Drill and tap RECIEVER?

kennymo said:
Is it a P-17 or is it stamped as manufactured in 1917? It was the last year they were built in 303, the USA switched production over to 30-06 as they entered the war. My own P-14 is a 1917 Eddystone, I don't recall that Pattern 14 is actually stamped on it anywhere....
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On this receiver it is stamped ERA. On the other side it is stamped p17 (pattern 17 is what I believe it means). There are no stamps indicating it's caliber. I did however slug the barrel and it came out at .312
 
Bigbore 35 said:
On this receiver it is stamped ERA. On the other side it is stamped p17 (pattern 17 is what I believe it means). There are no stamps indicating it's caliber. I did however slug the barrel and it came out at .312
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P-17 or a poorly struck 1917? Look closely, a lot of those old markings were made hastily and often took a lot of wear. As I said, the Americans building them didn't call it the P17. It doesn't make much sense to me either that it would have been rebarrelled for 303 when there are so many of the 303 versions already around and cheap as borsch.
 
The jig I have is from BROWNELL'S USA and is a very nice piece of equipment with proper drill and tap bushings.
bearhunter said:
OP, something I don't see mentioned is that drilling the ROUND receiver can lead to some very real issues. Those issues are mostly related to alignment.

I just missed a good deal on a set of parallel bars that were designed specifically for drilling holes in rifle receivers. It didn't dawn on me what the gadget was until an hour later and when I went back to the table it was gone. I don't D&T a lot of receivers but once in a while, it is necessary. I made a mess of an M1 Carbine receiver that I was installing a scope and non restricted barrel on. I drilled the first two holes with ease. Not having a lot of D&T experience with these receivers I made the big mistake of ASSUMING the rest of the receiver would be just as soft. BIG MISTAKE. The wear points were surface hardened and I ended up breaking off a drill bit. I also broke off a tap. The air in the shop was extremely BLUE for quite a while. I don't often get upset about such things but now this rifle wiil always be a PERSONAL firearm only. I wouldn't sell it to anyone. I ended up making a mess of the hole with the broken off tap and ended up filling it with Titanium Putty and refinishing it smooth. Fugly. Doesn't effect the operation though.

Back in the day, when you could buy stripped Mauser/Springfield receivers cheap I taught myself how to D&T these receivers. YES, I screwed up more than one of them. Thankfully, they were basically junk. Badly pitted etc.

Tiriaq is giving you some very good but very basic advice. He is also assuming that you know and understand the proper layout procedures and set up procedures in your milling machine or drill press and that you have an adequate vice to hold the receiver.

The parallel bars I mentioned were hardened and had holes drilled in them appropriate to any of the spacing required for most bases. The other advantage of these bars was they acted as guides for the drill bits. Guides for the drill bits may not sound like a big deal but when you over apply pressure to small drill bits they have a tendency to bow and this will cause the holes to either be drilled of center or on an angle.

Way more to drilling and tapping than most people realize. It is another skill that just doesn't get enough attention and is often done very poorly. Often to the point of ruining the part or piece being d&t.
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kennymo said:
P-17 or a poorly struck 1917? Look closely, a lot of those old markings were made hastily and often took a lot of wear. As I said, the Americans building them didn't call it the P17. It doesn't make much sense to me either that it would have been rebarrelled for 303 when there are so many I the 303 versions already around and cheap as borsch.
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It is very clear p 17.I would love to show it. Will get my friend to help me post pic's later.
 
Bigbore 35 said:
It is very clear p 17.I would love to show it. Will get my friend to help me post pic's later.
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Gonna have to go over my P14 and refresh my memory too. I've got a P17 as well, but the receiver has been so thoroughly sporterized that there aren't any original marks worth mentioning.
 
kennymo said:
Gonna have to go over my P14 and refresh my memory too. I've got a P17 as well, but the receiver has been so thoroughly sporterized that there aren't any original marks worth mentioning.
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Keep it coming guy's, I might discover I have something rare and about to screw it up for good LOL.
 
IMO it will be cheaper to do it at a smith.

Otherwise, clamp it in a mill/drill vise and centre and align the action. Locate the punch marks or locations using a centre in the chuck, spot drill, then use a cobalt stub drill, then back to the centre to tap. If you are having issues you can use a class 1 tap and work up to a class 3. Use chlorinate high sulphur tapping oil (smelly and black).
 
Bigbore 35 said:
I do have a proper jig and I was told that my rifle was only worth $80.00 bucks by Ron Hendrickson here in Edmonton(who did not really want to do the job for me) totally discouraged me for the second time so I will attempt it myself. He was going to charge me over $300 bucks to do it. I am basically forced to do it myself. I am also a sled mechanic and very fussy about my work. It will not look like crap when I am done.
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It sounds like Ron is a knowledgeable man and knows of what he speaks...
 
RobertMcC said:
Just weld it on... DONE
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That's been done before, and it works... use a one piece base (Leupold) and make sure it is square to the bore and the right angle for elevation. Hard to adjust after welding. It does not need much welding and it can be done quite neatly.
 
guntech said:
That's been done before, and it works... use a one piece base (Leupold) and make sure it is square to the bore and the right angle for elevation. Hard to adjust after welding. It does not need much welding and it can be done quite neatly.
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I half tempted to weld a base onto a single shot shotgun for a reddot for a sub cal adapter.
 
Only issue would be with welding finding the right heat setting that doesn't turn it into a plasma cutter. The base would melt before the receiver.
 
Do it with a TIG or MIG unit. I just saw one done that way at the Salmon Arm Gunshow. The welder that did the job did it very well. The only difference being it was done to a sportered 98 action that had been quite well set up on a decent stock and barreled/chambered in 458Win Mag. The screws were still in place to hold it all square but I must agree with tiriaq, welding is possible and for an $80 rifle, the monetary loss is negligible.
 
bearhunter said:
Do it with a TIG or MIG unit. I just saw one done that way at the Salmon Arm Gunshow. The welder that did the job did it very well. The only difference being it was done to a sportered 98 action that had been quite well set up on a decent stock and barreled/chambered in 458Win Mag. The screws were still in place to hold it all square but I must agree with tiriaq, welding is possible and for an $80 rifle, the monetary loss is negligible.
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What about soldering?
 
Bigbore 35 said:
How do you weld? I would like to know.
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I use a professional who is actively welding all sorts of stuff every day. He also understands guns and what I want done and does it while I stand there. He has 7 or 8 different Miller welding machines set up to do different jobs... I even got him to weld a broken carburetor mount on a small model airplane motor once...
 
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