Dip and wash brass cleaner

Gandhi said:
I have cleaned four .308 casings in a Lyman TS-700 Ultrasonic Cleaner. Fully submerged, the casings have been cleaned for a total of 180 seconds and subsequently rinsed under running water. The three of four primer pockets are completely spotless, with one primer pocket holding onto a small portion of residue. I have run a Q-Tip down inside the casing to the bottom of the casing and forcing it along the inside wall in order to wipe out any excess residue. The Q-Tip comes out with very little, or no, residue on the cotton.
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Sounds promising for sure. How clean is the inside of a case after simple submersion and rinse, no ultrasonic?
 
Jmiverson said:
Sounds promising for sure. How clean is the inside of a case after simple submersion and rinse, no ultrasonic?
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There is still remaining residue. Although, it is easily removed with a Q-Tip....assuming you would actually want to cotton swab all of your casings! Pffff! It seems this product is turning more into a good vibratory solution....rather than dip and wash! However, heavily tarnished brass cleans amazingly well!
 
Gandhi said:
I suppose the supplier would be into performing additional tests in their own lab in order to determine what concentrations of heavy metals would remain after cleaning.
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It's in the burnt primer residue...where else would it end up? Regardless of what the uninitiated beleive, cleaning and handling fired brass is extremely toxic. To avoid lead contamination, it's best to wear gloves before handling. Ultrasonic is probably the safest method as contamanints are caught in the water before geting air-borne.
 
Not to hijack, I just tried Simple Green in a moderate solution mixed with ratios on the back of the package. very suprised at the result as a gallon is only $14 and it reduces quite nicely with no harmful toxins. I got tired of using the old vinager solution. However, whatever solution I have ever used, if I was to rub like that on the outside of each case they would all have the same result.
 
legi0n said:
from the video I see the crud needs to be removed after the treatment (towel action).
this means the inside of the brass stays dirty.
I'll keep my tumbler.
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as well as the primer pockets.
As it stands now, I dump my brass into my SS tumbler barrel with some water, soap and citric acid, come back a few hours later and the brass is as clean as it can get...inside, outside and primer pockets. Don't see how you can top that.
I'm sure I would not want to manually wipe down a few hundred brass after every cleaning.
But as others have stated, it would likely make a good sonic solution for those that use that method.
 
Wired leader said:
as well as the primer pockets.
As it stands now, I dump my brass into my SS tumbler barrel with some water, soap and citric acid, come back a few hours later and the brass is as clean as it can get...inside, outside and primer pockets. Don't see how you can top that.
I'm sure I would not want to manually wipe down a few hundred brass after every cleaning.
But as others have stated, it would likely make a good sonic solution for those that use that method.
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The purpose of using the really dirty case was to simply showcase that the solution removes the tarnish. For fresh fired casings it's a qui k wash and rinse.
 
For me drying is not the issue.
With the dry vibratory tumblers, I hated the noise, dust and picking the media out of the flash holes. With the SS method, I to have to let my brass dry, but I put it on a towel and it dries on it's own...no work on my part.
I have a hanging lamp that I drop down to about a foot over the brass and it dries within an hour.
On occasion you will find a couple of pins stuck in a flash hole, but it does not happen often....even with smaller brass such as the 223
 
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