Does anyone here reload with the Dillon XL 650?

TheCircle

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Hello,

I have just a few questions if you run a dillon XL 650 set up for .223.

At which point do you trim your brass? Do you clean the brass then trim and then resize/decap?

Do you deprime and then clean out the primer pocket?

Any more information would be very appreciated.

Thanks!
 
i use an RCBS small base X-Die, no need to trim. i run all the brass thru the press to resize/deprime, then pin clean it. i then have another toolhead w the rest of my dies and load them up.
cueball
 
Depends on what you are loading for. I tumble, then have a tool head setup for case prep. On it I have a recapping die, then Dillon trimmer and finally a sizing die that's backed out to just neck size, as the training die for the trimmer is also a sizing die. I then tumble again until shiny and have a second tool head set up for loading. I shoot a lot of 223 so it's worth it to me.
 
Alright, I have the three Dillon rifle dies for .223. It comes with a deprimer/sizer die. Do I need to trim the .223 brass to 1.75" BEFORE or AFTER running threw the deprimer/sizer die?
Let it be known I am still waiting for my shipment. So I am just trying to figure out these things before I get it. I would like to have my brass ready for loading.
 
I`m new to the 650 and just getting into 223 too

As I understand it you need to resize before trimming

So with this in mind the brass needs to be relatively clean and lubed to resize properly, so I plan to give the brass a quick clean with my ultrasonic, this will make it clean enough to lube/resize/deprime.

Once that is complete you could trim

Then I would tumble with SS pins. Its hard to believe how much more grime comes off the previously ultrasonically cleaned brass, also the primer pockets are perfect and the sizing lube is removed
 
Alright, I have the three Dillon rifle dies for .223. It comes with a deprimer/sizer die. Do I need to trim the .223 brass to 1.75" BEFORE or AFTER running threw the deprimer/sizer die?
Let it be known I am still waiting for my shipment. So I am just trying to figure out these things before I get it. I would like to have my brass ready for loading.

Always trim after sizing, not before.
 
Set up a tool head that deprimes (Lee decapper), swages(if needed), sizes. Use Dillon lube as it's fastest/easiest to apply. After that's done, get yourself a Giraud Tri Way trimmer. Way cheaper than a Dillon trimmer, not only trims but chamfers and deburrs using a drill as power source. You should chamfer and deburr anyway, at least I'm picky, so I do that in front of a TV. Use headphones as the drill is loud. You gotta hear the Packers play as well as watch. Then set up a loading head as you like.
 
You know what he does say in the comments that he has started decapping and resizing before trimming.

the whole reason for trimming bottle neck brass is because the resizing process increases the length of the neck. To answer your other questions in your OP, yes you deprime before you can clean the primer pocket. If your just making plinking ammo you don't HAVE to clean the primer pockets.

If you don't have a reloading manual yet get one while your stuff arrives and read it before you start loading.
 
OP, here's my set up
1. Tumble Brass
2. Lube Brass
3. Resize/ deprime
4/5 Trim, chamfer ,deburr
5/4. Tumble to get rid of the old Lube
6. Load
Using a 550 with 2 tool heads
tool head 1- resizing die only
tool head 2-
station one 1, Priming, Depriming Die ( to get rid of some cleaning media that might got stuck at primer pocket)
station 2- Powder Die
station 3- seating die
statiion 4 - crimp, although I dont use crimp on my reloads
since you got the 650, you have a spare or extra spot on your tool head.
 
Polish the brass. Trim and chamfer. Then run it through your XL650.
There is a million people doing it both ways, pick yours. It would be different if I was doing precision shooting, but a XL650 isn't for rifle precision shooting. 223 isn't going to grow more than a few 1000's of an inch after resizing.
Deprime, reprime & add powder, powder check and seat bullet. Done. You could add a crimp die but it can be done with the bullet seating die.
 
I've prob got 10,000 re-do's thru my 650 and haven't trimmed a case yet.
i'll prob catch shyt here but.....
I load for my ARs and a 7615 pump, use decent found range brass and campro bullets
manual de-prime by hand (franklin), wash (sonic), manual swage (dillon), full length resize/prime/charge/seat/crimp
I've yet to see a load that hasn't lined up in the cannelure or fed thru my guns even after re-uses of same brass
 
OP, here's my set up
1. Tumble Brass
2. Lube Brass
3. Resize/ deprime
4/5 Trim, chamfer ,deburr
5/4. Tumble to get rid of the old Lube
6. Load
Using a 550 with 2 tool heads
tool head 1- resizing die only
tool head 2-
station one 1, Priming, Depriming Die ( to get rid of some cleaning media that might got stuck at primer pocket)
station 2- Powder Die
station 3- seating die
statiion 4 - crimp, although I dont use crimp on my reloads
since you got the 650, you have a spare or extra spot on your tool head.

Hey thanks, That is what I was thinking of doing as well.
The extra space in my tool head is for my powder check.
 
I've prob got 10,000 re-do's thru my 650 and haven't trimmed a case yet.
i'll prob catch shyt here but.....
I load for my ARs and a 7615 pump, use decent found range brass and campro bullets
manual de-prime by hand (franklin), wash (sonic), manual swage (dillon), full length resize/prime/charge/seat/crimp
I've yet to see a load that hasn't lined up in the cannelure or fed thru my guns even after re-uses of same brass

If your chamber is spec and your load isn't hot, and you're not oversizing then they don't grow much. That's probably what's happening with your loads. You only need to trim if you need to trim.

Good idea to check brass length before reloading. If the brass gets too long it is quite possible to see a jump in peak pressure in some rifles. It's like putting gas in your car - check the fuel gauge and then decide if it needs filling, not the other way round. :)
 
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