Dlask custom shooting flyers

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Hello shooters,
I am looking at and have tried a Dlask DAR22 which sits in
a B & C stock with custom bbl. And using a good Sightron SIII scope.
It generally shoots nice small groups, but occasionally throws a flyer in a group. I am using quality Lapua ammo. The bbl has been properly cleaned, mag feed lips clean, etc. Bullets not getting dinged. So what may be causing this?
The ammo is the same I use in my Annie BR rifle, so that is not an issue. Something mechanical I am missing? Currently playing around w. torque settings to see how that impacts. Thanks for your help.
V.
 
.22 rifles, especially semi-autos, can be very fussy about ammo. Just because that ammo shoots well in your BR rifle does not guarantee it will do the same in the 10/22. I would suggest experimenting with different ammo. If that doesn't work, in my experience, a Kidd barrel will be MUCH more consistent than a Dlask barrel .
Good Luck!
TEG
 
Occasional flyers are most often caused by the ammunition. If you have a proven and tested lot that is significantly out of sync in that particular rifle, try different ammo and see if you can find better consistency. I would next suspect damage to the round during cycling... you say that the bullets are not damaged, how have you tested that? If by cursory visual inspection you may be missing a misaligned bullet. Also, try to determine which bullet from the magazine is the flyer... often there is a repeatable binding in the magazine that feeds bullet #3 or #6 or #10 (eg.) in a manner different from the other rounds. Try different magazines... also clean your magazines and polish the feedlips. The next culprit is likely to be the crown... carefully inspect the crown with a loop or magnifying glass. As far as the barrel quality goes, Josef makes a very good barrel, I have shot multiple barrels from most manufacturers and would put Dlask toward the top of the heap for consistent quality. Dlask also stands behind their products, so if you do your job and journal your trouble-shooting efforts, give them a call and run through the situation with them, I am sure they will be able to assist you... BUT do your part FIRST.
 
I also suspect the ammo, as previously stated just because it shoots good in you Anschutz doesn't guarantee it will shoot good in your DAR 22, torque settings can be helpful. Have you bedded the rifle? That would be another area to check as well. I would imagine the DAR 22 receiver is a lot more consistent than a 10/22. However, that doesn't mean B&C didn't open up the stock to account for varying receiver thickness/width.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Good points. The flyers have occurred w. different target ammo. So I suspect it is not a problem, but will retest again. The bbl is a good one..Lilja Match ss. No crown issue. Will polish mag lips. Checked the bullets for damage by feeding and extracting. No feed damage. Will monitor and see if flyers are same series each time from the mag. Thanks, all.
Back to the range this week. And I use wind flags.
 
I’ve read the b&c stocks around the most rigid stocks in the market. From what it sounds like it could be something with the stock perhaps? Like most people have pointed out already, if you know it’s not the ammo you are going to do a process of limitation. I would start at the stock and work up.

Just for some more info, how do you shoot? From and bench, bipod or rest? 25y, 50y or 100y? Also, what do you consider a flyer? Are they off by .5 inch or 6 inch or do they miss completely. The. It’s info the better!

If all else fails, contact dlask. Like mentioned above, they are really good at trying to help you out with their products they sell. I own one ( Dar22 ) and had them take a look at a FTF and stove piping issue, they had it for a while but fixed the problem.
 
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I usually run my tests at 50yds. Been getting 4 shots all touching, easy headed to a 1/2" group, then one pops out 3/4" or so from the rest of the shots.
Belongs to a friend. Going to check bedding, but think the bbl lug is supported. The next trip to the range might show things.
 
Even though you said the barrel has been properly cleaned , did you look to see if one of those dreaded carbon rings has started in the chamber area
 
I noticed my kidd barrel likes to be dirty... Tightens up after 50-75 shots after being cleaned.

Also with rim fire VERY small things can effect it. I found with mine A nice firm push back into my shoulder helps immensely with flyers. Rather then just sitting there. I usually obtain this with loading a bipod or pulling the rifle back with my non trigger hand.
 
