Dillon 1050 Guru's - Please Check My List

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JayCarver

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So I'm considering picking up a 1050 to do 9mm and 223.

Can you check over my list to see if there is anything that I missed that I will need and if there's any "nice to haves" that you would add. I know I already have a bunch of stuff I don't really need on the list.

Thanks


 
Buy an rf-100 primer tube filler instead of pickup tubes. Its expensive but a most wonderful tool.

Also browse around on uniqetek for their dillon accessories, some nice stuff there.
 
That seems like a good starting point. Be careful with the 1050 when you are starting out as you can make tons of really good ammo or tons of junk ammo. You need headspace gauges with the 1050 for 223. Get a dillon one for setting headspace and an egw for case checking.

Go to Brafasco and order a 100 piece box of the bolts for the casefeed plunger. You will have the to look up the dimensions. I have a forcht auto drive on mine and they can last anywhere from 10 to 10k before they start to get run out and begin to make noise.

Spare decapping pins and rods are essential.
 
Scar270 said:
Buy an rf-100 primer tube filler instead of pickup tubes. Its expensive but a most wonderful tool.

Also browse around on uniqetek for their dillon accessories, some nice stuff there.
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Thanks, I'm currently using the PAL filler which works great, I have 5 small primer tubers so another 5 and I should be good to go.

silverfoxdj said:
Just curious are you going into high volume production with it?
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Yes, I have a 550 that I've been using for about 6 years or more, I'm loading 7 calibers on it right now and it would be suffenceint but lately I've been shooting a lot more 9mm and 223 so I've been considering adding a 1050 to the bench.

herpinator45 said:
That seems like a good starting point. Be careful with the 1050 when you are starting out as you can make tons of really good ammo or tons of junk ammo. You need headspace gauges with the 1050 for 223. Get a dillon one for setting headspace and an egw for case checking.

Go to Brafasco and order a 100 piece box of the bolts for the casefeed plunger. You will have the to look up the dimensions. I have a forcht auto drive on mine and they can last anywhere from 10 to 10k before they start to get run out and begin to make noise.

Spare decapping pins and rods are essential.
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Thanks for the tips, I have the dillon casegauge, just curious why the egw also?

Thanks for the tip on the casefeed bolts.
 
The dillon case gage is set the max dimensions. The EGW is set to the minimum dimensions, its makes a better chamber checker when setting up your dies. It also ensures you won't get a false positive when setting up your dies for thinking you have bumped the shoulder back, but you haven't sized far enough down to base resize. In that case you would get an almost acceptable reading from the dillon, but the egw would still reject it.

Spend the money on the carbide dies also for 223. They will smooth things out.
 
I'd think the caliber conversion kit for 223 would include the shell plate.

Is there a powder measure for the second tool head in that order?
Maybe a second powder sensor for it too?

Make your order over the phone with one of Dillon's experts.
They'll ensure you don't buy something that will need another component.

One more vote for the primer tube filler too.

Welcome to the club! We don't give out the secret 1050 handshake until you've actually got it, but you may commence looking down on any red press immediately LOL.
 
I'm in the same place as Jay, and have heard 2 different stories for 1050 parts. Some people tell me that the powder check sensor on the tool head is essential, and other people say to save that spot for a Bulletfeeder. Have people tried it both ways?
 
I have got mine from Rechargement Pheonix, but shipping may kill you, he's in Quebec. But was the best price at 1995$ and took only 3 weeks to get.

I have to install my powder check but need a seater/ crimp die, which one are you guys using?
 
redrams9 said:
I'm in the same place as Jay, and have heard 2 different stories for 1050 parts. Some people tell me that the powder check sensor on the tool head is essential, and other people say to save that spot for a Bulletfeeder. Have people tried it both ways?
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Given the choice - get the bullet feeder - it will give you sustained 2200 rounds per hour output.

But you can have your cake and eat it too if you get a bullet seat / crimp combo die from Lee or RCBS and save a station.

Both my 1050s have bullet feeders; the manual one doesn't have a powder check because I look in the case as I load.
The motorized one has a powder check wired to the motor as a lockout so I can let it run unattended.

Basille said:
I have to install my powder check but need a seater/ crimp die, which one are you guys using?
Click to expand...
I've got a lee one - works great.
 
order the 1050 in .223 with carbide dies its the cheapest way to get the best dies for 223, definatly get lots of extra decapping pins, check with Brian Enos.com they give a free $50 bullet tray with order and free shipping in the usa.
 
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