- Location
- Chilliwack BC
Ive got a sported Enfeild, looking for a mount. Not interested in an ATI tension fit mount. Any links or recommendations? Any similar experiences?
Drill and tap scope mount for No1 MkIII*?
- Thread starter Knuckles Muldoon
- Start date
S&K Insta-mount for Lee-Enfield Number 1.
Costs money but cheaper than spending $75 drilling holes that don't line up half the time. And you can move it from rifle to rifle.
This is MILSURP. This is where we try to SAVE them.
I have one here that got a D&T job done on it. London Small Arms, 1904, SMLE Mark I***, Army conversion. Anyone care to guess how rare THAT is? What's it worth today?
Answer: about $300 less than if it didn't have those 2 holes.
S&K: no drilling, no tapping, solid as a rock AND you don't wreck your original rifle.
Costs money but cheaper than spending $75 drilling holes that don't line up half the time. And you can move it from rifle to rifle.
This is MILSURP. This is where we try to SAVE them.
I have one here that got a D&T job done on it. London Small Arms, 1904, SMLE Mark I***, Army conversion. Anyone care to guess how rare THAT is? What's it worth today?
Answer: about $300 less than if it didn't have those 2 holes.
S&K: no drilling, no tapping, solid as a rock AND you don't wreck your original rifle.
Agree with Smellie on the S&K. They are about the best you can do with a SMLE, but they do usually require a bit of wood to be removed below the Nock's Form and the attachment to the charger bridge is weak compared to the No.4 S&K. Apart from the lack of adaptable screw holes and flat surfaces, the exterior of the SMLE receiver is just not consistent enough to make no-drill mounts practical.
Something made to fit the rear sight base would be best probably, with a light-weight scout scope.
Something made to fit the rear sight base would be best probably, with a light-weight scout scope.
- Location
- Chilliwack BC
Drilling and tapping as a last resort. I hadn't seen that S&K one, i'll probably give it a try. I just didnt want a POS like the ATI, but looks like the S&K actually grabs the charger bridge rather than pushing against it. And shed a tear for this rifle as she will never see battle dress again, its been sported, shortened, and otherwise raped with herpes covered cat s**t long before I paid 125 bucks to turn it into my deer rifle. But with it I hope many Mule, Whitetail, and Blacktail meet their demise, delivered by this nearly 100 year old war machine!
Disadvantages of the Weaver TO-1 mount:
1: The small-size Rings are prone to CREEP under recoil. You can set them up nice and solid at the back end, but they creep FORWARD under recoil because it is very difficult to reef up the screws in those narrow-width rings TIGHT ENOUGH to stop it moving. Remember, those rings are ONLY Aluminum and can be stripped-out by somebody a lot weaker than myself (and I'm no Charles Atlas!).
2: The very narrow base is nowhere nearly as solid as a different base could be. Drop the rifle once or give it a good hrd knock and it COULD lose its zero. You do NOT want that when Bambi is in the cross-hairs!
3: The Charger Guide of the SMLE rifle is only as deep as it need be for its intended purpose: holding the Charger while the rounds were stripped into the Magazine. It was never designed to be drilled and tapped and it is quite thin enough that it is VERY easy to ruin the job. I think that, over the years, I have seen bout HALF as many that were VERY badly done, as I have seen ones which were acceptable, more or less. That's one chance in 3 of paying your money for a wrecked rifle and NO scope.
4: The S&K mount, when properly set-up, is under TENSION from the RING around the front of the receiver Ring. It is the tiny bit of inletting for this RING which puts many peopl off getting the S&K. That said, you can do the job yourself in about 20 minutes and it will be SOLID.
5: Another nice point about the S&K is that it can be ordered 2 ways: to take the (expensive but nice) S&K rings, OR to take standard, full-width WEAVER rings. You should SPECIFY which you want when you order.
And an answer: No, I am no longer in the gun business, having been retired for some time. But when I WAS in the business, I never saw a SINGLE S&K mount returned. I have an S&K on my Number 4 target rifle and I am getting one for my "pet" rifle: a 1907 SMLE Mark I*** Navy conversion which has the only surviving taper-bored barrel in civilian hands. Next Summer it will get the wringing-out which it should have had, century ago.
SMLE will bring in the Venison..... and the Elk.... and the Moose..... and anything else which gets in front of it.
Good luck!
1: The small-size Rings are prone to CREEP under recoil. You can set them up nice and solid at the back end, but they creep FORWARD under recoil because it is very difficult to reef up the screws in those narrow-width rings TIGHT ENOUGH to stop it moving. Remember, those rings are ONLY Aluminum and can be stripped-out by somebody a lot weaker than myself (and I'm no Charles Atlas!).
2: The very narrow base is nowhere nearly as solid as a different base could be. Drop the rifle once or give it a good hrd knock and it COULD lose its zero. You do NOT want that when Bambi is in the cross-hairs!
3: The Charger Guide of the SMLE rifle is only as deep as it need be for its intended purpose: holding the Charger while the rounds were stripped into the Magazine. It was never designed to be drilled and tapped and it is quite thin enough that it is VERY easy to ruin the job. I think that, over the years, I have seen bout HALF as many that were VERY badly done, as I have seen ones which were acceptable, more or less. That's one chance in 3 of paying your money for a wrecked rifle and NO scope.
