DLASK 10/22 Project (Updated with Range Report post #30)

Clobbersauras

Clobbersauras

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Thought I'd chart some progress (or lack thereof) on a little project I've been working on. I picked up a DLASK DAR 22 receiver a few months back and quickly purchased one of their 20 inch fluted BBL's. I wanted to go with something a little different so I also picked up a Choate side folder for the project. My hope is that this will replace my BRNO # 4 as my next 200 yard rifle.

I've been told I'll be disappointed with the results. But, being a sucker for punishment, I've decided to soldier on. I'll post pics along the way.

Here's a pic of what I have so far...
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I have a Bushy 3200 5-15x for the project. I am in the process of carefully stoning the bolt as per Dr. Lectors excellent tutorial in this forum. I have a Vblock and buffer on the way. The trigger I'm still trying to decide what to do, but I'll have a decision made on that by this week.

The stock presents a whole bunch of problems. The folding mechanism is actually quite tight with just a hint of movement. I'll have to figure a way to eliminate that movement or minimize it as much as I can before accuracy testing. It's not bad, but it has to get better. Also, the stock is quite flexible and I need to stiffen it as much as I can.

First stiffening effort in the next pic...
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My dremel skills suck, but these two shafts are quite rigid and should help to limit movement somewhat without adding too much weight. I'll add them to the forend and epoxy them in. I cut them from and old wooden driver that I had. I suck at golf, so believe me that old club has served it's purpose better in this way than in my hands on the course!

I also have to hog out the barrel channel and try to come up with some way to put a pressure pad at the forend . I've cut the stock back to just forward of where the barrel band would have gone, so there's only a few thin structural supports to put the pad on.

The way this stock is designed, it's going to be hard to bed, and I believe I can forget about pillar bedding it. The stock itself is quite hollow and there is a plastic "pillar" through which you would mount the take down screw to the rifle. I'm not sure I can take enough material away to bed it with a metal pillar. I'll have to bed it the best I can and do some testing to see if this stock is going to work out.

Oh yeah, I also need to fashion a cheek rest so I get the proper cheek weld/alignment.:D Will keep posting as I bring this thing to it's conclusion.....
 
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DLASK 10/22 Project (Range Report Added)

Well this is embarrassing, no replies, I didn't think I was that boring! OK, maybe I am.:D

The rifle is now ready for the range. I had a bunch of challenges with this stock. I had to cut the forearm back another half inch as the fluted barrel was just too big and the stock too narrow to float it properly. I used my now ninja like dremel skills to hog out the barrel channel. The stock is NOT designed for accuracy. Before bedding it, with the action screwed in nice and tight, there was 1/4 inch of movement up and down at the rear of the action. The gun actually pivoted at the action screw. To combat this I decided to bed the areas in front of the magazine well, below the action screw hole, at the rear of the action channel and then the first two inches of the barrel. The only place I didn't bed was just under the V-block as I saw no point in bedding an area that may be changed if I remove or replace the barrel.

Here's a pic of the bedding job..it ain't pretty but it turned out better than I could have hoped. The action is now very hard to get into the stock and it locks up very tight with no movement at all.
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Here's a pic of the action just before bedding. I had to use two packages of JB weld to be able to bed the action because the stock was so hollow. I used putty, masking tape and Kiwi Polish as a release agent. Note the putty I built up under the V-block to create a channel for the V-block to sit in.
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With regards to the V-block I decided to go with a Rimfire Technologies adjustable block as the Dlask barrel did not fit tight into the action. There was very slight wobble in the barrel when put into the action. I wouldn't call it loose, but it was noticeable, so I used the set screw normally used to combat barrel droop to ensure it doesn't move.

For a trigger I decided to go with the Timney drop in unit. It was ungodly expensive but for me the best option for an in-Canada transaction. It's not the best trigger I've ever used, but it should be serviceable for this project.

Here's a pic of the finished project.I went with a set of low mount Weaver tip off for rings, it mounts the scope extremely low over the barrel and I find I will probably not need a cheek rest to get a good repeatable cheek weld. The scope is a Bushnell Elite 3200 5-15x. Range report this weekend!
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Thanks guys! I picked up several brands of ammo to go along with what I have on-hand. Will spend a good chunk of the weekend seasoning the barrel and testing ammo. 25 yards only this weekend!
 
That looks like a nice little rig you've got set up there. I've often considered bedding the action on my 10/22 and always wondered how I'd do it without getting epoxy everywhere. Now I know. :) I'll be watching for your range report!
 
I think you're going to like that barrel,I've got the 16" target fluted and it is accurate. I have found SK Standard Plus to be my go to ammo, I have tried some Eley and Lapua but they are too costly for me.
 
mmatt said:
That looks like a nice little rig you've got set up there. I've often considered bedding the action on my 10/22 and always wondered how I'd do it without getting epoxy everywhere. Now I know. :) I'll be watching for your range report!
Click to expand...

If you want to know more please PM me or go to rimfire central as there are lots of tutorials there. The most important thing is release agent. I used Kiwi neutral shoe polish. The JB weld worked great, I left it for 24 hours and then pulled it apart.

Here's a pic of the stock as I was placing the putty in it to work as a dam against the JB weld. I actually moved it forward about a 1/2 inch from this photo but you get the idea. I've since cleaned up the inside of the walls of the stock and you can notice where I started to rough up the bottom of the stock well to help the weld stick better. You can also get a sense of the silly design of this stock with just a small pillar of plastic for the action screw.
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Here's a pic of the back of the stock. I placed putty just below the cross bolt so that the JB weld wouldn't run down. I only put the bedding compound at the end of the stock, just over the cross bolt. I didn't bed the side rails. I had to file some JB weld away in this area where it oozed out as it interfered with the trigger group.
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Here's another pic of the action just prior to bedding. To fill the action screw hole, I just filled it with putty. For the action screw hole in the stock, I took a straw, packed it with putty, wrapped it in masking tape to get it to match the size of the hole, slathered it with shoe polish and jammed it in there.
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Nice job Clobb looks great. I just bought a new 10/22 sporter that im lookin to trick out, so Im interested in your thoughts on the Timney trigger group. Did you purchase it from Mystic Precision? Looks like a great little set-up, cant wait to see the full range report.
 
nice build Clobbersauras, i just finished the bedding on my 10/22 too. i only have the 16in dlask with the same scope as yours, looks better with a longer barrel though, that scope with the sunshade almost reaches the end of the barrel. i went cheap for the trigger though, just ordered the VQ hammer and sear combo. did you get a chance to test her out yet?
 
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