dumb question maybe?

nate18

nate18

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other than my .22 I've have never shot a real big bore rifle (though i much desire to get into LR shooting soon) but i was wondering after some time on the range or a good amount of rounds does your shoulder start to hurt? i had an idea that is really dumb but i was wondering if it would work or if it would screw with precision and aim. but couldn't you add some sort of compression shock or something like a strut on a car, just put 2 small ones in the stock that attaches to the butt plate. :confused:

do i have stupid ideas or not?:confused::confused:

thanks nate
 
And you could put a spring on the scope, so that when the stock compresses, the scope will just bounce off your forehead instead of cutting you.:rolleyes:
I am kidding, don't do it.
Knox Axiom already has it.(the stock, not the scope)
 
With good form, shooting even the most powerful cartridges should never hurt. But you certainly can start to get tender after a while with a powerful gun, especially when shooting from a bench, where your body is positioned in such a way that you don't roll with the recoil much and therefore just has to absorb it.

That said, the cumulative effects of recoil can affect your accuracy. The recoil of heavier guns is quite forceful, they are loud, and the recoil is also very sudden. These things all have a subconscious psychological effect and can result in (mostly new) shooters inadvertently learning an anticipatory flinch. The best way to avoid this is to be aware of it from the outset. Then with a combination of (a) good form, (b) a sensible choice of first rifles, and (c) lots of practice with a .22 or dry firing to 'teach' your brain that pulling a trigger doesn't have unpleasant consequences, you'll not have to worry about the effects of recoil on accuracy.

RG

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in a long day at the range i will put 100-150 308 / 100 6.5x284 and 100 223 down range mostly shooting prone with out and marks or soreness! it comes down to form and fit of your rifle once it fits you your good to go
 
I was chatting with a fellow I know that is a bench-rest shooter tuned f-class shooter and he experimented with a system that was essentially a bedding block with a shock absorber, with the idea of attenuating recoil. He had been reading about this system from a few eccentric benchrest shooters.

It did not work for him. Accuracy was adversely affected.

One of the BIGGEST mistakes I see here all the time is new shooters wanting to buy cannons for a first rifle. Mass and velocity do NOT equal accuracy and you develop so many bad habits (such as flinches, closing the eyes etc.) that are profoundly difficult to overcome without coaching. They are also bloody expensive to feed.

Jerry has proven the ubiquitous 223 is good to a mile. I have shot the 6BR to a mile, and both have 1/3 the recoil of a 308. I love the challenge of doing more with less.

Most of THE most accurate cartridges in the world have less recoil than a 308, and there are several good reasons why shooters tend not to use 338 Lapua Magnums in 300M ISSF competition.
 
Obtunded has provided some good advice.

Look long and hard at what you need to get the job done. You don't need to shoot an arm cannon to get to distance. Even with good habits, after 100+ rounds through my 300wm, both my shoulder and wallet hurt.

Another device good for reducing recoil is a mercury recoil reducer. Installed in your stock by a smith. They are said to eat about 30% of recoil. No personal experience but they work by allowing mercury to flow back and forth through a small orfice (all in a sealed bomb proof metal tube of course).

Best advice is to select a good performing light to medium caliber (6br and up to say the 308 range) and work with that.

Of course, the big boomers are fun too!
 
savage express said:
And you could put a spring on the scope, so that when the stock compresses, the scope will just bounce off your forehead instead of cutting you.:rolleyes:
I am kidding, don't do it.
Knox Axiom already has it.(the stock, not the scope)
Click to expand...

Springs on the scope, now we're talking. Even better would be spring scope mounts. They could just flex toward the front after the shot breaks, taking you out of harms way, until the mount springs come back :kickInTheNuts:
 
I seen a mod advertised on Shooting USA with a couple of miniature gas shocks made out of billet aluminum with a pad on the back of it. It was designed for sporting clay shot guns though. Can't remember the manufacture name though? Don't know how well it would work on a rifle.

I'd say start with a smaller centerfire rifle you can handle, and work up from there once you have had some time at the bench.
 
Wookie316 said:
I'd say start with a smaller centerfire rifle you can handle, and work up from there once you have had some time at the bench.
Click to expand...

BORING! A good first rifle should draw blood from your face, and leave your shooting shoulder near crippled. The trick is of course to destroy any of the nerves that might cause a flinch, if you leave even one of them half alive, you're gonna miss. 300Win is a good minimum, 338 lapua would be better, the good thing about the larger calibers, is they cost more, so they are obviously better. You'll only need half an hour at the range to spend a bunch of $$$. And as we all know, the more you $$$ you spend, the better you shoot.


;)

(If you're dumb enough to follow this advice, you deserve what's coming)
 
curtmg said:
BORING! A good first rifle should draw blood from your face, and leave your shooting shoulder near crippled. The trick is of course to destroy any of the nerves that might cause a flinch, if you leave even one of them half alive, you're gonna miss. 300Win is a good minimum, 338 lapua would be better, the good thing about the larger calibers, is they cost more, so they are obviously better. You'll only need half an hour at the range to spend a bunch of $$$. And as we all know, the more you $$$ you spend, the better you shoot.


;)

(If you're dumb enough to follow this advice, you deserve what's coming)
Click to expand...

LOL didn't you choose a 300wm for your first rifle???? (so did I btw)

In all reality I love my 300wm and the big blast and sore shoulder I get at the range. It makes it a blast to shoot and ads a huge element of fun. Ammo for me is about 6 bucks more a box then a 308 and 3 or 4 bucks more then a 30-06, so I don't find it a big deal.

All and all I wouldn't trade my Win mag for any other caliber.
 
curtmg is on the right track. Get yourself a 5 pound .338 mountain rifle, steel butt plate, 300 grain Barnes round nose and a 2 inch eye relief scope then you will have great stories to tell us!
 
Nothing silly about the question. I am a walking example of what recoil can do physically. Shot too many 308's and my shoulder is now permanently buggered.

The damage due to recoil is cumulative. The effect is permanent. Think boxing drunk.... or Chinese water torture.

With new gen bullets, the smaller cals actually do a much better job of balancing accuracy and ballistics even if you could put up with the recoil. More LR records are being set by 6mm then any other cal of late.

More F(O) wins are set with 6.5's then with larger bores. The 7mm is about as large as this very demanding sport is using. Why doesn't everyone shoot a 7mm? RECOIL

There are no medals for the most bruised shoulder....

Jerry

PS the 223 offers equal or better LR ballistics then the 308. 1/2 the cost, 1/3 the recoil. Works for me.
 
I actually got to shoot a 6.5 - 284 recently and was surprised at the recoil difference between that and my 6 BR, i'll stick with the BR . The accuracy is fantastic and I can literally shoot it all day.

M.
 
223 is hands down the best cal to start with. Cheap, lots of components and loading data, little or no recoil and with practice and good loads, and a fast twist barrel (1:9 minimum) you can easily push it out to 1000 yards accurately.
 
I couldn't agree more with Jerry.

Cannons can be fun if you like lobbing a couple of bucks down range with each shot, but the true test of a shooter's mettle is mastery of shooting conditions.

There are many different cartridges with recoil significantly less than a 308 that blow its doors off accuracy-wise. Knowing how to steer it to your target is all about the shooter. I don't care if you're shooting a 338 Lap Mag, 7STW or a 223, it is all about mastering your particular firearm. Assuming you have an accurate rifle, the shooter is EVERYTHING past 600 yards.

Knowing your rifle is accurate is the second most important part of the equasion, as you'll never learn where your went wrong if your rifle shoots 1MOA.
 
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