Dillon 650 and ultrasonic cleaning

kb007

kb007

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I'm scratching my head a little on the process to reload pistol (and I guess it applies to rifle as well) using my Dillon 650. Up to now I have been using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean de-capped brass (using a single stage RCBS Supreme).

Given the 650 can de-cap as part of the process, are you cleaning your pistol brass with the spent primers still in the case - I tied that once and the cleaning solution got super dirty from all the spent primers?? Is it as simple as lube 'em, drop in case feeder, let the machine de-cap/size and go through the other stations?

For rifle (.223 and 30-06) and ultrasonic, when do you guys de-cap if you're making rifle on a 650? Kinda want the cases de-capped and cleaned before checking length (and sizing if necessary), no? Does that mean de-cap with the dillon first then clean, size and back into the case feeder? If I do that, it would seem that I need to take the other die out, don't want to crimp an empty case? Or de-cap on the RCBS (which isn't horrible, just more labour than I was expecting).

I'vedone some youtube and forum searches, but most start off with, "here's my brass".

TIA
 
Use a decapping die on the brass first and then clean them. Once clean run them through the 650. You don't need lube if you have carbide dies by the way. It won't hurt them if you use it but there is no need.
 
Really - decap separately then clean?? Would it be the same if I was using a tumbler? or could I tumble with the primers still in then just run them thru the 650?? I'll buy a tumbler if that's the route to go.

Staring at a box of >2000 .40SW cases and thinking I'm gonna have to manually de-cap each one is, uhm, not my idea of a fun time ;)
 
Most people I know who reload pistol on a progressive don't clean the primer pockets. They clean the brass with spent primers in and then run them through the press.
 
Makes no sense to decap first on a Dillon. I do look at the odd one of my sonic cleaned 9mm after decaping in my Dillon before the primer is inserted and they look fine to me and never had a problem. Of course this not for precision or bullseye loads.
 
Unless you can ensure the primer pocket is dry, then I would switch to dry media. My only reason for saying to decap first is incase water is trapped in the old primer and when you decap/resize in your 650 you could get water on your press and water in your new primers.

If you have a case feeder then feeding them through for decapping only won't be a big deal.
 
Hmm, so maybe I will try cleaning - ultrasonic - with the primer still in, then leaving them to dry for a few days before running them thru the Dillon.

Thanks guys
 
I have a second press besides the 650 that I de-prime with and then use the ultrasonic. I also have a tumbler and end up using it more because I don't have to decap to clean brass. I like the ultrasonic for cleaning gun parts, but don't use the ultrasonic solution to do this, use vinegar and water with dish soap.
 
Since I use ultrasonic, I run batches of brass so that they can dry for about 1 week and have plenty dry ones to use inbetween. Once you get the phasing or rhytm its no big deal to let it dry a week or more.
 
As you have a case feeder, why not spent $15 on a decapping die?
Run the brass through with just the decapping die (it does no resizing) and then clean it.
Then run your sparkly new looking brass through to resize, prime and load.
Running through 2000 just decapping surely couldn't take that much time?
 
Yeah - I was thinking that, prolly end up getting a tool head just for the de-capping die - I want to be able to set all the dies on the toolhead and forget it so I can simply swap toolhead assemblies (and the other bits and pieces) when I swap calibers).
 
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