Different Primers

littleshooter

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Hi There

I have just started reloading, I have a question about Primers. I have load several loads with a few different calibres following the manuals and published information to the tee. I am doing a load up now for my 3006. The load calls for CCI 250 (LR) Primers to be used. Can anyone tell me if I can change to a different name brand primer (example a Fed (LR)or Winchester (LR)) Is there a major diffences between Manufactures? I know they make Large Rifle Primers in Regular and Magnuim but that is all I know.....Can anyone educate me... Thanks for your help!!!!
 
There will be a difference, though very minor, between primers from different manufacturers. It's a theoretical difference, really. You can safely use primers from any manufacturer interchangeably.

If you were loading competition-grade precision rifle rounds, any variation in components would be worth noting, but most shooters wouldn't notice the difference. From experience, I can safely say that ambient temperature change affects my output much more than primer choice (i.e. rounds that shoot perfectly in the winter may run a bit too hot in the summer).

Regarding regular vs. magnum primers, the debate is ongoing. Some argue magnum primers burn hotter and could make pressures spike when loaded instead of regular primers, others will say the difference is negligeable.

My advice to any new handloader is to start in the safe zone and experiment, safely, in controlled circumstances. You'll then be able to come to your own conclusions regarding the many different aspects of the grand hobby that is handloading ;).
 
Manufacturing standards are just that, standards.

They have a plus or minus measurement or rating that they all try to work within.

Powder and primers can and often do have minor differences from lot to lot. This is only to be expected. For one thing, the components used in their manufacture might come from different locations and use different though extremely similar combinations.

None of the minor differences will be dangerous until the hand loader starts to push the maximum limits of the components.

The thing is, the differences may be enough to change point of impact of the projectiles you are blasting down range.

That's why I suggest to newbies to buy their components in matching lots. Instead of buying one pound of powder, buy a keg of 8 pounds. Instead of one packet of 100 primers, buy a sleeve of 1000. Same goes for bullets, although in recent years, bullet manufacturers have been able to keep their dimensions and weights extremely consistent.

I understand, newbies often have to scrimp and save to get enough money together to assemble 100 cartridges. You have to do what your budget allows. Just remember, when you get different lots, sometimes they will and do react slightly differently.

One little thing I have done, is to pick up partial cans of powder with the same designation and mix it all together, until I have 5+ pounds. That gives me a usable quantity for several hundred cartridges if it is rifle powder or more than a thousand pistol cartridges. This is a safe practice and I have done it for years. I shoot enough to make it worthwhile. The last batch of 10 pounds, cost me less than $100. The blended cans were very consistent in the loads developed with them.

Primers on the other hand are a whole different ball game.

BTW, I don't believe in saving components for practice rounds or sighting rounds. If it isn't good enough to hunt with or shoot tight groups, there isn't any sense in wearing out the leades on a decent rifle with them. I will usually sell them off as partial boxes at gun shows.
 
Federal primers are made from a softer metal and it is recommend that they not be used in a semi with a free float firing pin ie. a norinco m305 etc
 
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