4: The S&K mount, when properly set-up, is under TENSION from the RING around the front of the receiver Ring. It is the tiny bit of inletting for this RING which puts many peopl off getting the S&K. That said, you can do the job yourself in about 20 minutes and it will be SOLID.
5: Another nice point about the S&K is that it can be ordered 2 ways: to take the (expensive but nice) S&K rings, OR to take standard, full-width WEAVER rings. You should SPECIFY which you want when you order.
And an answer: No, I am no longer in the gun business, having been retired for some time. But when I WAS in the business, I never saw a SINGLE S&K mount returned. I have an S&K on my Number 4 target rifle and I am getting one for my "pet" rifle: a 1907 SMLE Mark I*** Navy conversion which has the only surviving taper-bored barrel in civilian hands. Next Summer it will get the wringing-out which it should have had, century ago.
SMLE will bring in the Venison..... and the Elk.... and the Moose..... and anything else which gets in front of it.
Good luck!
Like Smellie says, the Weaver TO1 base is a .22 base and I have never liked the set up. That thin strip of aluminum spans all the way from the receiver ring to the charger bridge, no recoil lug to keep the scope and rings from creeping forward under recoil(always happens especially with larger, heavier scopes). A friend of mine drills and taps a setscrew forward of one leg of the claw on the ring base. But still nothing keeping the scope and rings from being bumped rearward. Personally I like Parker Hale mounts and rings for an Enfield that is already sportered beyond repair like yours. I think a number 27 mount, standard PH base and RALS3 or RAHS3 rings is a good setup but they are getting harder to find and the rings are pricey.
So what would you suggest their rings or the weaver style? And any hassles getting them to ship to the Great White North? Thanks in advance.
I would order the thing as made for the Weaver rings. NOthing wrong with the Weaver rings and you can get them anywhere..... and in several heights, so you can fit your rifle/scope combination to fit YOUR body.
And they are all about the same price, even the highest Weaver "ironsighter" rings being relatively inexpensive. If you think that's not a factor, just try buying a set of Maynard P. Buehler stainless-steel Extra High rings. Take your heart pills first. They are a work of Art and, like any work of Art, you gotta PAY for it! Weaver rings DO THE JOB and they do it well.... and at about a sixth of the price. Th S&K rings re not that xpensive but they are in very short supply, always. That does you no good when a screw works loose and you are 150 miles from Churchill.
I used to order S&K mounts through MilArm; seldom took more than a few days.
Hope this helps.
And they are all about the same price, even the highest Weaver "ironsighter" rings being relatively inexpensive. If you think that's not a factor, just try buying a set of Maynard P. Buehler stainless-steel Extra High rings. Take your heart pills first. They are a work of Art and, like any work of Art, you gotta PAY for it! Weaver rings DO THE JOB and they do it well.... and at about a sixth of the price. Th S&K rings re not that xpensive but they are in very short supply, always. That does you no good when a screw works loose and you are 150 miles from Churchill.
I used to order S&K mounts through MilArm; seldom took more than a few days.
Hope this helps.
- Location
- Chilliwack BC
Got me S+K mounted up
You were a lot luckier than I was. My S&K "no gunsmithing" mount was installed today.
It was far from a drop on.
Aside from the relatively minor wood removal for the front band, it needed a 30 thou shim made up to go between the block and the mount. That was to make the mount parallel with the receiver. It was really off otherwise. Something was really out of whack.(I think my receiver's charger guide)
Then the mount was also aiming off to the left...could not get it centred. Then, finally, I took the band off and flipped it over. That fixed that issue. It's nicely centred now.
I'll see how it shoots with it on and how well it holds zero.
It was far from a drop on.
Aside from the relatively minor wood removal for the front band, it needed a 30 thou shim made up to go between the block and the mount. That was to make the mount parallel with the receiver. It was really off otherwise. Something was really out of whack.(I think my receiver's charger guide)
Then the mount was also aiming off to the left...could not get it centred. Then, finally, I took the band off and flipped it over. That fixed that issue. It's nicely centred now.
I'll see how it shoots with it on and how well it holds zero.
- Location
- Iroquois Falls ON
Another option is Weaver side mount plate #48407 (stamped 7 on the side) and Weaver bracket and rings #49340 or 49350 (depending on the scope used). Cost is around $70.00 for the parts. The stripper clip bridge must be removed and the receiver drilled and tapped. It looks great on a fully sported out gun.
- Location
- Chilliwack BC
My scope is maxed on the elevation as well, but its dead on at 100 yards.
Okay...the instructions tell you to adjust the elevation using shims between the mount and receiver. My gunsmith used his vernier caliper between the top of the mount and the bottom of the receiver to measure at various points. He got it right on. But it doesn't look as clean as yours.
that would be this. This poor girl too was already de-bridged and D&T for the side mount so I went with it. It will hold the scope aprox 3/4" off bore axis.
- Location
- Iroquois Falls ON
that would be this. This poor girl too was already de-bridged and D&T for the side mount so I went with it. It will hold the scope aprox 3/4" off bore axis.
Hummmm,,,, I installed one last week and it is dead on over the bore. I would have put the same thing on my own hunting rifle except that the Bushnell Red-Dot that I like needs large rings. Your rifle looks great BTW! Love the ATI stock.
