Drying out a 1911?
- Thread starter rkm456
- Start date
A complete disassembly is best.
Or go buy a new sealed bag of rice at the grocery store. Put it in a large Ziploc. Lay the pistol on top and seal. Dry as a popcorn fart in a few hours.
The problem with drying it in the oven or with a hair dryer is heat is a factor when it comes to the oxidization process. (Read rust)
Or go buy a new sealed bag of rice at the grocery store. Put it in a large Ziploc. Lay the pistol on top and seal. Dry as a popcorn fart in a few hours.
The problem with drying it in the oven or with a hair dryer is heat is a factor when it comes to the oxidization process. (Read rust)
The idea of the warm MOVING air from a hair dryer or floor vent is that the moving air gets into all the spots with more energy.
I've never had any flash rust from warm air from a hair dryer or the floor register. A heat gun might be hot enough to cause something like that if used too high. But I doubt it. More risky to leave the parts wet for longer and for water to stay in some joints for much longer if using a non warmed drying method.
I've never had any flash rust from warm air from a hair dryer or the floor register. A heat gun might be hot enough to cause something like that if used too high. But I doubt it. More risky to leave the parts wet for longer and for water to stay in some joints for much longer if using a non warmed drying method.
Why not? Once a year I hose down the wife's M93 with break cleaner, and then drench it in WD-40 and voila done, apart from lubing the rails etc.
Be damned if I'm taking that sucker apart! Too many horror stories
M
Non chlorinated brake cleaner is perfectly safe, works amazing but you'll need to give anything steel a wipe down with oil after.
Why not? Once a year I hose down the wife's M93 with break cleaner, and then drench it in WD-40 and voila done, apart from lubing the rails etc.
Be damned if I'm taking that sucker apart! Too many horror stories
M
It's really good at getting into places, and can be really hard to get back out.
Because it evaporates lubricants just applying a lubricant and hoping it flushes it out from nooks and crannies I can't see isn't something I'm inclined to do. When you consider that brake cleaner is one of the few things I can think of that will guarantee rust if not correctly removed from a metal surface, I'm not in a hurry to apply it to a gun.
It's not the brake clean that cause rust, it that it's strips it clean and leaves zero corrosion inhibitors. Reapplying oil is kind of a given. Any degreaser/solvent would be the same. Not a fan of the Ed-40 baths either but whatever works I guess.
Admiring and learning from the ingenuity and intricacy of firearms isn't weird to me. It's metal as art and should be appreciated.
I enjoy it too and would venture to say many others do as well. It's a part of the pleasure of owning such fine mechanisms.
I would go with what BC Rider said.
Alternatively:
Go to the 1911.org forum and download how to completely strip your 1911. It really is quite easy to do. Start with a empty .45acp case and strip it down to the frame using only parts from the gun and that case. Old John Browning had something between his ears.
Take Care
Bob
ps The case is for the slotted screws on your grips. If you don't have slotted screws you will have to cheat a bit and start with a slotted screwdriver.
Alternatively:
Go to the 1911.org forum and download how to completely strip your 1911. It really is quite easy to do. Start with a empty .45acp case and strip it down to the frame using only parts from the gun and that case. Old John Browning had something between his ears.
Take Care
Bob
ps The case is for the slotted screws on your grips. If you don't have slotted screws you will have to cheat a bit and start with a slotted screwdriver.
