Do I need to crimp rifle ammunition?

ChiliDawg

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I have been practice loading to set up my dies for .223 Rem. Is the bullet held by friction or crimp. I'm used to roll or taper crimping when reloading pistol ammo. I'm a newb to rifle reloading.
 
I have been practice loading to set up my dies for .223 Rem. Is the bullet held by friction or crimp. I'm used to roll or taper crimping when reloading pistol ammo. I'm a newb to rifle reloading.

I crimp my 223 to be sure they don't come apart. I keep them loose or on stripper clips. My precision loads don't get crimped.
 
It also depends what your goal is. Crimping can improve ES with your handloads sometimes. A friend that I shoot with all the time has a heavy barreled 223 rem, and he was able to use a light crimp as the final step to get the ES down to single digit numbers measured with a labradar, thats after weight sorting brass, annealing, neck turning, etc, etc.... His handloads with 75gr Amax's are incredibly consistent and accurate out to 550yds. Sometimes the crimping can improve consistency with bullet release.
Lee factory crimp die would be the way to go if you choose to.
 
to crimp or not to crimp is entirely up to you, you'll make safe to use ammo either way. With that said I crimp everything from 9mm to 44 mag, to 223 to 308. I found when I started reloading putting a good solid crimp an any ammo get me better consistency and less unburnt powder on bigger calibers. Either way you'll be just fine.
 
It also depends what your goal is. Crimping can improve ES with your handloads sometimes. A friend that I shoot with all the time has a heavy barreled 223 rem, and he was able to use a light crimp as the final step to get the ES down to single digit numbers measured with a labradar, thats after weight sorting brass, annealing, neck turning, etc, etc.... His handloads with 75gr Amax's are incredibly consistent and accurate out to 550yds. Sometimes the crimping can improve consistency with bullet release.
Lee factory crimp die would be the way to go if you choose to.

If a crimp improves your accuracy, then your neck tension isn't adequate.
 
I crimp for my 454 Casull, if I don't the bullet tends to move out in the other rounds loaded in the revolver. This doesn't happen when I shot hot 45 cold loads in the same revolver. I now have a lever gun in 45 colt, so as a precaution I now crimp all my 45 colt and 454 casull loads, but, nothing else. Since I started crimping the 45 colt loads, I have noticed the revolver has less "dirt" in the action after shooting, so it maybe helping the powder to burn better. I'd like to say it's also more accurate, but, I don't shoot handguns well enough to have noticed.
 
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If you're using a collet die, crimping is I think necessary because the neck tension is not all that high. I've experienced bullet set back from recoil slam in the mag box from collet die sizing with no crimp. Neck sized or FL sized brass should be okay though.
 
What about crimping for reloading in a revovler? To crimp or not to crimp?!?

Crimp. At the least, you need to get rid of the flaring of the case mouth. Crimping also keeps the bullets from walking forward under recoil and tying up the cylinder.

As for the original poster's question, I have found crimping unnecessary for .223 and .308 semiautos, though your results may vary.
 
If you're using a collet die, crimping is I think necessary because the neck tension is not all that high. I've experienced bullet set back from recoil slam in the mag box from collet die sizing with no crimp. Neck sized or FL sized brass should be okay though.

Sounds like your die isn't giving enough neck tension. I think you can order a smaller diameter mandrel, or just modify your current one.

Crimp can also be good for heavy recoiling magnum rifle rounds, because the bullets can slam into the front of the mag box and get pressed into the case under heavy recoil. Not an issue with 223/308 ect. (Technically its the mag box slamming into the bullet, but whatever you get the point.)
 
I agree, but sometimes it's tough to get adequate and consistent neck tension without causing concentricity problems with the brass. Thats why a crimp can sometimes solve the problem without causing others.

I simply use a smaller diameter neck bushing to fix the real issue, rather than resorting to a band aid like crimping.
 
I simply use a smaller diameter neck bushing to fix the real issue, rather than resorting to a band aid like crimping.

I agree again, that can work, but it can also cause inconsistent concentricity during seating with the higher neck tension. I know that can be solved with more expensive seating dies and presses, but my point is excellent results can happen using affordable equipment and good techniques.
I don't consider a crimp a "band aid" when it can produce consistent and repeatable results.
 
I agree again, that can work, but it can also cause inconsistent concentricity during seating with the higher neck tension. I know that can be solved with more expensive seating dies and presses, but my point is excellent results can happen using affordable equipment and good techniques.
I don't consider a crimp a "band aid" when it can produce consistent and repeatable results.

It's a band aid when the real issue is neck tension, and you aren't resolving the real issue.
 
It's a band aid when the real issue is neck tension, and you aren't resolving the real issue.
Isn't crimping a form of neck tension? Isn't the goal of neck tension to hold the bullet in the brass at a specific overall length and release that grip at a consistent chamber pressure? I'd say if a crimp helps achieve that in some situations then it's not a band aid.
 
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