Dominion Arms Outlaw keeps jamming closed

metamatt

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So I bought one of these 12" double barrel SxS shotguns new from CanAm roughly 5 years ago. I shot 4 or 6 shells through it the one time I took it out, don't remember the brand of ammo but pretty sure it worked fine.
Now I went to shoot it yesterday, loaded 2 shells, fired, couldn't get action open. Brought it home with casings stuck inside. Struggled with it at home, couldn't get it open until I removed the forend and applied some serious elbow grease and several fluid, forceful "jerk" attempts to "break" the action. Reinstall forend, load 2 shells, close action.. Same thing even without firing, can't open the action without removing forend and forcing it open with some he-strength...

The gun is still virtually unfired and brand new... Not sure if I just got lucky with the ammo type the first time I took it out, but doesn't seem to like any ammo I have here now. I remember seeing some threads when these were big sellers about some issues, I'm wondering if this was maybe common? Is there a fix, something that needs to be filed down? The gun opens and closes fine without shells in it
 
What kind of ammo did you use this time? Winchester target loads can be really sticky in some firearms.

challenger 7.5 target is what I actually shot 2 shells of

It's jamming closed without firing with the challenger 7.5 target shot, winchester 4 or 6 steel, imperial steel Bb and winchester slugs..

All 3 inch

I'm pretty sure it's the gun, maybe the ejector getting stuck. The shaft is realllyyy rough, like so much roughness it almost makes me think i could be messing it up to make it smooth... there's really not much to these guns, it doesnt seem to be visually hanging up on anything, must be the ejector jamming or shell getting stuck in barrel and holding ejector back
 
I'm not a gunsmith, but what I think is happening, is the chamber where the rim relief is cut, isn't cut deep enough or has some roughness. Or maybe some other chamber issue. When the gun is closed with shells in it they may stick out a few thousandths and close. But once it's closed it creates extra tension on the lock.

See if you can see if you can tell visually if they are seating flush. Do they fall into the chamber easily with an audible "thunk"? Measure rim thickness and see if it makes a difference. I think I'd try filing one a bit thinner and trying it. Is it different depending on which chamber is loaded? Try one and then the other. Easier with one chamber loaded than the other, or both?
 
I had one for years. Did the same thing when I got it. I took it all apart and polished everything. Including the chambers, extractor. Cleaned everything inside the trigger. I have to do this with just about every Norinco (Dom Arms) I have owned. On a positive note....once it was done I had no issues with it. Nothing getting stuck and everything was nice and smooth.
 
I have the Norinco JW 2000 12" SxS.

Both barrels say 2.75"

Maybe 3" shells are too long, once fired, and are hampering extraction?
 
Had the same thing happen with mine, after 4 rounds from brand new it would not open, i ended up breaking it over my knee to open it as hard as i could

The barrel lug broke off and the shotgun was laying on the ground in 3 pieces, sent it back and they gave me a refund

Never will i buy china build garbage again
 
Had the same thing happen with mine, after 4 rounds from brand new it would not open, i ended up breaking it over my knee to open it as hard as i could

The barrel lug broke off and the shotgun was laying on the ground in 3 pieces, sent it back and they gave me a refund

Never will i buy china build garbage again


Fortunately that has not happened on any of the times I've forced it open yet...

Guess I should shoot new guns a little more after buying them lol...

I have other shotguns I use for hunting and skeet shooting, this one just kinda got lost in the back of the safe for a while
 
I have a CZ Mallard O/U.
When it was new worked perfectly.
After a while it started "jamming" and had to do the break over the knee trick.
The secret is a pencil.
Take the gun apart and using an ordinary #2 pencil colour EVERYTHING you can get to specifically concentrating on contact/friction points.
It may not look like you are really doing anything BUT you leave just enough graphite on the surfaces gun should open like new.
 
I have a CZ Mallard O/U.
When it was new worked perfectly.
After a while it started "jamming" and had to do the break over the knee trick.
The secret is a pencil.
Take the gun apart and using an ordinary #2 pencil colour EVERYTHING you can get to specifically concentrating on contact/friction points.
It may not look like you are really doing anything BUT you leave just enough graphite on the surfaces gun should open like new.

Can also get little graphite bottles at a locksmith or maybe in the "locks" or lubricant section of a hardware store. A little easier.

But a tight gun should only get a little looser and should fall open. Getting harder to the point that you need to take it over your knee points to a problem. IMHO anyway.

This thread might be better served in the gunsmithing section. I'd kind of like to hear more takes on this myself and see it get resolved.
 
Years ago when they first came out I remember guys posting about them being hard to open and some Nutz suggested that it might be firing pins either too long or too far forward for some reason.

Just thought I'd mention it.

Mine has been great. Fixed the loose forend with a gun cleaning patch on the latch.

Mine is my truck gun.

79Pvx0Pl.jpg
 
Years ago when they first came out I remember guys posting about them being hard to open and some Nutz suggested that it might be firing pins either too long or too far forward for some reason.

Just thought I'd mention it.

Mine has been great. Fixed the loose forend with a gun cleaning patch on the latch.

Mine is my truck gun.

79Pvx0Pl.jpg

Nice.


Well I am really hoping that's not the situation with mine, I'll be kicking myself for not putting more rounds through it when I bought it. I honestly don't think that's the case though, I cleaned up the chambers and took the ejector apart and cleaned and lubed everything really well and it seemed to substantially alleviate the problem, as far as I can tell without actually firing it anyway.. BUT in just a few days of sporadically opening and closing the action its getting back to jamming when closed with it loaded.

I think I'll lightly polish everything up where reasonable and see if I can get it working smoothly that way before firing it again
 
I have a CZ Mallard O/U.
When it was new worked perfectly.
After a while it started "jamming" and had to do the break over the knee trick.
The secret is a pencil.
Take the gun apart and using an ordinary #2 pencil colour EVERYTHING you can get to specifically concentrating on contact/friction points.
It may not look like you are really doing anything BUT you leave just enough graphite on the surfaces gun should open like new.

That's interesting, I think lubrication in the right areas may actually be alleviating the issue quite a bit...Never thought of using a pencil, I'll look into trying that
 
Mine does this too, the chambers look like they were cut with a reamer from the civil war, I can almost see the high spots in the chambers. Debating taking the barrel to work and running it through the honing machine. The extractor shaft is definitely rough as hell too, need to take everything apart and polish.
 
I did a lot of polishing the action to smoothing things up.. it open/closes great now...

Now I just need a new right hand lock... the hammer plunger had been touched up with a grinder when they built it, ground too much off and it got too hot... Temper is gone and soft so it smooshed over....
Never fired and brand new...
 
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