Do I need a muzzle break of some kind for my VZ-58S?

Hell ya!
I've tried them all. The AK style one progresively raises your shots. The side vent (aka the coolest looking one!) sends your shots side to side. The marstar one realy is the best bang for my buck. But what do I know? I can only hit the gong @ 200m in the standing position 2 out of 5 shots when firing the rapidly through my holo sight.
:redface:
But there is one I havn't tried and wanted to. That is the RPK version mussle flash hidder. Anyone out there know how to get your hands on that?
 
you don't *need* one, but they reduce the recoil a bit and make the gun louder. whether you want one or not is completely up to you. i have the large muzzle break advertised on wolverines website, and it's served me well so far.

Cheers,
P.K.
 
I do not like a muzzle break the vz is very controllable without one, it has a bit of muzzle flip but it is moderate and very consistent, where a muzzle break can cause muzzle to wander some. I get quicker follow ups without one.
 
M_A_T_T said:
Do you just thread a muzzle break on and that's it, go shooting?
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Yes, the Czech rifles are threaded. There is a thread protector ring on it. Push retainer pin in, and unscrew the protector, then screw on muzzle brake of your choice.
 
I've seen lots of posts here about muzzle rise on the VZ. I wonder if I'm shooting the same firearm, as I think it's a "cream puff" of a rifle in this regard. I can't imagine it being much easier to shoot with a muzzle break as it's already as easy as they come in my opinion. Just my 2 cents.
 
Satain said:
Hell ya!
I've tried them all. The AK style one progresively raises your shots. The side vent (aka the coolest looking one!) sends your shots side to side. The marstar one realy is the best bang for my buck. But what do I know? I can only hit the gong @ 200m in the standing position 2 out of 5 shots when firing the rapidly through my holo sight.
:redface:
But there is one I havn't tried and wanted to. That is the RPK version mussle flash hidder. Anyone out there know how to get your hands on that?
Click to expand...

The dlask and marstar breaks do not change POI if you mount them correctly.All brakes I have seen are loose and change POI due to the change in destabilizing gas at the base of the bullet which changes from shot to shot due to the different position of the brake from shot to shot.
The simplest fix - 12 to 15 wraps of plumbers teflon tape around the threads.
Tight brake - tight groups.
 
Thanx Chopper1 I am going to try that this weekend. So just use plain white teflon tape and wrap it around the threads and it will tighten up my groups? Could I use lock tight? Or does it have to be plumbers tape?
:confused:
 
I just think I'm better off without any extra paraphernalia hanging out at the end of my barrel.
The VZ-858 I have shoots very good groups and I fear changing the barrel's harmonics could (or could not) ruin this.
If I wanted easier shooting, I'd buy a telescopic sight for it. I'm going to try a Kobra sight in forward scout mounting. That extra pound or so of additional mass will reduce muzzle "flip" a bit more.
PP.
 
The muzzle rise has more to with the design of the stock than the weight up front. I bought a brake from Marstar as well & found no real difference in rise, recoil, accuracy (2 or 3 M.O.A. with the ammo I use) or noise. Cool factor maybe, I don't know. Just a matter of preference. My 2 cents...
 
Satain said:
Thanx Chopper1 I am going to try that this weekend. So just use plain white teflon tape and wrap it around the threads and it will tighten up my groups? Could I use lock tight? Or does it have to be plumbers tape?
:confused:
Click to expand...

Lock tight will not center the brake - plumbers tape will -bout 12 wraps
 
chopper 1 said:
The dlask and marstar breaks do not change POI if you mount them correctly.All brakes I have seen are loose and change POI due to the change in destabilizing gas at the base of the bullet which changes from shot to shot due to the different position of the brake from shot to shot.
The simplest fix - 12 to 15 wraps of plumbers teflon tape around the threads.
Tight brake - tight groups.
Click to expand...

I dont know how you shoot with 5 round mags but If its anything like me with the 30s the teflon tape would be a melted ball off goo after one time out. The brake should be timed so that it is very tight against fsb when plunger is locked in. If it is not take a bit off the back with a file until you can barely get it to lock in place by hand, or even tighter I would use a strap wrench. With it tight, although it could easily change POI, over not having it installed it should not change accuracy.
 
obiwanbonjovi said:
I dont know how you shoot with 5 round mags but If its anything like me with the 30s the teflon tape would be a melted ball off goo after one time out. The brake should be timed so that it is very tight against fsb when plunger is locked in. If it is not take a bit off the back with a file until you can barely get it to lock in place by hand, or even tighter I would use a strap wrench. With it tight, although it could easily change POI, over not having it installed it should not change accuracy.
Click to expand...

you with the 30s is going like this :ar15:

i used the teflon tape on a L1A1 FH and there was no goo altho i wasnt doing rapid fire .

i just sold a wolverine or marstar brake that came with a cz858 , it was not snug , matter of fact it was over so the filing wont work.
 
obiwanbonjovi said:
I dont know how you shoot with 5 round mags but If its anything like me with the 30s the teflon tape would be a melted ball off goo after one time out. The brake should be timed so that it is very tight against fsb when plunger is locked in. If it is not take a bit off the back with a file until you can barely get it to lock in place by hand, or even tighter I would use a strap wrench. With it tight, although it could easily change POI, over not having it installed it should not change accuracy.
Click to expand...

teflon tape will not melt - its easier than filing and filing doesnt center the brake
 
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