Do you have a dedicated upland shotgun?

Everybody is on about buying a SxS or O/U, some very expensive, some less so, some common some exotic. Buy a pump, buy a semi-auto. I love this, I love that etc.

Looking at what you have already...they are older moderately priced guns. You did not say what they are choked and I guess they are fixed. If you use a full choke gun on these birds and hit them at close range...there might not be a whole lot left. better to have a gun with a more open choke option (i.e. interchangeable) and perhaps a smaller bore (i.e. less shot).

I've got O/u's, pumps, semis 12 and 20 and a 16. All have interchangeable chokes except the 16 which is Mod. Barrel lengths are 26 and 28 for the most part, but do have a pump 12 and a semi 20 with 22 inch barrels. The 22 inch semi is a Remington LT-20 (small frame) that was refitted with the short VR barrel that was fitted for Rem choke tubes. It is light to carry, quick to respond on flushing birds and has been deadly on pheasants. I also use Browning (Hi-Viz) fiber optic sight bars that magnetically affix to the VR's of my guns. IMO ...these are an excellent addition for better field shooting, especially in low light situations.

I hope my experience and opinions help you out.
 
I settled on a 20 g Beretta 686 o/u for my upland gun and I really like it. I used to use a 12 g o/u but it was overkill in some situations, would get heavy to lug around after a few miles, and just not responsive enough in tighter cover. I tried to find a nice light 28 or 20 SxS with removable chokes, but they were all very expensive. I had a beretta 471 20 g SxS briefly but the fit for me was terrible. Everything else was 6k plus. Depending on fit, I think a 20 or 28 g Beretta 686, Browning Citori Superlight Feather or Citori 725 make great field guns for upland game.
 
I have a few 'upland only' shotguns... a couple of older English SxS in 12 gauge, a couple of AyA SxS in 28 gauge and a Ruger Red Label also in 28. I have a few that do double duty (upland and waterfowl) and a few that are waterfowl only.
I think it's worth having a good upland gun, in whatever gauge. It just has to be lightweight for long carries, and fit you well.
 
It's not up to the levels of the guns mentioned here, but I ended up with an old remington model 11 in 20 gauge. Should serve me well this October.
 
I have a dedicated hunting shotgun and a dedicated Trap gun. My hunting shotgun is a Beretta A400 Xplor. I suppose I can use it for pretty much everything from partridge to Goose since it has 3-1/2" capability.
 
heronfish said:
It's not up to the levels of the guns mentioned here, but I ended up with an old remington model 11 in 20 gauge. Should serve me well this October.
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favour; familiarise yourself with the choke constriction and keep 'er clean.

The choke probably should be modified. If you use Gamebore 20 ga "Traditional Game" loads (distributed by Kent Cartridge in Canada) and light target loads, you can vary things nicely with that choke. I'd load one Gamebore shell in the chamber, then two light target loads in the magasine. The Gamebore load is low pressure, though, and it may not cycle well in a model 11. If it works, the neat thing is that these shells are made with fiber wads that allow the gun's chokes to do their job. Follow that with two common target loads (1 1/8 oz, 6 shot, 2 3/4" for the first into the magasine, and 1 oz. 7 1/2 shot, 2 3/4" for the second shell into the magasine). Your first shot is a light load with small shot through a modified barrel. Perfect for close shots. The next shell out of the magasine is the last one that went in - 1 oz 7 1/2 target load. Target loads are made with plastic shot cups. These pretty much ignore the chokes in the gun and turn everything into full choke (unless they're "spreader" shells). So, your second shot becomes a faster (say 1250 ft/sec), tighter pattern for any birds that get away from the first shot. The last shell from the magasine offers a tight, more dense pattern at distance.

But, you get the picture. Start with a mid-range choke, then let the shells do your fine tuning from there.

You may find that you're deadly with that little gun. You may also find that where you hunt, there are often two or more birds to a flush. In such a situation, 3 Gamebore loads in a row might make more sense. When you get into the 'hard to kill' buggers, like sharptail grouse or pheasant, you just use larger sizes such as 5 or 4-shot.

The last bit was a tip that model 11s don't work well gummed up. Keep it clean as possible, no lubrication beyond Hoppes solvent necessary.
 
straightshooter said:
Do yourself a favour; familiarise yourself with the choke constriction and keep 'er clean.

The choke probably should be modified. If you use Gamebore 20 ga "Traditional Game" loads (distributed by Kent Cartridge in Canada) and light target loads, you can vary things nicely with that choke. I'd load one Gamebore shell in the chamber, then two light target loads in the magasine. The Gamebore load is low pressure, though, and it may not cycle well in a model 11. If it works, the neat thing is that these shells are made with fiber wads that allow the gun's chokes to do their job. Follow that with two common target loads (1 1/8 oz, 6 shot, 2 3/4" for the first into the magasine, and 1 oz. 7 1/2 shot, 2 3/4" for the second shell into the magasine). Your first shot is a light load with small shot through a modified barrel. Perfect for close shots. The next shell out of the magasine is the last one that went in - 1 oz 7 1/2 target load. Target loads are made with plastic shot cups. These pretty much ignore the chokes in the gun and turn everything into full choke (unless they're "spreader" shells). So, your second shot becomes a faster (say 1250 ft/sec), tighter pattern for any birds that get away from the first shot. The last shell from the magasine offers a tight, more dense pattern at distance.

But, you get the picture. Start with a mid-range choke, then let the shells do your fine tuning from there.

You may find that you're deadly with that little gun. You may also find that where you hunt, there are often two or more birds to a flush. In such a situation, 3 Gamebore loads in a row might make more sense. When you get into the 'hard to kill' buggers, like sharptail grouse or pheasant, you just use larger sizes such as 5 or 4-shot.

The last bit was a tip that model 11s don't work well gummed up. Keep it clean as possible, no lubrication beyond Hoppes solvent necessary.
Click to expand...

Thank you.
The gun is actually a fixed ic choke from factory, so pretty open. Maybe too open, but we will see. If nothing else, it will be an improvement on carrying around a heavy 12 I hope.
 
heronfish said:
It's not up to the levels of the guns mentioned here, but I ended up with an old remington model 11 in 20 gauge. Should serve me well this October.
Click to expand...
No bird will ever know the difference. I used a 20 gauge remignton 812 for 14+ years and just found a crack leading from the hinge pin along the receiver. She sits above my couch in my shop safe from the poplars, alders and aspens out for varnish. I ended up with a nice cooey 84 in 20 gauge to replace her. For myself grouse hunting and a single shot 20 gauges go together like PB&J. I'm also pretty adament about not getting something nice as any movement off trail is a back turned and plowing/push/swim through bush, not exactly nice on stocks.
 
I have a love / hate with my upland gun. It's a Mossberg 500 field 20g pump. It shoots beautifully, it's got pretty wood, it works flawlessly. My arms are too short for it, and I find it a little clumsy to shoulder. When I get access to the EE it will be going on there.
 
I ave a mess of 'em, but my main gun for many years has been my Westley Richards hammer 12, CYL/CYL.
Coupled with Louie the GSP there are not many birds that get away unless they flush wild before he gets on point!
Cat


 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom