Dillon XL 650

It's not clear in the video...but you can't seat on the Mr Bullet Feeder...so that only leaves one alternative...

There are dies available that seat and crimp at the same time. Hornandy and RCBS make them for sure, I'm pretty sure Lee does as well. I've never seen one from Dillon...

headspace said:
You are correct, was just wondering if someone had overcome that. Not sure how the guy in the the link provided by Quigly is seating and crimping in one step (Which dies is he using?) as I'm using RCBS and Dillion dies (separate stations for seating and crimping).
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Quigley said:
There are dies available that seat and crimp at the same time. Hornandy and RCBS make them for sure, I'm pretty sure Lee does as well. I've never seen one from Dillon...
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:rolleyes: Duh, I've been doing it right for so long I forgot we used to do it wrong.:cool:

Dillon split the seat/crimp die into two seperate dies. With the older dies, it was a little like rubbing your belly and patting your head to adjust the crimp and seating depth.
 
Canuck223 said:
Dillon split the seat/crimp die into two seperate dies. With the older dies, it was a little like rubbing your belly and patting your head to adjust the crimp and seating depth.
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That's a great analogy.
I use the Lee Seat / Crimp on my motorized 1050 so I can keep the powder checker station; but getting the right balance is tricky. I found that the dillon 40 cal dies actually slightly undersize the case so that when the bullet is actually seated, it forces its way into the case, almost giving it a full bullet crimp. I think 9mm being tapered would be tougher to make it work.
 
Talked to Dillon today, they told me that their Super 1050 is really designed for technically inclined users, you have to be mechanically gifted to set it up, use it and fix little kinks....that's what they said. If that's the way it is, I guess, it's the XL 650 for me....

By the way, they did not recommend using CCI and Federal primers in the 650, and suggested two brands - Winchester and some other name, I forget. They said CCI and Federal have a tendency to explode in the machine (????) more often and crimp / overturn more often than the two others. Any truth to that? I use nothing but Federal primers in my 550 and never had a single problem except for occassional crushing due to military crimped brass.
 
I use CCI with my 650 and no probs. I crushed a whole bunch in the past (I mentioned that in this thread). I was being a noob. Some were so badly crushed, I actually wondered why they didn't detonate.

CCI is perfectly fine so I don't know why they said no CCI. that is all I use.. (small & large pistol, magnum large pistol and small rifle). However, there is a brand that we shouldn't use. I don't remember which one. Since I have Winchester, it's probably Federal but need someone to confirm this one.

Honestly, if you know how to change brakes on your car or know how to fix things around the house, 1050 is fine for you. I would go for one or two if I have deeper pockets, but I settled for 650. I don't need that much of a machine, but it would be sweet to have one. One thing about the 1050 and I think owners have said so, it's crazy long to swap calibers. Everyone who never reloaded before gets recommended to start with single stage. I scrapped that idea. I went straight for the 650.

Canuck223 can probably tell you how long. I'm curious myself. I think rule of thumb is load between 5000-10000rds before switching cailbers or it won't be worth your time. lol

You probably know about the swage. Canuck223 swears by it all the time. I would too if I had a 1050. I sure wish the 650 had that option. At least sell a part to fit into that hole for the primer seating thingy. I trim 223 brass and resize on the 650, it would be amazing if I can swage too. Seriously, it's a $5 dollar option that they can sell for $25. They will probably sell less 1050s.

Hmm... I'm curious no reloader with 650 has made one of these yet. I would be all over it if I know how to machine metal. :(
 
It is Federal primers that blow up in crimped brass. I have 2 550's, 1 with a casefeeder, and 1 I use as a sort of turret press.I bought a 650 when I had about 5000 9mm to load, and now I wouldn't be without it. I also bought a 1050 because i Have a couple thousand rounds of 223 with crimped primers and using the Dillon primer tool got to be a pain in the ass.
 
john777 said:
I use CCI with my 650 and no probs. I crushed a whole bunch in the past (I mentioned that in this thread). I was being a noob. Some were so badly crushed, I actually wondered why they didn't detonate.

CCI is perfectly fine so I don't know why they said no CCI. that is all I use.. (small & large pistol, magnum large pistol and small rifle). However, there is a brand that we shouldn't use. I don't remember which one. Since I have Winchester, it's probably Federal but need someone to confirm this one.

Honestly, if you know how to change brakes on your car or know how to fix things around the house, 1050 is fine for you. I would go for one or two if I have deeper pockets, but I settled for 650. I don't need that much of a machine, but it would be sweet to have one. One thing about the 1050 and I think owners have said so, it's crazy long to swap calibers. Everyone who never reloaded before gets recommended to start with single stage. I scrapped that idea. I went straight for the 650.

Canuck223 can probably tell you how long. I'm curious myself. I think rule of thumb is load between 5000-10000rds before switching cailbers or it won't be worth your time. lol

You probably know about the swage. Canuck223 swears by it all the time. I would too if I had a 1050. I sure wish the 650 had that option. At least sell a part to fit into that hole for the primer seating thingy. I trim 223 brass and resize on the 650, it would be amazing if I can swage too. Seriously, it's a $5 dollar option that they can sell for $25. They will probably sell less 1050s.

Hmm... I'm curious no reloader with 650 has made one of these yet. I would be all over it if I know how to machine metal. :(
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You can't build a swager into the 650 because it primes on the upstroke. The 1050 does all operations on the downstroke, so at the same time the swager is working the primer pocket, the toolhead has a backup rod supporting the case from the inside. Without that backup rob, you'd be underworking the brass or breaking shellplates and ripping rims off the cases.

A caliber conversion on the 1050 is only a 5-10 minute operation. If you are also switching primer sizes, add another 5 minutes. Most guys will take a bit longer since if you have the toolhead and shellplate off already, it's a great time to detail clean the press.

I use Federal primers almost to the exclusion of all others. Other brands may work better, but I haven't had any major issues.
 
Oh, I didn't think swaging would require that much force.

I thought it took much longer to change calibers on the 1050. I must have gotten that stupid idea from reading it somewhere and got stuck in my head. It looked complicated enough. That's good to know. If I ever upgrade, I'll go for the 1050. :)

Don't think that'll happen any time soon. I just don't shoot enough unless my range is 5 mins away from me. They're all 45 mins drive one way. :(
 
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