DIY shotgun barrel regulation

jjohnwm

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I have a lovely old Husqvarna SxS 12-gauge that I've owned for many years; nearly sold it a couple times, but I got it so cheaply and I like looking at it and playing with it so much that it's still here. Nice walnut, lots of honest blue wear but no rust, bank vault lock-up, double triggers, steel butt plate, straight grip...this thing defines "Nice Old Gun" to me.

When I say "no rust" I should qualify that with "now"; I got it at a garage sale back when such things were easily and legally done, and it had a fair bit of rust at both muzzles due to improper storage. I cut off both barrels at about 22 inches and screwed an old set of open sights to the rib, creating a poor man's double rifle that is an absolute blast to shoot...literally and figuratively. It groups 4 Challengers, two out of each side, into about 3 - 3.5 inches at 40 yards, slightly left of POA and a wee bit high, with Truballs shooting very close to the same as well. It's taken one bear and one deer during my ownership of it, at ranges that allowed for easy and effective Kentucky windage in the case of the deer, and point-blank for the bear. I used Challenger slugs for those, but it's also shot several hundred rounds of whatever cheap slugs I could lay my hands on for just plain fun.

The two barrels never cross; the left shoots on the left, the right shoots on the right, and the disparity increases with increasing range. This has always bugged me a wee bit, and I always figured I would try to do something about it somdeday. Time passed.

A few years back I was reading a series of threads on the Accurate Reloading website which detailed a big brouhaha centered around a bunch of SxS double rifles made by Sabatti. They were, by double rifle standards, very inexpensive, and one of the reasons for this was because they were regulated at the factory by the simple expedient of grinding tiny amounts of metal off portions of the inner edge of the muzzle, causing escaping gases to push the bullet over the other way a bit. I always toyed with the idea of trying this myself on a double shotgun, but...more time passed.

Now retired, I went into the basement yesterday...and a couple hours later I found my Dremel in my hand and a shiny spot on the edge of my gun's left muzzle. :sok2 It was a tiny amount of grinding, barely visible unless you were looking for it...just like those Sabattis. It was dark outside; I had to wait until today to try it out. I felt the same way you do when you shoot an animal, can't immediately find it, and need to wait till the next day to resume the search...i.e. really, really anxious...

Just came in from shooting up a bunch of assorted slugs. Groups sizes vary from brand to brand, as they always did...but the separation between the left and right barrels at 40 yards is unquestionably reduced, so much so that I need to check the target after each shot to be able to distinguish which one came from which barrel. Had no Challengers, but shot a bunch of Truballs and got some encouraging results.

No pics of today's shooting, but here's an old one of the gun shooting a couple of groups with likely a couple different loads; target stickers fell off before the pics were taken. I'll explore this DIY blasphemy a bit further and maybe post some pics. :) Who knows? If it works out, I may take the next step to damnation and screw on a piece of pic rail and mount an optic! :)

husqvarna SxS.jpg
 

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I've used the method of trimming barrels to regulate poi before. The last Spanish double I did I had to cut the barrels on an angle so the bottom of the tubes were about 1/8" longer than the top. Brought the poi up right perfect with how I sighted the bead

My Husqvarna 51 hammer gun prints slugs slightly high and left when I use it as a muzzleloader but it patterns buckshot extremely well using 209 inline adapters
I've been toying with the idea of having my Husqvarna 20b hammer gun threaded for chokes and use rifled chokes and load slugs in brass hulls. It has a nice wide flat rib perfect for a micro red dot. I just haven't found the time
 
I've used the method of trimming barrels to regulate poi before. The last Spanish double I did I had to cut the barrels on an angle so the bottom of the tubes were about 1/8" longer than the top. Brought the poi up right perfect with how I sighted the bead

My Husqvarna 51 hammer gun prints slugs slightly high and left when I use it as a muzzleloader but it patterns buckshot extremely well using 209 inline adapters
I've been toying with the idea of having my Husqvarna 20b hammer gun threaded for chokes and use rifled chokes and load slugs in brass hulls. It has a nice wide flat rib perfect for a micro red dot. I just haven't found the time
What about birdshot? Should be the same?
I'm talking about a cheap coach gun for cowboy action shooting. I think right barrel is I M and left barrel mod. Left barrel shots high and to the left. Right barrel is bit high. This is with light field loads. For cowboy action I'm going to load it down even more which might effect elevation but the left barrel shoots to far to the left.
What is best way with Drewnal tool or files to bring point of impact of left barrel more to the right?
If this guns chokes were opened up more it would be better for what I'm doing but I would still prefer both barrels to be regulated closer to each other Orford left barrel to shoot more to the right.
Any thoughts? Anyone?
 
I have a lovely old Husqvarna SxS 12-gauge that I've owned for many years; nearly sold it a couple times, but I got it so cheaply and I like looking at it and playing with it so much that it's still here. Nice walnut, lots of honest blue wear but no rust, bank vault lock-up, double triggers, steel butt plate, straight grip...this thing defines "Nice Old Gun" to me.

