Dillion 550

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Hi fellas,

I have a 550 and have been loading 9mm and .45 for a few years now
and have recently acquired a .357 Mag and want to do the same.
I have a couple questions for those that are more familiar with the Dillion's.

What she'll plate do I need for .357 ?
Do I need Dillion dies or can other brand dies be used in the 550 ?
(I have a carbide set of Lee's from awhile back)

I'm using Titegroup so if anyone wants to comment on how good, bad, or otherwise that
powder is for .357, please do and if you've found something different that works for you,
mention that as well.

Thx. much
 
Shell plate #2.. 'same for .38spl

'Best to get the complete caliber conv. kit... #20132
You'll need the appropriat powder funnel and shell plate "buttons"... All part of the kit
Any standard threaded dies will work
 
Great answers guys, Thx. very much.

My plan is for .125gr bullets at about the half way mark.
When I want full house rounds I have factory loads to use.

667..,
Once I have the shell plate and buttons, the powder funnel and powder
feed mechanism will work with the dies I have ?
Thx. a lot for that part number btw.
 
When purchasing the conversion kit, don't forget to get another toolhead to keep dedicated to the dies, ...and a small powder charge bar as well to leave set for your Titegroup charge.

Titegroup? As already stated good for reduced loads. I consider it the cleanest powders I have ever used in my pistols...I'm like the Red Hot Sauce lady, I use that $hit in everything.
 
Phone Dillon. Their customer service is top notch, they actually make the stuff, know what they are talking about, and will not B.S. you into buying something you do not need, but won't suggest skipping a component that might make life simpler. I went the tool head, measure, dies route for each caliber, because I found if I didn't, then I put off changing calibers until I needed to. Hence I was loading the day or two before a match, when I should have been washing a car or checking and re-checking that my range bag was tiddly.

Still have to change primer feed for large and small privers between .45 and .357, but that is pretty simple.
 
Ok good stuff here guys
Thx. again to those that chimed in.

I have a tool head from from my .45 set-up that I will steal
as I don't own a .45 anymore...

Is the nominal diameter for .38/.357, .358" or is it actually .357" ?
I've seen both and want to make sure I don't buy the wrong bullets.
9mm I know is just a blonde one under this size and should not be confused
with this calibre.
 
9mm jacketed is .356 and 38/357 can be .357 or .358 in jacketed.

cast bullets are generally 1 or 2 thou oversized.
 
There's simply no reason to buy factory at all if you're reloading anyway.

Part of the fun for me with my full house magnums is the big fireball out the muzzle and flame wings out the sides on the revolvers. So I love H110/W296. But 2400 does a great job of lighting up the night as well.

For mid power loads I use Tightgroup since I've got lots around for my other loading. It's become my "Go To" powder for the relatively clean burning and temperature stability.

Watch your minimum load if you go with H110 or W296, which is the same powder under a different name. These need a much bigger minimum load to ensure a proper burn. So there's no light loads with these powders. It's nearly pedal to the metal and there's FULL HOUSE PEDAL TO THE METAL. Nothing lighter.
 
I use CamPro 124gr FMJTN with 4.9gr W231 at OAL 1.455 for 38 spl in our PC 627 x8. Compete in ICORE. Used Titegroup and Clay till I run out.
 
Now, just to confirm so I don't set myself up for dissapointment
but, a Dillon powder funnel from a 550 conv. kit for .38/.357 will
work with the Lee carbide dies I already have, yes ?

I read that it would however, I want to DBL check on this.

Also, where is a good place to buy bullets(125gr. FMJ) ?
I was hoping for local but that isn't panning out..

Thx. much fellas
 
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