There are two basic types:
a) Original Swiss W&F diopter, in two mounting styles, see K type diopter manual:
http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/sights/manual/index.html
No longer made. I know Calgary Shooter Center had a few, but seem to be sold out just now.
The K type rear diopter clamps onto the thumb cutoff on right side of K31 receiver:
View through K type diopter:
This front sight comes with the diopter and just clamps onto front sight ears.
It uses Lyman 17A size front sight aperture blades inserts.
Iris adjustment is by 6 pre-dilled hole in the aperture disc that are rotated to change. See parts diagram, part #21:
The S type is mechanically the same, except for mounting on the other side of the receiver and needs the receiver to have the necessary milling.
Mostly used by Hämmerli in their commercial and P series K31s.
S type diopter:
Both K and S types W&F diopters need a special diameter and thread for the Iris.
Blade type replacement iris are available through Gehmann and Centra in this size.
Anschutz size on left, W&F threaded Gehman iris on right:
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b) The U.S.A. made Swiss Products Inc diopters
Have had three versions made to date.
Most recent and only current production is the P/S model which is good up to 1000 yds
Older models of their diopter were good until 600yds±. All of their K31 diopters clamp-on to the
thumb cutoff on right side of receiver. P/S model is accepted for used in official Swiss Military program shooting.
Type P/S diopter:
Iris was changed by me to an expensive multi-color filters and double polarizer Gehmann 568MC Iris
Original Iris
Sight adjustments are by where you want the shot to go, same as in a scope.
Uses standard Anschütz thread iris. Front sight uses M18 size apertures, one of which comes with the kit.
Swiss products front sight:
Item on left is Plastic Insert holder that screws into rear of S/P front sight.
This plastic holder is not included with kit. Not needed for the thick Slimline insert but may be needed for some of the thinner Anschutz or Gehmann plastic inserts.
Gehmann model 522 adjustable aperture mounted onto Swiss Products front sight:
Swiss Products Website:
http://www.swissproductsllc.com/
Trade-ex and Calgary Shooting Center usually keep one in stock.
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Sighting in a W&F diopter set:
See Notes at end for a Swiss Products( formerly called St. Marie) Diopter
Pre-sight in:
1) Make sure rifle is unloaded.
2) Install diopter set properly on to the rifle. Make sure all the diopter screws are tight.
3) Loosen both action screws and both barrel band screws.
4) Hold rifle vertically with its butt plate against the ground, grab barrel and push towards butt.
5) Tighten front action screw first, then tang screw. Some rifles are better if you back off tang screw slightly.
6) Tighten front barrel band. Barrel should be centered in stock. Leave slightly loose for most rifles.
7) Tighten sling barrel band only enough so that the spring detente can still be moved when you press on it.
Sight in:
1) Get into shooting position with unloaded rifle. Everything you will need to shoot should be within arms reach. Do not get up or move your elbows too much.
2) Find the best place for your cheek on the stock. You should be fairly close to the safety ring. I use my thumb as a spacer between the ring and my nose to get the same cheek position time after time. I of course lower my thumb before firing.
3) Center the front sight hood in rear sight. Should have equal amount of space all around the outside of the front side hood
4) Aim at target, center it in the middle of your front sight ring or on top of the front sight post with a slight gap between the top of the post and the bottom of the target.
5) You should always be focusing on the front sight, not the target.
6) Dry fire a couple times.
7) Move to the third smallest hole available on the rear diopter sight.
8 ) See how sharp the front post or aperture is.
9) Compare the sharpness of the front sight using smaller and larger rear diopter hole sizes. Look for the clearest possible setting for the light conditions you have that day.
10) Now you can load the rifle! I just saved you a lot of money in ammo.
11) Keep a sheet of paper and a pencil handy. Keep track of every shot.
12) First shot is a fouler. Write:"1- F", and its clock position.
13) Fire three more shots and write down their clock positions.
14) Estimate where the center of shots 2, 3 and 4 is and correct accordingly. Remember each click is 1/4 MOA.
15) Repeat from 13 until you are sighted in.
Notes: All of the following are more noticeable as the shooting distance increases.
1) Expect your point of impact to change during the course of the day as the sun changes it position relative to the target.
2) If you change aperture size after sight-in, you most likely will have re-sight it again.
3) Changes in cheek position WILL affect your sighting.
4) Changes in body positions WILL affect you sighting.
5) Do not mix ammo, I always try to use the same lot of ammo in a session, even with GP11.
W&F diopter adjustments, and most Germanic target sight are by where the shot was.
They have the word "bei" written on them which means BY, as in "by the left".
If you shooting high at 12 o'clock, correct by turning the knob in direct H, for High.
T= Low( remember: Stop, you LOW down Thief), T stands for Tief (low)
R= Right, L= Left.
St.Marie diopters are by where you want the shot to go.
Iris uses leaf type blades,
The problem MOST of the people I have helped with shooting a K31, or any other sizable rifle, have is flinching.
The best way to overcome it is by calling your shots. If you have no idea where you last shot went, then either your eyes were closed or the sights were moving too much from jerking the trigger. Should this happen to you( It does to EVERYONE now and then), dry-fire until you see the sights are stable during the firing process.
. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them and could give me some suggestions as to which ones to get and maybe explain how they work. I saw that trade ex has some but its 375$, has anyone every tried it? Is that a good price?