Hello shooters,
I am looking at and have tried a Dlask DAR22 which sits in
a B & C stock with custom bbl. And using a good Sightron SIII scope.
It generally shoots nice small groups, but occasionally throws a flyer in a group. I am using quality Lapua ammo. The bbl has been properly cleaned, mag feed lips clean, etc. Bullets not getting dinged. So what may be causing this?
The ammo is the same I use in my Annie BR rifle, so that is not an issue. Something mechanical I am missing? Currently playing around w. torque settings to see how that impacts. Thanks for your help.
V.

the torque setting will only change your point of impact of your entire group and not cause a flyer.
like mentioned above its either ammo or the round is getting some slight damage through feeding, my guess.

you shooting indoor?
wind if outdoor?
distance to target?
 
Nobody has mentioned it yet, your chamber. Firstly, how do you know that the barrel is "properly cleaned"? Do you have access to a borescope to verify this? Carbon/lead rings form readily in the chamber and are difficult to remove. A C/L ring will easily throw your accuracy/consistency out the window. If the area is clean, how well was the chamber cut? Any "flags" of metal hanging off the side of the rifling where they ramp at an angle from the chamber to the bore? Does everything in there look good and clean and smooth? How does it feel when you slug the barrel? Any restrictions in the breech end of the barrel are bad news, you only ever want the barrel to tighten up a little at the muzzle if anything. If that barrel was fitted backwards, game over.
 
Hello shooters,
I am looking at and have tried a Dlask DAR22 which sits in
a B & C stock with custom bbl. And using a good Sightron SIII scope.
It generally shoots nice small groups, but occasionally throws a flyer in a group. I am using quality Lapua ammo. The bbl has been properly cleaned, mag feed lips clean, etc. Bullets not getting dinged. So what may be causing this?
The ammo is the same I use in my Annie BR rifle, so that is not an issue. Something mechanical I am missing? Currently playing around w. torque settings to see how that impacts. Thanks for your help.
V.

As seen from other posts in this thread there are many things that can contribute to occasional flyers in an otherwise nicely performing rifle. None of the suggestions should be disregarded. At the risk of provoking unwanted argument, however, consider also that the problem might be a little more commonplace.

If, for example, four out of five groups are good -- which for the sake of argument are under 1/2" at 50 yards and the fifth is a little more -- perhaps it is possible that neither the rifle itself nor the ammo is the issue. When otherwise good shooting happens, spoiled only by one shot, it might indicate that the rifle may be a little more challenging to shoot as consistently as others. It's not indicated what model of Bell and Carlson stock is used, but sporter-style stocks can be notorious for this.

Some shooters might say "Horse hockey! My rifle with a sporter-style stock shoots well and shoots consistently." And who would argue with them? I have two new sporters that I bought this year. One shoots very well, and can shoot five groups under 1/2" at 50 with relative ease; the other has shot many four out of five groups under 1/2" with the fifth being just a little more. The first rifle has a heavy barrel, the second has a barrel that is not quite so heavy but apart from the one group in five that is not as good as the others it shoots very well indeed. It just doesn't seem to respond as effortlessly as the other.

In any case, if there was something physically wrong that made a rifle an inconsistent shooter, perhaps that inconsistency ought to show up a little more often. On the other hand, maybe all rifles, given the proper attention and ammo can be made to shoot equally well, regardless of design.
 
If, for example, four out of five groups are good -- which for the sake of argument are under 1/2" at 50 yards and the fifth is a little more -- perhaps it is possible that neither the rifle itself nor the ammo is the issue. When otherwise good shooting happens, spoiled only by one shot, it might indicate that the rifle may be a little more challenging to shoot as consistently as others. That's a bit of a stretch

In any case, if there was something physically wrong that made a rifle an inconsistent shooter, perhaps that inconsistency ought to show up a little more often. Not necessarily...

The issue is extremely common in rimfire rifles, and most often it has nothing to do with the shooter. There is variance in how extreme the "fliers" will be in different rifles, and even with the same rifle on different days it will also respond differently. My CZ custom suffers from this, and so does my Anschütz 64 MSR custom to a greater degree than the CZ. Both guns are capable of kicking out some tiny groups, but it is inescapable that in the course of firing 25 shots, a group or two will go a little squirrely. It might stay in the .3's and .4's, which many would still be quite happy with, or it can spit out to the .5s and .6s at times. There is seemingly nothing obviously wrong with either rifle, and the barrels are of very high quality. I did not err the vast majority of times the rifles behave in this manner, neither am I too proud to admit when I do fluff a shot. I can easily tell I am not at fault for the fliers in this case. The only insight into the issue I've been able to glean comes from Bill Calfee's somewhat recent posting on his forum:



And then it pukes.....

