Dry fire.

I bought a used Walther TPH in REALLY nice overall condition -really cheap given the overall condition but about one out of three rounds would not fire - bottom line was - some previous owner had dry fired it enough to create a "divet" in the barrel face - popped the barrel out - milled a "smidge" off the face to remove the divet - gun works flawlessly. My general policy is not to dry fire a .22 rim fire but to each his own ...FWIW

Indeed if the pin touches after the strike you have an interference firing pin and a divot could be the result.However if the pin doesn't touch you need to look elsewhere.Just say-in you know.

R
 
"So how do you do "proper practice" then?"
Very simple - you pack up your "things", trundle out to the range, set up target(s), unpack the pistol, remove trigger lock, clear the gun, load mags, go to the firing position, load firearm ... and start PRACTICING!

The only REAL way to become proficient with ANY firearm is to learn the proper shooting technique for the particular type of gun THEN SHOOT IT... LOTS!

"The only way to know how far a frog will jump is ... MAKE HIM JUMP!!!

Yes you develop a SMOOTH draw from a holster and ACQUIRING a sight picture and your reloads by hours of "dry firing" but you only attain ACCURACY and SPEED in shooting ( especially handgun) by developing "trigger control" and acquisition of sight picture AND over coming the "flinch" from heavy recoil guns by SHOOTING THEM!
 


bottom left cylinder on my s&w 17 definitely looks like it was struck by the pin.

Has to be damage from something else. The FP doesn't reach that far down. If that is your gun take note before you eject the empties that the FP strikes on spent brass at the outermost edge and not part way around where that ding is located.
 
I just received my new Henry pump 22. The Henry forum on rim fire central state not to dry fire.On taking it apart and getting familiarized with the gun the front of the bolt is recessed to accommodate head space dimensions.The firing pin travel is controlled by the distance the hammer can travel forward till it drives the pin forward flush with the rear of the bolt assembly.When the hammer reaches maximum travel it is stopped by the rear width of the bolt,thus stopping any further travel on the firing pin.When the pin is in this forward position the striker end of the pin does not protrude past the outer face of the front bolt face.With the pin all the way forward it is still not flush with the flat surface of the bolt due to head space requirements it is impossible to have the pin strike the chamber face as there is a clearance there.This would make it safe to dry fire that firearm.The previous post from a member about Henry's reply would confirm this clearance.Their statement its safe but about how many times is not really understood.All of these observations can be confirmed without gun tear down.Cycle the bolt back and move it forward about 1/2" you can then push the firing pin forward with a pencil to its max forward position flush with rear bolt surface and observe it still has a minus dimension to the make it flush to front bolt surface.Don't have a lever gun to also confirm this guy some fellow gun nut will be able to confirm this .

R


Yeah i dont recommend it, I ust to always dry fire my Henry .22mag... the head of the firing pin(the part that hits the rim) i learned was actually quite fragile, just the shock to the firing pin not being cushioned against a round was enough to shatter it. Gun was jammed up tight! When i finally got it apart there was firing pin everywhere... just dont do it, #### the hammer down by hand...
 
My .22lr lever henry gets dry fired every time i empty out the magazine. I just cant keep track of rounds fired (16 in the tube) Is that a problem you think? Is there an easy way to know you've fired the lost round?


Listen to your rifle, there is a different sound made by the action when its not chambering an actual round.. it sounds....lighter?.... and it feels different...

Shoot it more , then you will know
 
I bought a used Walther TPH in REALLY nice overall condition -really cheap given the overall condition but about one out of three rounds would not fire - bottom line was - some previous owner had dry fired it enough to create a "divet" in the barrel face - popped the barrel out - milled a "smidge" off the face to remove the divet - gun works flawlessly. My general policy is not to dry fire a .22 rim fire but to each his own ...FWIW

You are right it should not be done but if you have to now or then it is not going to be much of a problem just don't do it all the time.
 
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