When I say "no rust" I should qualify that with "now"; I got it at a garage sale back when such things were easily and legally done, and it had a fair bit of rust at both muzzles due to improper storage. I cut off both barrels at about 22 inches and screwed an old set of open sights to the rib, creating a poor man's double rifle that is an absolute blast to shoot...literally and figuratively. It groups 4 Challengers, two out of each side, into about 3 - 3.5 inches at 40 yards, slightly left of POA and a wee bit high, with Truballs shooting very close to the same as well. It's taken one bear and one deer during my ownership of it, at ranges that allowed for easy and effective Kentucky windage in the case of the deer, and point-blank for the bear. I used Challenger slugs for those, but it's also shot several hundred rounds of whatever cheap slugs I could lay my hands on for just plain fun.

The two barrels never cross; the left shoots on the left, the right shoots on the right, and the disparity increases with increasing range. This has always bugged me a wee bit, and I always figured I would try to do something about it somdeday. Time passed.

A few years back I was reading a series of threads on the Accurate Reloading website which detailed a big brouhaha centered around a bunch of SxS double rifles made by Sabatti. They were, by double rifle standards, very inexpensive, and one of the reasons for this was because they were regulated at the factory by the simple expedient of grinding tiny amounts of metal off portions of the inner edge of the muzzle, causing escaping gases to push the bullet over the other way a bit. I always toyed with the idea of trying this myself on a double shotgun, but...more time passed.

Now retired, I went into the basement yesterday...and a couple hours later I found my Dremel in my hand and a shiny spot on the edge of my gun's left muzzle. :sok2 It was a tiny amount of grinding, barely visible unless you were looking for it...just like those Sabattis. It was dark outside; I had to wait until today to try it out. I felt the same way you do when you shoot an animal, can't immediately find it, and need to wait till the next day to resume the search...i.e. really, really anxious...

Just came in from shooting up a bunch of assorted slugs. Groups sizes vary from brand to brand, as they always did...but the separation between the left and right barrels at 40 yards is unquestionably reduced, so much so that I need to check the target after each shot to be able to distinguish which one came from which barrel. Had no Challengers, but shot a bunch of Truballs and got some encouraging results.

No pics of today's shooting, but here's an old one of the gun shooting a couple of groups with likely a couple different loads; target stickers fell off before the pics were taken. I'll explore this DIY blasphemy a bit further and maybe post some pics. :) Who knows? If it works out, I may take the next step to damnation and screw on a piece of pic rail and mount an optic! :)

View attachment 675163
How has your modifications effected bird shot point of aim?
 
I don't believe I've ever tried it with birdshot. My shooting has been almost entirely with slugs, and a bit of buckshot use. I would assume birdshot would be the same?

You need to shave a tiny crescent of metal off the sharp edge where the bore meets the muzzle face, taking it off on the opposite side from where you want to move the POI; i.e. to move the group to the left, shave a wee bit off the right side, as viewed when holding the gun normally. I did all my shaving on the right barrel to move the group a bit left, then a minute amount on the bottom of the left barrel to tweak its group upwards.

Since my barrels were trimmed, they were both unchoked. Slugs usually shoot better for me in most of my guns with at least a modified choke, and buckshot needs choking as well. My gun shoots pretty well with slugs, not so great with buckshot. I've even toyed with the notion of trying the barrel shave thing on factory-choked full-length barrels like yours; I think it would have great potential.
 
I don't believe I've ever tried it with birdshot. My shooting has been almost entirely with slugs, and a bit of buckshot use. I would assume birdshot would be the same?

You need to shave a tiny crescent of metal off the sharp edge where the bore meets the muzzle face, taking it off on the opposite side from where you want to move the POI; i.e. to move the group to the left, shave a wee bit off the right side, as viewed when holding the gun normally. I did all my shaving on the right barrel to move the group a bit left, then a minute amount on the bottom of the left barrel to tweak its group upwards.

Since my barrels were trimmed, they were both unchoked. Slugs usually shoot better for me in most of my guns with at least a modified choke, and buckshot needs choking as well. My gun shoots pretty well with slugs, not so great with buckshot. I've even toyed with the notion of trying the barrel shave thing on factory-choked full-length barrels like yours; I think it would have great potential.
So gun coming out of recoil is part of my problem. With short barrels and lightweight the gun is no fun to shoot with 3 inch magnums. I noticed with regular field loads if I change my body position and stand more square to target without putting my one foot in front of the other. This effects point of aim.
I'm thinking because with double barrel your barrel is not in line with stock so recoil has more effect.
Standing square to target the left barrel now hits 3.5" high and 1 and three quarters left.
Gun is for cowboy action so I need to get into reloading for 12 gauge. I'm going to see where it hits with really light cowboy loads before I mess with it anymore.
If anyone has a 73 Winchester ,original, uberti or possibly miroku or antique status single action or 12 gage loading tools and they can be antique as well. If you live in L. A. or lower Alberta shoot me a P. M. If you want to sell.
Thanks
 
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