CYA friends......( CYA friends who are serious about rimfire accuracy)


And then it pukes!


This barrel I'm fooling with, that I've described on the "private" part of CYA, members only, as me having a 'hot" one.......( if you aren't a member, this won't mean anything to you)


Anyway, this "hot" barrel I'm working with, ain't exactly "HOT".....but LORD Almighty, it's close.....


__________________


This "HOT" barrel pukes.....


And there's only two reasons for this....( the ammo we have to deal with has flippers, but this isn't the issue here)


I can shoot this thing, and it will kick out seven or eight shots that cut the dot out....


Then it will puke.



Because this thing will kick out seven or eight perfect dots, before it pukes, means that everything about this barrel and contraption, is perfect.......but for one of two things:


Either the chamber leade does not have a 100% fluid transition, which is the most common reason a barrel "pukes".


Or, in post chamber lapping the barrel, I've waited too long to get away from it........



And this is what I've done in the case of this barrel....


And the sad part of it is, I don't know a way to correct the restriction at the breech from me staying too long doing my post chamber lap.



Your friend, Bill Calfee

PS:

If you have a barrel with either of the conditions I've described, that you can run several rounds in a row, simply cutting the dot out, then you get an unexpected, wild flipper, for no reason, you will also notice that it will take two or three rounds for the barrel to start drilling again...



If you have a chamber without a 100% fluid transition, or have overlapped when post chamber lapping, depending on how bad the breech restriction is, it may take one to three rounds, after the barrel "pukes" for it to return to kicking the dot out...

And then it will kick out another 8 to 10 killer rounds before it "pukes" again....

________________


CYA friends, when a barrel like I've described, "pukes", it's self cleaning an improperly finished, or over post chamber lapped leade....


Given that our friend Bill here has chambered and fitted many, many barrels to rifles over the years, I am 100% confident that he has narrowed down the cause of the issue. He notes that he can be at fault for causing it by post-chamber lapping too long, and the only real remedy is to cut off the offending chamber and have another go at chambering and finishing the barrel again. A less than ideal finish in the chamber post-cutting is the other cause, hence the reason for attempting the post-chamber lap in the first place. Given my borescope observations of my two custom rifles, I'd say there is a very good chance that this is what I'm dealing with, and quite frankly what mostly everyone with a factory built/chambered rifle is also dealing with.

Given enough shooting, the leade should wear in and settle down the flier problem. I've seen Calfee note this can take a case or two of ammo, so at the rate I'm getting out to the range, it'll take me a few years to shoot my rifles enough to naturally wear in. I'm not brave enough to attempt chamber lapping them, nor is re-chambering them a viable option, so shooting it is... I did give the MSR a light patching with JB paste plus a little 400 grit lapping compound mixed in, it certainly seemed to help a great deal, but it is something I did very cautiously and with knowledgeable intent, I would not suggest anyone to blindly do the same without serious evaluation of their bore, and I'm not going to risk doing it again foolishly thinking that if a little was good, more should be better. It might work, but the risk of ruining the chamber is too great.

To exemplify the "puking" issue, as Calfee puts it, here is a target shot with my CZ Custom. All the groups in the .3s and up were "pukers", the gun can do better than that... when it's not feeling sick...

 
If, for example, four out of five groups are good -- which for the sake of argument are under 1/2" at 50 yards and the fifth is a little more -- perhaps it is possible that neither the rifle itself nor the ammo is the issue. When otherwise good shooting happens, spoiled only by one shot, it might indicate that the rifle may be a little more challenging to shoot as consistently as others.

That's a bit of a stretch


A bit of a stretch, as in difficult to believe? To say it's hard to accept that a rifle might be a little more challenging to shoot as consistently as others reveals a belief in shooter infallibility that is betrayed by the vast majority of targets posted on this forum. The corollary is the belief that all rifles are equally straightforward to shoot as consistently as others. That is unsustainable. Some rifles are easier to shoot well than others. Simply put, sporter rifles are generally more challenging to shoot as well as rifles designed for target shooting.

