So I've been using a single stage rcbs for 9mm got about 1000 rounds done with it. The batch work of prepping cases is awful time consuming and limiting myself to 300 rounds or so of reloads at the range is ok but not great. I truly enjoy reloading. Although shooting cheap factory reloads extend my range time. It's not as satisfying or as soft and accurate. I have been tossing around the idea of a progressive press. I have full intentions of 1000+ rounds a month. Although there are multiple progressive presses out there the 650 seems like a great machine. It can last me a lifetime if I go full blown shoot every other day. And worst case should hold decent resale value if I lose time to shoot and have to part with it(not likely) but here's my concern I see these presses and they show them all decked out. I imagine it's not really necessary. If I find one at a fair price just with cal conversion for 9mm all I should need is dies? Are they still a dream to use just like this? Or is there lots left to be desired? If someone runs one as is and could give some info that would be great.
Dillon 650 for 9mm what's needed
- Thread starter mctrigger
- Start date
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- Toon Town, Sk
I am interested as well.
To add another question
Do you have to run Dillon dies as well?
To add another question
Do you have to run Dillon dies as well?
If all you are going to load is 9mm then a square deal would be the way to go. But if you are set on a 650 then get a case feeder with it cause loading on a 650 without one sucks. I've loaded on a friends 650 with and without a case feeder and without one you are using both hands to feed cases and bullets plus having to run the handle.
Square deal uses Dillon dies only and 650 can use any.
Square deal uses Dillon dies only and 650 can use any.
You would only need dies to have a complete setup. You can use any dies or combinations of dies. On my 650 (9mm), I use a dillon sizing and de-priming die, a lee bullet seat and tapered crimp die (single die). That way I can run a low powder sensor to ensure I have powder in all of my rounds. I have a Mr. Bullet feeder installed on mine and can do around 800 or higher rounds an hour. If you are only going to load 1000 rounds a month, I might suggest a Dillon 550. You can do 400 rounds an hour on that press. You can also add a case feeder to the 550. I load a lot of different rifle and pistol calibers on my 650 machine as well.
I have friends that love the Lee 1000, as well as the Hornady progressive, so there are other options out there. The Dillon is more expensive, but they have pretty good warranty.
I have friends that love the Lee 1000, as well as the Hornady progressive, so there are other options out there. The Dillon is more expensive, but they have pretty good warranty.
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i recently purchased a 650. i bought the dillon 9mm dies with it but you could use any brand with the 650 (only the Square Deal B uses different threading). i also got the case feeder which is not necessary but like others have stated its a huge pain in the butt without it. the roller handle is also a good upgrade as its a lot more comfortable to use than the one that comes with the press.
As far as I know, all that's needed to run a Dillon press is a big bucket of cash 
More seriously, a question for those who own one: what's involved in switching calibres? Can I switch between, say, 9mm and 223? What's needed to do that? And how long does the changeover take?
I'll probably never own anything Dillon other than their ammo boxes, but I'm curious in a vaguely envious way.
More seriously, a question for those who own one: what's involved in switching calibres? Can I switch between, say, 9mm and 223? What's needed to do that? And how long does the changeover take?
I'll probably never own anything Dillon other than their ammo boxes, but I'm curious in a vaguely envious way.
As far as I know, all that's needed to run a Dillon press is a big bucket of cash
More seriously, a question for those who own one: what's involved in switching calibres? Can I switch between, say, 9mm and 223? What's needed to do that? And how long does the changeover take?
I'll probably never own anything Dillon other than their ammo boxes, but I'm curious in a vaguely envious way.
A caliber conversion kit will have some but not all that you need to do different calibers conveniently. You will also need a toolhead and powder thrower, and powder die. Also a case feed plate for the case feeder (this press is useless without a case feeder). Once the tool heads are set up with the dies of your choosing switching between calibers takes about 10 minutes, longer if you are switching primer sizes. You are looking in the ballpark of 2-300 dollars per caliber depending on the dies you choose but man can this press crank em out.
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- Southern Ontario
I've had mine for about 4 months now and have probably done 20k bullets. I hadn't reloaded previously.
I can go from 9 to 45 to 38 to 357 (yes, I have each on their own head...no having to re-adjust my dies) to 223 in 5 minutes. I have a head set up for each caliber. I have separate primer setups (lrg/sm) so that adds a minute and a half to the switch-over.
Buy the head "kit", saves $ over getting the parts separately. Case feeder is a must have, as are the different feeder plates depending on caliber.
I can go from 9 to 45 to 38 to 357 (yes, I have each on their own head...no having to re-adjust my dies) to 223 in 5 minutes. I have a head set up for each caliber. I have separate primer setups (lrg/sm) so that adds a minute and a half to the switch-over.
Buy the head "kit", saves $ over getting the parts separately. Case feeder is a must have, as are the different feeder plates depending on caliber.
I've used a 650 for 9mm and 223 for the past two years.
I would say a case feeder is mandatory. If you don't want a case feeder, just get a square deal and save a lot of money. If you don't want a case feeder and want to reload some rifle, then just get a 550. I don't know if the Mr. Bulletfeeder works on the 550, which is why I got a 650 to begin with.
As for dies, you can use whatever dies you want.. but the problem with Lee / RCBS dies is that the die sits at the very bleeding edge of the last thread to stay on the press. I ran my press like this for about a year and switched to the Dillon dies.. they're only $100. If you already have dies, then use them. If you're buying dies, get the Dillon.
