Dishwasher m14 warning.
- Thread starter 870supermag
- Start date
You did read the whole thread, right? And therefore noticed that several of us that have had, and continue to have, good success using this trick on several firearms with no, or very minimal ill effects.
WestIslandRifle
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- QUEBEKISTAN, Canada
did your buddy smoke 
when he decided to do this , SOME PEOPLE SHOULD NOY HAVE GUNS 
when he decided to do this , SOME PEOPLE SHOULD NOY HAVE GUNS 
Range Officer
Regular
- Location
- Sunny Okanagan
Sad.......just sad. Ok, sad AND funny!!!!
I used to work as a laboratory technician in oil, coal and nuclear power plants, so I have at least some experience in dealing with very hot, pressurized water and steam that is in contact with ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
One can see a very similar result to the above barreled action if you put an uncoated cast-iron skillet in a dishwasher and let it go through a complete cycle. The stainless-steel pots and pans come out looking great while that cast iron takes a corrosive beating.
But time-honored experience tells us that a cast-iron skillet can be washed with water in the sink and dried with a dish cloth without any ill effect whatsoever, so plain steel objects can indeed be washed with water. But what explains the discrepancy in results between dishwasher and sink?
Oxygen, temperature and pH are the answers. At least one, hopefully all three, must be contolled.
Since oxygen cannot be controlled inside a dishwasher, it would be good to control the other two.
My wife and I don't own a dishwasher, so I don't know if wash and rinse water temperature can be controlled. If they can't be set to warm, don't use a dishwasher. If they can be adjusted, raising pH will also help to reduce the rate of oxygen corrosion.
So, if you really do want to do this, set the temperature of both the wash and rinse water to only warm and use trisodium phosphate (TSP) as the detergent. TSP will help maintain a high pH.
Remove right after the rinse part of the cycle. Don't let the drying cycle start. After removing it from the washer, give it a final rinse with the garden hose. If you're picky or have particularly hard water, give it a final rise with demineralized water. Dry with a cloth and then blow out with pressurized air. Get it completely dry as fast as possible.
You probably could do a better, safer job using a warm-water pressure washer with, once again, trisodium phosphate as the detergent. The same as above for rinsing a drying.
Better still, if it's just grease you're trying to completely remove, don't use water at all. Instead, take it to a automotive repair place and use a parts washer station to hose it down with cleaner (which is usually stoddard solvent). When that's done, go outside and spray the whole thing down with an aerosol can of brake cleaner. Hold it vertically and start spraying at the top end and let the gathering liquid run down (wash down) the assembly into a pail. Slowly direct the spray downward, allowing the same runoff, until you reach the very bottom. The piece will dry almost immediately without any residue whatsoever.
When any of the above are completed, the piece will be vulnerable to corrosion, so, immediately after drying, the parts that are not going to be parkerized or blued or painted should, just like that cast iron skillet, be coated with whatever oil, grease, etc. that you feel appropriate.
One can see a very similar result to the above barreled action if you put an uncoated cast-iron skillet in a dishwasher and let it go through a complete cycle. The stainless-steel pots and pans come out looking great while that cast iron takes a corrosive beating.
But time-honored experience tells us that a cast-iron skillet can be washed with water in the sink and dried with a dish cloth without any ill effect whatsoever, so plain steel objects can indeed be washed with water. But what explains the discrepancy in results between dishwasher and sink?
Oxygen, temperature and pH are the answers. At least one, hopefully all three, must be contolled.
Since oxygen cannot be controlled inside a dishwasher, it would be good to control the other two.
My wife and I don't own a dishwasher, so I don't know if wash and rinse water temperature can be controlled. If they can't be set to warm, don't use a dishwasher. If they can be adjusted, raising pH will also help to reduce the rate of oxygen corrosion.
So, if you really do want to do this, set the temperature of both the wash and rinse water to only warm and use trisodium phosphate (TSP) as the detergent. TSP will help maintain a high pH.
Remove right after the rinse part of the cycle. Don't let the drying cycle start. After removing it from the washer, give it a final rinse with the garden hose. If you're picky or have particularly hard water, give it a final rise with demineralized water. Dry with a cloth and then blow out with pressurized air. Get it completely dry as fast as possible.
