Is a crimp and absolute necessity when reloading 223 for a semi auto? They case neck already seems to have alot of bullet tension, just wondering if anyone has actually had a bullet get pushed into the case from not crimping?
Does anyone not crimp 223 for their AR?
- Thread starter Craig0ry
- Start date
Avalonthas
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toronto ON
I don't crimp
- Location
- Calgary, AB
I would highly suggest a Lee crimp die.
Shelldrake
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Right behind you,,
I crimp. Didn't used too, but have experienced a couple of stoppages where the bullet was pushed in,, so now I crimp.
I use the Lee Factory Crimp die,, and put a moderate crimp on it.
I haven't noticed any measurable change in accuracy (69 gr SMK), but I haven't been looking too hard.
Works for me.
I use the Lee Factory Crimp die,, and put a moderate crimp on it.
I haven't noticed any measurable change in accuracy (69 gr SMK), but I haven't been looking too hard.
Works for me.
I also use the Lee factory crimp die, and apply a mild crimp for semi-autos. I can't say if it makes a difference but it's peace of mind.
If you go this route, adjust the die carefully, as I've badly deformed some bullets (think mushroom shaped) by applying too much crimp; that little sucker has some leverage in a big press!
If you go this route, adjust the die carefully, as I've badly deformed some bullets (think mushroom shaped) by applying too much crimp; that little sucker has some leverage in a big press!
Just give it a good squeeze with Vise grips!
Jokes aside, it all depends on the application I would guess. My understanding is that crimping is utilized to increase the durability of the ammunition when handled rough...magazine, xc rough handling, or military applications.
I did not crimp for years and did not have any issues.
Then I switched to ball powder and found that sometimes the powder did not ignite, but the primer popped the bullet into the barrel, causing a stoppage.
I switched to a magnum primer, for new loads, and this cured the problem. For all the ammo already loaded with a standard primer, I applied a Lee Factory crimp, and this added enough pressure for the standard primer to work. I load on a Dillon, so there is a die station available for the crimper.
Conclusion: A Lee factory crimp is an extra level of protection for both ignition and bullet getting pushed back.
Then I switched to ball powder and found that sometimes the powder did not ignite, but the primer popped the bullet into the barrel, causing a stoppage.
I switched to a magnum primer, for new loads, and this cured the problem. For all the ammo already loaded with a standard primer, I applied a Lee Factory crimp, and this added enough pressure for the standard primer to work. I load on a Dillon, so there is a die station available for the crimper.
Conclusion: A Lee factory crimp is an extra level of protection for both ignition and bullet getting pushed back.
What ball powder? I have some W748. Or is it just because ball powder in general burns a small bit slower? I notice when I shoot rounds with W748 it seems to hit me harder.
- Location
- Calgary, AB
The Lee die is very good, and I used it also when loading for levers. Better being safe than sorry.
- Location
- lloydminster
yea lea factory crimp. bought the 3 die set at cabelas for like 40 bucks. just gives you alittle added security if your running and gunning where everything bounces around.
Easy way to tell if you need a crimp for your semi auto.
Seat bullet without crimp, then push the bullet really hard against the edge of your loading table.
If the bullet pushes in, crimp it. If the bullet doesn't move, it's gtg.
Seat bullet without crimp, then push the bullet really hard against the edge of your loading table.
If the bullet pushes in, crimp it. If the bullet doesn't move, it's gtg.