It should go without saying that no one posting frequently here is a high level BR shooter. While it may be convenient to imagine that when results are less than desirable there must be something wrong with the equipment or ammo, most shooters would serve themselves better by accepting that they can and do screw up more often than they'd like to think. It's natural because no one is a human rail gun. And it is certain that not all rifles are as straightforward to shoot as consistently as others. To argue otherwise is both ill informed and unsupportable.

Rabid, it's unfortunate that both your custom rifles, the Anschutz MSR and the CZ, may have chamber/leade problems and do not shoot to your satisfaction. Perhaps you have the problem identified, as described by Calfee. Perhaps your flyer problem will diminish as the leade wears in. In any case, you seem to have very bad luck with barrels, first the original factory tubes and now both the custom barrels that replaced them.
 
A bit of a stretch, as in difficult to believe? To say it's hard to accept that a rifle might be a little more challenging to shoot as consistently as others reveals a belief in shooter infallibility that is betrayed by the vast majority of targets posted on this forum. The corollary is the belief that all rifles are equally straightforward to shoot as consistently as others. That is unsustainable. Some rifles are easier to shoot well than others. Simply put, sporter rifles are generally more challenging to shoot as well as rifles designed for target shooting. I agree that sporters are "more challenging" to shoot, but that's a relative term and the degree of challenge does not increase substantially. Special considerations need to be given to the rest, setup, front bag, and hold. Once properly addressed... It really is as simple as hold steady and break the trigger clean. If anyone does not find it so, they are doing something terribly incorrect, or their rifle is not as capable of delivering the accuracy as they'd like to believe. Benchrest is meant to be a showcase of the equipment, the shooter's role only to decide when the contraption should fire, relative to the wind conditions. The preceding statement of course refers only to dedicated BR rifles and rest systems. The various rests/bags more casual shooters might purchase do assist in producing results that are highly representative of the rifle's absolute accuracy, as it is their specific intent to reduce or otherwise eliminate the effects of human error. To be explicitly clear, anyone struggling to shoot off a bench is doing it horribly wrong. A genuinely "bad" shot should only throw a group out into the 0.3's at 50 yards.

It should go without saying that no one posting frequently here is a high level BR shooter. While it may be convenient to imagine that when results are less than desirable there must be something wrong with the equipment or ammo, most shooters would serve themselves better by accepting that they can and do screw up more often than they'd like to think. It's natural because no one is a human rail gun. And it is certain that not all rifles are as straightforward to shoot as consistently as others. To argue otherwise is both ill informed and unsupportable.Why is it that you make the presumption one must be a "human rail gun" in order to produce excellent target results? You seem to have it in your mind that one must shoot their rifle with such an extraordinarily consistent hold, otherwise shots will go flying all over the paper with just a micro-gram of inconsistent pressure. This is simply false. You might say "well, I find it to be so!" and fair enough, but your technique and setup is therefore obviously fatally flawed. Appropriate bench technique should allow the shooter to shoot to the accuracy limits of their equipment with relative ease. No muss, no hold fuss.

Rabid, it's unfortunate that both your custom rifles, the Anschutz MSR and the CZ, may have chamber/leade problems and do not shoot to your satisfaction. Perhaps you have the problem identified, as described by Calfee. Perhaps your flyer problem will diminish as the leade wears in. In any case, you seem to have very bad luck with barrels, first the original factory tubes and now both the custom barrels that replaced them.

