do you have to customize an SR 22

B

black_raven

Regular
Rating - 100%
6   0   0
Location
ontario
Hi All
i'm considering an SR22 as first rifle since i'm a newbie. However, reading the posts, lots of people are putting on VQ extractor, hammer, etc. Is this really necessary? I thought the 10/22 was very reliable. I know about the heavy pull, but other than that, will it be ok without the mods? Was thinking of stock SR 22 w/ a scope and maybe the extractor since everyone seems to think it is required.

thanks
 
My sr22 is stock (except for the vortex sparc red dot). I've put lots of rounds downrange with no I'll effects (think thousands). You can upgrade if you want but it's not absolutely necessary.
 
Brordo said:
My sr22 is stock (except for the vortex sparc red dot). I've put lots of rounds downrange with no I'll effects (think thousands). You can upgrade if you want but it's not absolutely necessary.
Click to expand...
Yup... Right same goes for the 10/22...

If you want to customize something on it you can... IMHO none of it is absolutely necessary to customize.
 
I've been using AE and CCI Blazer. I have to say that I prefer the CCI with it's "lubed" brass...I find the AE dirtier overall...but both function fine.
 
I think the only mod that is necessary is the volq exact edge extractor. I have owned numerous 10/22's and they operate so much better without any hicups after it. Its always been the week point of a 10/22... the extractor.
 
I don't think the extractor is necessary until the factory one wears out... Both of my 10/22's fed and ejected fine until after 5000+ shots on the factory extractor. They did get the VQ when they needed it but they were fine to start without it.
 
sl66ICEcuba said:
I think the only mod that is necessary is the volq exact edge extractor. I have owned numerous 10/22's and they operate so much better without any hicups after it. Its always been the week point of a 10/22... the extractor.
Click to expand...
Why do you need to replace the extractor unless you are having trouble extracting unfired rounds from the gun? It does very little except hold the spent case till the case hits the ejector during the firing cycle.
Kim
 
elimsprint said:
Why do you need to replace the extractor unless you are having trouble extracting unfired rounds from the gun? It does very little except hold the spent case till the case hits the ejector during the firing cycle.
Kim
Click to expand...

If you put a brand new 10/22 extractor beside a used Volq extractor the Volq extractor will still be on a sharper angle and be closer to the bolt face. If your 10/22 extracts fine with the stock one then you are one of the lucky few. I personally with (all me new and used 10/22's) have never had one that fed right before or after break in with the stock extractor. Many people on hear would agree that the volq extractor is the best 12 dollars you can spend on your ruger hands down.
 
Brordo said:
My sr22 is stock (except for the vortex sparc red dot). I've put lots of rounds downrange with no I'll effects (think thousands). You can upgrade if you want but it's not absolutely necessary.
Click to expand...

Having modified a number of 10-22's and now having an SR22 the only thing you really need to do is change the trigger IMHO. That is the only part of a Ruger .22 that really needs immediate attention.
I think the SR22 looks pretty good the way it is, certainly people at the range gravitate towards it because of it's appearance. It's fun to make it more unique but certainly not necessary.
 
sl66ICEcuba said:
If you put a brand new 10/22 extractor beside a used Volq extractor the Volq extractor will still be on a sharper angle and be closer to the bolt face. If your 10/22 extracts fine with the stock one then you are one of the lucky few. I personally with (all me new and used 10/22's) have never had one that fed right before or after break in with the stock extractor. Many people on hear would agree that the volq extractor is the best 12 dollars you can spend on your ruger hands down.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "If your 10/22 extracts fine"? Do you mean a live round or a spent case? What do you mean by "fed right"? Have they had feeding or ejection problems? These are totally different problems with usually different causes though there can be single causes like pooly fitting/faulty mags or a dirty gun/chamber. I just don't see what an extractor does other than hold the spent case square to the bolt face till the case hits the ejector. It certainly has nothing to do with extracting a spent case during the firing cycle. A better gripping extractor will help cure ejection problems like stove-piping and FTE events but it is not a cure all for any poorly running 10/22 IMHO. The stock one can be easily filed to have more of an angle if that is needed but usually a good cleaning of the action, bolt face and extractor groove will cure any FTE problem
Kim
 
It certainly has nothing to do with extracting a spent case during the firing cycle.If you think this remove the extractor and see how well the rifle will cycle.thats what the extractor does .it grips the fired case and pulls it from the chamber.measure an unfired round and a fired case and you will see a very slight increase the the diameter of the fired case.like said above its the best money spent on a 1022.
 
If the spent case needs to be extracted could you please explain to me how the bolt moves back? This is not a gas operated action you know. Think about how your gun works. The gun fires, the bullet starts travelling down the barrel, the pressure then overcomes the inertia of the bolt, hammer spring and recoil spring and the spent case pushes the bolt back in a simple blowback action like a 10/22. It is doing all the work like a small piston. If you remove the extractor and hold the gun on its side with the ejection port facing down they actually don't work too bad:D The extractor just holds the spent case so that when the case hits the ejector it spins out the ejection port with fair consistency.
Kim
 
It doesnt matter if it is a live round or a spent case. The ejector just pushes the case forward while the hooked extractor (which moves from left to right) pulls the shell to the right which is where the ejection port is. This is why the Volq extractor is so much better because the hook on it is on a sharper angel thus biting the corner of the case better and allowing the extractor to do its job better. The reason the stock extractor doesnt work as well is because most of the time (not all) it doesnt bite the rim of the shell as well and it loses grip when the ejector goes to push it out, thus resulting in stove piping (aka rounds that dont fully eject and get caught by the bolt)
 
Thanks for the info. Glad to know it should work OK for a while. I think i'll order the extractor as soon as i get the SR and have it ready. How much time did it take you guys to change either the extractor or the hammer?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom