged the spanner holes to unscrew the nut.
 
Simply buy a proper wrench from a gunshop or online. Wrap a single thickness of electrical tape to protect the nuts finish, and with the lower secured with lots of padding in a vice or in a armorers fixture, back of the nut. I have done this many times, most recently with my own CC SA15.7 and 20 without any problems. There will be a bit of resistance initially as the metal stake gets torn off the backing plate but it works without issue.
 
Shelldrake said:
A carbine stock wrench is the one to use,, not to be confused with a castle nut wrench.
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Got a pic of the difference?
Never mind.... Lol figured it out. A stock wrench will work on both (DPMS tool for example) while a castle nut wrench is just for castle nuts....
 
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CdnCombatMedic said:
That rifle uses a castle nut. Take a look at the pics. I think your confused between the fixed stock model.
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The C7A2 and C8A3 do not use a castle nut. The CF does not use them and never has. The SA's and the C8's use the old style CAR15 style nut because they do not have any sharp edges like the castle nut.

ht tp://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/stock-tools/ar-15-m16-m4-buttstock-tool-prod21254.aspx

There are a number of tools for this specific nut. If the receiver is secured correctly and the correct tools are used it is actually quite easy to remove.
 
Castle nut wrench.... So you can see why it won't work.
TOOL0904.jpg
 
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