You probably could do a better, safer job using a warm-water pressure washer with, once again, trisodium phosphate as the detergent. The same as above for rinsing a drying.
Better still, if it's just grease you're trying to completely remove, don't use water at all. Instead, take it to a automotive repair place and use a parts washer station to hose it down with cleaner (which is usually stoddard solvent). When that's done, go outside and spray the whole thing down with an aerosol can of brake cleaner. Hold it vertically and start spraying at the top end and let the gathering liquid run down (wash down) the assembly into a pail. Slowly direct the spray downward, allowing the same runoff, until you reach the very bottom. The piece will dry almost immediately without any residue whatsoever.
When any of the above are completed, the piece will be vulnerable to corrosion, so, immediately after drying, the parts that are not going to be parkerized or blued or painted should, just like that cast iron skillet, be coated with whatever oil, grease, etc. that you feel appropriate.
.
After being on this Planet for 71 years, and being involved in Shooting for about 60 of those years, I thought that I had heard almost everything. Apparently, I have not!
I would submit that "your friend" is one of the best arguments FOR Birth Control that I have ever heard of.
It also supports the Theory that the Internet is one of the best sources of dis-information available today.
.
After being on this Planet for 71 years, and being involved in Shooting for about 60 of those years, I thought that I had heard almost everything. Apparently, I have not!
I would submit that "your friend" is one of the best arguments FOR Birth Control that I have ever heard of.
It also supports the Theory that the Internet is one of the best sources of dis-information available today.
.
manbearpig
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Somewhere in the Third World
ive washed gun parts with hot water, and if you dont oil them directly afterwards they rust almost immediately. extra care must be taken to use light, moisture-displacing oils in any nooks/crannies where water could be trapped. my guess is that this guy ran them through the dry cycle, perhaps even left them in the dishwasher a bit before claiming them. no way rust that thick forms after just a 15 min wash cycle.
on another note: it continually amazes me what people here do in their kitchen sinks, counters, tables, dishwashers, ovens, utensils and cookware. everything from degreasing to mixing chemicals to cleaning guns to parkerizing and bluing and curing finishes - and thats not to mention the obviously inadequate ventilation.
an electric 2-burner range, old pots/pans, a curing chamber, workbench, vent/fans etc are cheap/easy to acquire/build, why the Fing hell you would expose yourself or - even worse - your family to the oils, leads, fumes, chemicals, etc by doing this sh*t in your kitchen with your kitchen appliances/cookware that you eat from? that is the height of stupidity -- yet i wonder how many people whove made disparaging remarks about the OP in this thread make it a common practice.
on another note: it continually amazes me what people here do in their kitchen sinks, counters, tables, dishwashers, ovens, utensils and cookware. everything from degreasing to mixing chemicals to cleaning guns to parkerizing and bluing and curing finishes - and thats not to mention the obviously inadequate ventilation.
an electric 2-burner range, old pots/pans, a curing chamber, workbench, vent/fans etc are cheap/easy to acquire/build, why the Fing hell you would expose yourself or - even worse - your family to the oils, leads, fumes, chemicals, etc by doing this sh*t in your kitchen with your kitchen appliances/cookware that you eat from? that is the height of stupidity -- yet i wonder how many people whove made disparaging remarks about the OP in this thread make it a common practice.
Doesnt this make you feel good all over, cos no matter how bad you messed up you aint ever gonna do this..........not ever.
Hope he salvaged it Ok
Scrape the rust off and rub it down with a can of Spam.....but take the Spam OUT of the can first otherwise youll just scratch the gun and make it worse.
Hope he salvaged it Ok
Scrape the rust off and rub it down with a can of Spam.....but take the Spam OUT of the can first otherwise youll just scratch the gun and make it worse.
Now it may have been said already (I'm not reading thru 38 pages to find out)...but anyone who doesn't have the common sense to realize that putting his/her gun in a dishwasher is a bad idea, probably shouldn't be trusted with a gun in the first place!
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Wow...what a balloon-knot!