I have the mr. bullet feeder and a lot of other bells and whistles - I considered it an investment.
I would recommend the aluminium roller handle if you want to spend any amount of time at the press. The strong mount is good too, depending on your bench.
I bought a lot of things that are useless, like the primer exit tube thing and extra lights and such. I just mounted an office swing arm light that cost $15 from walmart and it works way better (and doesn't use batteries).
The 650 at the start has a problem with the shell plate sticking, or skipping. It causes powder to come out the top of the cases. This is fixed by either changing a detent ball, or using a less powerful spring on the detent ball (under the shell plate). There is a roller bearing kit you can buy, but don't.. it just gums up and makes things far worse (like cracking your index ring)
If your press shell plate is 'too tight' your index ring will break. It's just a plastic ring under the presses body that advances the shell plate. It's pretty common, and it's a PITA to take apart the first time, but it's a real good time to clean your press & reoil/lube. I've broken the ring twice now, and have about three spare rings and an install guide for mine (all warranty from Dillon).
There is a good youtube video about proper lubrication of the press, only use 10w (or whatever) motor oil and bearing grease where it specifies.
I use the powder check die, but it's not necessary. If you're careful about replacing the powder hopper arm after doing some powder drop checks, you would be fine.
So yeah, press, case feeder, aluminium roller arm, strong mount and dies (if you don't already have them) is pretty much what i'd say to get at the start.
I would say a case feeder is mandatory. If you don't want a case feeder, just get a square deal and save a lot of money. If you don't want a case feeder and want to reload some rifle, then just get a 550. I don't know if the Mr. Bulletfeeder works on the 550, which is why I got a 650 to begin with.
As for dies, you can use whatever dies you want.. but the problem with Lee / RCBS dies is that the die sits at the very bleeding edge of the last thread to stay on the press. I ran my press like this for about a year and switched to the Dillon dies.. they're only $100. If you already have dies, then use them. If you're buying dies, get the Dillon.
I have the mr. bullet feeder and a lot of other bells and whistles - I considered it an investment.
I would recommend the aluminium roller handle if you want to spend any amount of time at the press. The strong mount is good too, depending on your bench.
I bought a lot of things that are useless, like the primer exit tube thing and extra lights and such. I just mounted an office swing arm light that cost $15 from walmart and it works way better (and doesn't use batteries).
The 650 at the start has a problem with the shell plate sticking, or skipping. It causes powder to come out the top of the cases. This is fixed by either changing a detent ball, or using a less powerful spring on the detent ball (under the shell plate). There is a roller bearing kit you can buy, but don't.. it just gums up and makes things far worse (like cracking your index ring)
If your press shell plate is 'too tight' your index ring will break. It's just a plastic ring under the presses body that advances the shell plate. It's pretty common, and it's a PITA to take apart the first time, but it's a real good time to clean your press & reoil/lube. I've broken the ring twice now, and have about three spare rings and an install guide for mine (all warranty from Dillon).
There is a good youtube video about proper lubrication of the press, only use 10w (or whatever) motor oil and bearing grease where it specifies.
I use the powder check die, but it's not necessary. If you're careful about replacing the powder hopper arm after doing some powder drop checks, you would be fine.
So yeah, press, case feeder, aluminium roller arm, strong mount and dies (if you don't already have them) is pretty much what i'd say to get at the start.
get a case feeder. you don't need one to start, but you will want one before you hit 100 rounds....
don't need to use dillon dies, but would suggest doing so.
powder check is optional, nice to have. you will want to check EVERY case for powder as your placing projectile.
lots of people put lights on their press to aid with visual powder checks. Personally i use a battery powered LED book reading clamp on light - cheap and easy to get on/off the press
don't need to use dillon dies, but would suggest doing so.
powder check is optional, nice to have. you will want to check EVERY case for powder as your placing projectile.
lots of people put lights on their press to aid with visual powder checks. Personally i use a battery powered LED book reading clamp on light - cheap and easy to get on/off the press
and don't forget to consider case prep into your plans
wet SS tumbling is best, but a little more time intensive and much more expensive for the tumbler unless you can find a good deal.
with wet tumbled cases I find easier to load and thus more consistent.
nothing wrong with dry tumbling, but consider the dust (which you may be breathing in) and inside the case is not as clean but works just fine
personally I also use case lube - can make your own mix with lanolin and isopropyl alcohol at a fraction of the price.
wet SS tumbling is best, but a little more time intensive and much more expensive for the tumbler unless you can find a good deal.
with wet tumbled cases I find easier to load and thus more consistent.
nothing wrong with dry tumbling, but consider the dust (which you may be breathing in) and inside the case is not as clean but works just fine
personally I also use case lube - can make your own mix with lanolin and isopropyl alcohol at a fraction of the price.
Put the locking ring under the tool head, problem solved.
To the OP:
Here's my opinion, which I've provided many times before and I'm sticking with it!
The press is only one aspect of reloading. Plan to spend 1K-2K when first getting started. Dies, scale, chronograph, table, tumbler, separator, media, calipers etc. It's death by a thousand cuts. The good news is that the press should pay for itself within the first 2 years.
Great info everyone! I really appreciate the input. Sounds like case feeder is what really makes it what it is and that's good to know. fortunately I have everything else that is needed I'll be able to make my rcbs dies work. I do have a ss tumbler. Homemade but she works unreal. A deccaper maybe is all, put it on the single stage and get my primer pockets clean with the tumbler. I have a feeling that a Dillion is going to be bought. Haha.
