So here in Ottawa we're receiving record amounts of rain this month. It's literally rained every day for a week. Anyways, I had a new Glock that needed shooting, I was in need of some group therapy and a couple of my friends wanted to head out (including my friend's wife who'd never shot a pistol before) So off to the range we went. Not surprisingly we and all our gear got soaked. Drying out the Glock isn't a big deal as there are so few parts to it. The 1911 on the other hand is a bit of a different story. I field stripped it, pulled the grips off, blew it out with compressed air, and it's currently air drying. Do I need to do anything beyond that to keep it from rusting?
Drying out a 1911?
- Thread starter rkm456
- Start date
If it was correctly lubed before then all you need to do is dry it well and lube the slide rails and the center bar on the bottom of the slide that rides against the hammer and top round in the magazine and the barrel and link and such. In short the usual stuff that needs lubing after a field strip.
For what it's worth I like to try the hidden parts with a hair dryer. The warmth aids in drying it out much better and much faster. Or if the central heat is on then put the field stripped parts over a floor register and let them dry in the warm air from the register during a cycle or two of the heating system. Then lube the usual parts, re-assemble and put the gun to bed.
The issue with using WD40 to flush out the hidden parts is that it's a far better water displacer and cleaning solvent than it is a lubricant. So you then need some way to get the proper oil into the parts and push out the WD40. All that WD and oil makes the gun into a sopping wet dripping mess for at least a while. And since water does not actually flush away the oil I see it as a little overkill. Just get some warmth into the metal and some moving air and it'll dry out and be fine with the oil that was there to start with.
For what it's worth I like to try the hidden parts with a hair dryer. The warmth aids in drying it out much better and much faster. Or if the central heat is on then put the field stripped parts over a floor register and let them dry in the warm air from the register during a cycle or two of the heating system. Then lube the usual parts, re-assemble and put the gun to bed.
The issue with using WD40 to flush out the hidden parts is that it's a far better water displacer and cleaning solvent than it is a lubricant. So you then need some way to get the proper oil into the parts and push out the WD40. All that WD and oil makes the gun into a sopping wet dripping mess for at least a while. And since water does not actually flush away the oil I see it as a little overkill. Just get some warmth into the metal and some moving air and it'll dry out and be fine with the oil that was there to start with.
If you are familiar with detail stripping a 1911, it's even easier than a glock to detail strip.
I'd have to time it, but would be ready to put money on it, blindfolded, 5 minutes an 1911 is detail stripped
No easier gun to work on
I'd have to time it, but would be ready to put money on it, blindfolded, 5 minutes an 1911 is detail stripped
No easier gun to work on
After 25 years shooting competitively, especially in Alberta, BC and Montana. I shot in almost some of the worst weather conditions ever, my little secret..... TriFlow, you find it in bike shops. I used to use it on my bikes, but I found the lubrication was amazing, and it repelled almost everything that came in contact with it, and survived all weather conditions and temperatures.
couple of squirts in the internals and you're good to go.
couple of squirts in the internals and you're good to go.
From their website.
Tri-Flow® Superior Lubricant is a superior, light viscosity lube that allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts. The aerosol spray action allows you to have a focused spray for even application. High-grade petroleum oils provide optimum lubrication under extreme temperatures (-60 to 475°F) and humidity. Formulated solvents soften and remove dirt and contaminants, while special additives displace moisture and prevent rust and corrosion. Formulated with P.T.F.E.
Apply it on the rails of any pistol, and you won't believe how smooth it feels.
Mec carries it
Tri-Flow® Superior Lubricant is a superior, light viscosity lube that allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts. The aerosol spray action allows you to have a focused spray for even application. High-grade petroleum oils provide optimum lubrication under extreme temperatures (-60 to 475°F) and humidity. Formulated solvents soften and remove dirt and contaminants, while special additives displace moisture and prevent rust and corrosion. Formulated with P.T.F.E.
Apply it on the rails of any pistol, and you won't believe how smooth it feels.
Mec carries it
Thanks. Happen to have a Mec not too far from me now.
Can you use this as a regular gun lube?
Thats what I have used from day one, it only drips away if you add too much. I used it long before I got into guns, when I was a competitive cyclist, and never used anything else when I started shooting. For storage I give the guns a light spray and put them away.
I always have a bottle in my gun bag, but unless I am travelling by air, the spray is much better for applying.
I always have a bottle in my gun bag, but unless I am travelling by air, the spray is much better for applying.
I had to highlight this because I use the floor vent nearest my furnace to dry out my brass after cleaning it in hot soapy water. After a hot rinse, I drop it all into an old fry basket, turn on the heat and remove the vent cover, and stir it with a stick as the hot air blasts through it. Works really well.
I've also used the floor vent to warm up small parts for a quick dab of cold blue.
