Dry firing GSG 1911
- Thread starter Sharps '63
- Start date
ambishooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Southeastern Canuckstan
Be on the safe side, use a dummy round.
You will break the firing pin if you do it often. Some people remove the magazine safety so they can decock it when they take a magazine out GSG put that in there to prevent dry firing.
It's a rimfire don't dry fire it... simple as that. Many of the 22 dummy rounds say don't dry fire as they're metal.
It's a rimfire don't dry fire it... simple as that. Many of the 22 dummy rounds say don't dry fire as they're metal.
- Location
- Prince George B.C.
I dryfire mine all the time.
Not an issue as far as I can see.
Seems to me that a floating firing pin should be okay......and if it breaks big deal I will fix it
John
Not an issue as far as I can see.
Seems to me that a floating firing pin should be okay......and if it breaks big deal I will fix it
John
JR Hartman
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- chilliwack BC.
its a good question, because, while most rimfires shouldn't be dry fired, some are just fine. IE CZ rifles specifically state in their owners manual that you can dry fire.
Stating that just because its a rim fire means you can't dry fire it is not a sufficient answer, at least in my books.
Stating that just because its a rim fire means you can't dry fire it is not a sufficient answer, at least in my books.
ambishooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Southeastern Canuckstan
The reason I asked is that when installing the ZRTS tapered barrel cone (it's aluminum, I expected steel) and SS guide rod, I noticed the merest mark on the breech of the barrel above the chamber. The gun came 'next-to-new' so it hasn't been fired much, live or dry.
I had to replace the ambi-safety (done under warranty by Blue Line, thank you!) as the previous owner had installed very nice rosewood grips that lacked the ambi relief cut. As a result, the non-steel ambi sprung at the joint. In so doing, the safety plunger took off for parts unknown! Not the first time I've done that, so I shoulda knowed better .... It ricocheted off something and actually landed in the pocket of my hoody! Last time that happened, I was on my hands and knees with a flashlight.
The plunger spring was overly stiff (more so than on my R1's or SR1911's) so I trimmed it back a few coils. Now installing the safety is much easier and it still 'snaps off' just fine.
Haven't put a round through it as yet, but I'm going to feed it Federal HV HP 36 gr and CCI MiniMag 40 gr HP, both copper washed. They should make it perk.
I had to replace the ambi-safety (done under warranty by Blue Line, thank you!) as the previous owner had installed very nice rosewood grips that lacked the ambi relief cut. As a result, the non-steel ambi sprung at the joint. In so doing, the safety plunger took off for parts unknown! Not the first time I've done that, so I shoulda knowed better .... It ricocheted off something and actually landed in the pocket of my hoody! Last time that happened, I was on my hands and knees with a flashlight.
The plunger spring was overly stiff (more so than on my R1's or SR1911's) so I trimmed it back a few coils. Now installing the safety is much easier and it still 'snaps off' just fine.
Haven't put a round through it as yet, but I'm going to feed it Federal HV HP 36 gr and CCI MiniMag 40 gr HP, both copper washed. They should make it perk.
Shanks4300
Regular
- Location
- Winnipeg, mb
I wouldn't, if you don't have any plastic snap caps around, the small yellow drywall anchors fit perfect. They won't feed from the mag but they extract just fine.
- Location
- The Orion Arm
IIRC, you can dry fire Rugers.
The Armory Channel on YouTube talks about this fact often.
The Armory Channel on YouTube talks about this fact often.
- Location
- Prince George B.C.
- Location
- Prince George B.C.
Yeah I noticed the same mark but it doesn't affect function or appear to be getting any worse......so far! Lol
I bought this as a training tool as well as a plinker: so I clear it the same way as my center fire pieces.... Unload and show clear is performed the same way regardless of the pistol I am using.
John
Standingtall
Regular
- Location
- Victoria, BC
I believe it says "do not dry fire" right in the GSG 1911 manual that cpmes in the box. So, if you do...its on you.
I do not own one but some I know at the gun club does. He bought an early one and you were not supposed to dry fire it according to the manual. Later models changed and now you can dry fire them. The firing pin broke on his and he replaced it with a new one and can now dry fire it. Technology does change and the old sayings do not dry fire a 22 hasn’t applied for a long time. Several new 22’s now say in the manuals you can dry fire them. My recently bought Ruger’s come to mind as stating in the manual it ok to dry fire.
Then you must have a manual different from the one that came with my wife's gun. I've gone through it several times and find no reference to dry firing. Which is why I asked the question in the first place.
But - since I see the mark developing on the breech face, that indicates contact with the firing pin. This cannot be a good thing, so dry firing will be at a minimum.
The Ruger may be one type where it is OK to dry fire. The Browning Medalist another. Don't know of any more semi-autos. I've dry fired my S&W .22s for years.
But - since I see the mark developing on the breech face, that indicates contact with the firing pin. This cannot be a good thing, so dry firing will be at a minimum.
The Ruger may be one type where it is OK to dry fire. The Browning Medalist another. Don't know of any more semi-autos. I've dry fired my S&W .22s for years.
This same rimfire question came up about Henry rifles. Thanks to the external hammer that gives access to the striker that pushes the firing pin it's a simple matter to check for ourselves. On a GSG field strip the gun then with a pencil or other little tool push on the striker pad in the hammer notch to move it forward as far as it'll go. While holding that pressure check the protrusion of the firing pin on the face of the slide. If the firing pin sticks forward farther than the outer shoulder of the relief for the rim then the FP can strike and dent the face of the barrel. In that case it should not be dry fired. If it only comes flush or slightly shy of the shoulder then it's safe from a barrel damage standpoint to dry fire it.
From there we move on to the design of the FP and other parts around it in terms of the ability to absorb continuous shock without peening or other forms of failure.
Myself? The odd time it's likely not a big deal. But I would not perform hundreds of dry fire exercises on a regular basis without some sort of padding under the firing pin.
From there we move on to the design of the FP and other parts around it in terms of the ability to absorb continuous shock without peening or other forms of failure.
Myself? The odd time it's likely not a big deal. But I would not perform hundreds of dry fire exercises on a regular basis without some sort of padding under the firing pin.
