I don't think carbon has any protective qualities, but it's more like a layer of soil "might" protect it from a layer of salt a little bit more than nothing at all being in the way. And like i said, it's a big might, and it's more about my #2, which means if i want to shoot 20 rounds just to let someone new try it out i can use non corrosive and not have to do a full cleaning immediatly. If i'm going to be letting loose hundreds of rounds in an afternoon and it will be getting a good cleaning anyway, it'll be corrosive because it's cheaper, and if the initial carbon buildup helps in any little sort of way it's a bonus.
Does firing a few non corrosive rounds after a bunch of corrosive "clean" your gun?
- Thread starter Rifter
- Start date
I don't think carbon has any protective qualities, but it's more like a layer of soil "might" protect it from a layer of salt a little bit more than nothing at all being in the way. And like i said, it's a big might, and it's more about my #2, which means if i want to shoot 20 rounds just to let someone new try it out i can use non corrosive and not have to do a full cleaning immediatly. If i'm going to be letting loose hundreds of rounds in an afternoon and it will be getting a good cleaning anyway, it'll be corrosive because it's cheaper, and if the initial carbon buildup helps in any little sort of way it's a bonus.
Too bad your theory is based on some sort of intuitive supposition vice actual chemistry. Oil protects metal by displacing moisture - this occurs at the molecular level although you can see it in a gross sense when you see how water and oil interact in a glass beaker. Dirt, carbon and corrosive salts don't share this reaction. A layer of dirt or carbon won't act as a barrier as the salt will just penetrate through the "layer" of dirt/carbon fouling as repeated firings will cause salt molecules to go through the dirt/carbon molecules. BTW I am not trying to be an a**hole or pick on you but this is whole hypothesis is pretty darn dumb.
Perhaps.
Or maybe synthetic motor oil is designed to deal with much greater stress and dirt and carbon (what you think an internal combustion engine has no carbon?) compared to any gun oil, and the gun oil people are selling something that's not any better but costs 5 times the price.
This of course is possible, could always send some gun oil into a chem lab to get it analyzed.
Yup!
Sounds like when I had an argument with a parts guy at a dealership when he heard me mention the Kawasaki oil I was buying, was going into my Honda. He had this idea in his head that only Honda oil should go in a Honda and only Kawasaki oil in a Kawasaki. Just because something is marked for X job. Doesn't mean it won't work for Y.
For example. Automatic Transmission fluid is an excellent detergent. I use it all the time in the garage. Not just for topping up transmissions.
And today's winner of the Interwebs is:...
JPARENT!!!
(Please keep your speech under 45 seconds, or the music will start to play. )
.30/06 FTW
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario
I was going to try this several times to see if it worked, but each time I ended up cleaning the gun because I didn't want it to rust if it didn't work.
skneub
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
myth confirmed, more firearms are ruined by improper cleaning, than by being worn out.
Prairiestorm
Member
- Location
- East central Alberta
Hahaha ahh can't stop laughing at that one! Well said my friend!
Thats signature material !
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A better statement would be that there's probably no such thing as non corrosive 7.62x39 surplus ammo.
I can take some brass, clean it and reload it and it will be non corrosive. There is nothing magical about the calibre that prevents non corrosive ammo from being made.
American Eagle makes some nice boxer primed brass cased non-corrosive 7.62 x 39 for example
Time to find another gun shop. Pure Bovine Scatology.
