Dominion arms tomahawk

55HRC or less will not hold an edge very well. But then 5160 mostly being a cheap automotive spring leaf steel (not even bearing grade) was not designed to hold an edge. Sounds really cheap to begin with.

With all due respect, I think many people have too much time to fuss over technical advantages of this or that steel/temper.
Unless you're a chef or a logger that will use that blade 8H a day... holding an edge is kind of a moot point. My first pocket knife was a cheapo spanish lock-blade. It did the job, just had to be re-sharpen more often.
 
With all due respect, I think many people have too much time to fuss over technical advantages of this or that steel/temper.
Unless you're a chef or a logger that will use that blade 8H a day... holding an edge is kind of a moot point. My first pocket knife was a cheapo spanish lock-blade. It did the job, just had to be re-sharpen more often.

Holding an edge is a moot point for an instrument made to cut or chop? Well, you got an opinion there I don't share. I'd rather fuss about technical details once than wasting my time to resharpen some POS blade frequently. But to each their own I guess.
 
Holding an edge is a moot point for an instrument made to cut or chop? Well, you got an opinion there I don't share. I'd rather fuss about technical details once than wasting my time to resharpen some POS blade frequently. But to each their own I guess.

Someone else has already asked, but I'll ask too: What are you gonna cut or chop with a tomahawk?

Personnaly I see them as decorative more than anything else, so as far as I'm concerned, the blades could be aluminum. I'm not gonna chop wood log with a tomahawk (I've got an axe for that), and I'm not gonna prepare dinner with it either (I got knifes for that). In 2016, tomahawk are used either in tomahak throwing competition (which I wouldn't even know how to enter such a compretition), or as a jack-of-all-trade tool, used as a prybar, a smashing tool, or even a bottle opener (which partially explain why eveyone in this thread wants this or that feature). It might very well be the best case of solution looking for a problem (a very cool-looking solution, I'll admit). So in that case, wtf debate if this or that steel would be better? If everyone is gonna have a different usage for it, then I suggest that scrap metal would be a good enough steel for a tomahawk.

I think most people make quite a fuss about steel resistance in their cutting tools. My President's choice knife set is roughly 440A steel, which is as soft as steel gets, and those knifes can chop carrots and chicken cartilage all day long. I do need to sharpen them once in a while, but the softness makes it really quick to sharpen. Given that I have no clue what I'd do with a tomahawk in the first place, then I can come to the conclusion that the softest steel there is would be hard enough for my need.

But 5160 is cooler, cause, you know, swords.
 
we could do a kydex sheath. post some pics of what you guys like

steel could be anything from 10XX types to 440 to D2

we are going to be making several knives over the next year.

we'd love to have your input on designs.

As far as knives, I'm not sure if you'd be able to do folders, but I just watched some YouTube videos with some really giant folding knives .... Pretty unique really as there doesn't seem to be a lot of really large folders and the prices are ridiculous.

As for the steel of the tomahawk ... 1055 or better would be ideal.
 
I want them made out of depleted uranium or tungsten or titanium actually adamantium would be great too sharpen once.

Also i want a grizzly shotgun that shoots sks gatlin guns that shoot tomahawks that have bayonets for handles with friken laser beams attached their friken heads!!!
 
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I use one of these in my vehicle as the equivalent of a crash axe. Its nice, but would like something a bit shorter for storage in the vehicle, plus Orange would be nice, as a safety item, rather than ninja.
 
I want them made out of depleted uranium or tungsten or titanium actually adamantium would be great too sharpen once.

Also i want a grizzly shotgun that shoots sks gatlin guns that shoot tomahawks that have bayonets for handles with friken laser beams attached their friken heads!!!

2nded for DU
 
How about an SKS with a grizzly shotgun mount underneath!

I want them made out of depleted uranium or tungsten or titanium actually adamantium would be great too sharpen once.

Also i want a grizzly shotgun that shoots sks gatlin guns that shoot tomahawks that have bayonets for handles with friken laser beams attached their friken heads!!!

Someone else has already asked, but I'll ask too: What are you gonna cut or chop with a tomahawk?

Personnaly I see them as decorative more than anything else, so as far as I'm concerned, the blades could be aluminum. I'm not gonna chop wood log with a tomahawk (I've got an axe for that), and I'm not gonna prepare dinner with it either (I got knifes for that). In 2016, tomahawk are used either in tomahak throwing competition (which I wouldn't even know how to enter such a compretition), or as a jack-of-all-trade tool, used as a prybar, a smashing tool, or even a bottle opener (which partially explain why eveyone in this thread wants this or that feature). It might very well be the best case of solution looking for a problem (a very cool-looking solution, I'll admit). So in that case, wtf debate if this or that steel would be better? If everyone is gonna have a different usage for it, then I suggest that scrap metal would be a good enough steel for a tomahawk.

I think most people make quite a fuss about steel resistance in their cutting tools. My President's choice knife set is roughly 440A steel, which is as soft as steel gets, and those knifes can chop carrots and chicken cartilage all day long. I do need to sharpen them once in a while, but the softness makes it really quick to sharpen. Given that I have no clue what I'd do with a tomahawk in the first place, then I can come to the conclusion that the softest steel there is would be hard enough for my need.

But 5160 is cooler, cause, you know, swords.

Holding an edge is a moot point for an instrument made to cut or chop? Well, you got an opinion there I don't share. I'd rather fuss about technical details once than wasting my time to resharpen some POS blade frequently. But to each their own I guess.

With all due respect, I think many people have too much time to fuss over technical advantages of this or that steel/temper.
Unless you're a chef or a logger that will use that blade 8H a day... holding an edge is kind of a moot point. My first pocket knife was a cheapo spanish lock-blade. It did the job, just had to be re-sharpen more often.



You're all wrong. It should be made out of rainbows, unicorns and wizard farts. It should be as hard as a limp noodle so it can't be sharpened and we'll never hurt ourselves
 
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