I did not have issues with either of the factory barrels of these rifles that are now customs. The CZ was intended from the very beginning to be a custom build, as the Boyd's stock was purchased first. I then bought a 455 American as a donor rifle for the action and immediately sold the factory stock and barrel, of which I had no intention of ever using. The project sat on the back-burner for a number of months as I had wanted JC Custom Barrels to make me a rimfire barrel for it, but given the delays and some other circumstances, I ended up with a Lilja being custom fit for it. I never said it doesn't shoot to my satisfaction, in fact, it has given me a great deal of satisfaction and has produced my personal best target results to date. I am simply being honest about it, and highlighting that even though it is very good, it is not perfect. If you were to extrapolate a little, particularly with Calfee's notes in consideration, you would come to realize that producing a perfect rimfire rifle is nearly impossible. The artisans of RFBR rifle building can often come close to perfection, and perhaps sometimes they get lucky and produce one that is simply amazing, but it is extraordinarily difficult for them to do so each and every time. This leads to the point that if specialist builders cannot assure perfection, factory produced rifles inevitably contain flaws of varying severity. It does not take much to throw top tier accuracy out the window, or, if not the accuracy, at least the consistency (à la the "puking" rifle). To say that I have chamber/leade problems is a slight overstep, no rifle is 100% ready to deliver it's best accuracy/consistency with a freshly cut chamber, it's humanly impossible to cut a chamber that perfectly. It can be customer choice or gunsmith discretion on whether or not to post-chamber lap or allow for natural wear-in. My barrel was not chambered by a BR gunsmith. I have observed the CZ chamber to gradually smooth out over time, it is a slow process for sure, but it'll get there eventually.


PS:

Friend Jsmith, post chamber lapping has its pitfalls......

If one is not extremely careful, one can ruin the bore by causing a restriction right in front of the leade...

When I finish a leade, and inspect how fluid my transition is, by slugging, at that point I make the determination whether to post chamber lap, or not.

In the case of your CYankee schmidt built rifle, when I have a leade as fluid as your schmidt had yours, I don't post chamber lap either.


The thing is, many people don't understand how and/or why a rifle would behave in the manner that they often do. They see a few good groups and some bad ones, then make the assumption that the good groups are what the rifle can do "all day, if I do my part". The bad groups... there is a logical disconnect that a rifle that shot the previous group so well could not possibly have acted up and spit out some random fliers... therefore: "it must have been me". Unsure of how or why "they" were at fault, they figure "the gun shoots better than me" and continue on their merry way. You applaud them for admitting they are not good shooters and suggest they continue to work on their technique. Meanwhile....



The above photo shows the development of a significant carbon/lead deposit in the chamber of my 64 MSR Custom at 150 rounds fired, 12 o'clock position. I have noted lately that the rifle's ability to group consistently ("puking" aside) declines sharply at the 50 round mark from a clean barrel. A chamber scrub may restore accuracy temporarily, but a full clean is necessary once above 100 rounds. Rotating the borescope 90 degrees shows that the carbon ring is not uniform, and has only lightly formed at the 9 o'clock position.



Post cleaning inspection reveals a gouge where the large carbon deposit formed. The reamer must have caught a chip during chambering to cause this. It doesn't seem to affect accuracy in and of itself, as tight groups can be shot, but it does seem to attract fouling rapidly which does eventually affect the accuracy until cleaned.



We'll see how the MSR progresses over time, it is now shooting fairly well. It is already better than the factory barrel, which I never really had an issue with but I just wanted to see how an Anschütz custom would turn out. Anschütz really only produces their rifles to shoot approximately 1/2" groupings at 50 yards with good consistency, and they do deliver that more often than not. Still, they are factory produced arms and cannot be expected to deliver what a well built custom can. It is my interest to push the limits of rimfire accuracy, to which end factory components simply will not do. So you can see how it is performing, bottom row of Polar Biathlon was shot first. Accuracy potential is obvious, but for the "puker" shots. Top row Center-X was next, by then 50 rounds fired and consistency dropped on the second row of Center-X. The chamber was then scrubbed with a bronze brush which restored accuracy for SK Rifle Match. The round count is about 1000 behind my CZ, so we'll monitor how it progresses.

 
It really is as simple as hold steady and break the trigger clean. If anyone does not find it so, they are doing something terribly incorrect, or their rifle is not as capable of delivering the accuracy as they'd like to believe. … A genuinely "bad" shot should only throw a group out into the 0.3's at 50 yards.

When shooting small groups at 50 yards is that straightforward and simple it's no wonder that any group over .3" must always and only be the fault of the equipment or ammo, unless the shooter is terribly incompetent. Readers can only applaud your continuing success and cumulative knowledge. At the same time they might be curious to know if you think you might be leaving something on the table accuracy-wise considering your mix of custom barrels and tuners and ammo testing with other more everyday equipment.
 
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