Duracoat camo kits --*Completed *Pics added!**
- Thread starter ceriksson
- Start date
Take a look at the duracoat website, they have lots of info for the preparation of different surfaces.
Duracoat can be applied pretty much to ever surface, you just have to prep it first so it is rough enough for the paint to stick.. depending on how smooth the finish is on the rifle, you might simply have to lightly go over it with some sand paper.
For my rifle I just plan to thuroughly clean the surface with brake clean and lightly sand the smooth parts with some sandpaper. The stock doesn't need any prep but the metal will need a little bit of sanding.
no not really. I just bought a can of it from Canadian tire.
Duracoat of course tries to market their own cleaner but they also say that brakeclean or any other non-residue leaving cleaner will work.
http://www. houtsenterprises.net/dur_easy.html
Duracoat of course tries to market their own cleaner but they also say that brakeclean or any other non-residue leaving cleaner will work.
http://www. houtsenterprises.net/dur_easy.html
Anderson Arms
New member
- Location
- Emerson, MB
We do Duracoating.
Undergiver
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Sturgeon County, AB
Yea if you read the start of the thread I got mine at Fabsports in Montreal.
Costs more than the US prices, but not too different considering the current exchange rate.
I honestly wouldn't mind paying to have someone do it for me but there isn't anyone near me that does it. I don't want to have to ship the rifle out for it.
Anderson Arms, what do you charge for a full camo job anyway? and where are you?
After using my brake cleaner I've noticed that it does leave a film that I have to wipe off.
Luckily I do have a can of acetone that I have no other use for.. phew.
I spent a lot of today and last night taping up some of the things I'm painting.
I've separated my bolt and taped up the bolt tube with handle and the firing pin/spring
I've taped all parts up on them exept parts of the bolt handle and the hood on the other part.
I also taped up the inside of the action and plugged the chamber.
Lots of small parts to cover and leave exposed in those areas.
I'm going to paint all around the barrel for the most part even where it sits in the stock. I taped over the trigger assembly and whatnot as well.. but i left the trigger itself exposed for painting.
Question.. Should I tape off the top of the action where the base gets screwed in? Will having paint on that section have any effect on screwing my bases in? I'll have the screw plugs in of course.
I'm painting my farrel base as well and only taped the bottom of the base where it screws into the rifle and plugged the screw holes. What about the rails? Are they ok to paint into or should I be taping more?
I'll post up a couple pictures of what i've done so far..
I plan to start the painting on thursday afternoon/evening.
If it is too cold I'll be putting a heater up in the garage and getting it warm enough
Ok I said I would show some pictures.
Taping inside the action and the two parts of the bolt were pretty finicky. I didn't want any of the parts that rub against each other to be painted so it took lots of xacto knife cuts to keep things flush..
The tape wrapped around the rifle is just temporary. I taped under the action too meaning the screw holes were covered up so I just put the rifle back together but didn't screw it in, so the tape is just there till I take it to where I'm painting it, where I'll be doing the rest of it.
I plan to use a simple ear plug for the muzzle.
What did you guys use to hold the barrel/action when you painted?
Taping inside the action and the two parts of the bolt were pretty finicky. I didn't want any of the parts that rub against each other to be painted so it took lots of xacto knife cuts to keep things flush..
The tape wrapped around the rifle is just temporary. I taped under the action too meaning the screw holes were covered up so I just put the rifle back together but didn't screw it in, so the tape is just there till I take it to where I'm painting it, where I'll be doing the rest of it.
I plan to use a simple ear plug for the muzzle.
What did you guys use to hold the barrel/action when you painted?
Nice job buddy, i suggest that you remove the trigger before painting. If the sans blast is done, what do you use to protect the tip of the barrel ?? ear plug are fine for paint but not for blast...
Sound good, remember to do few THIN coat instead of 1 thick one...
Will see some pic soon i hope
What do you use to mesure the the paint and hardner ratio ??
Sendero
Sound good, remember to do few THIN coat instead of 1 thick one...
Will see some pic soon i hope
What do you use to mesure the the paint and hardner ratio ??
Sendero
I'm not going to sandblast. I did a sandpaper test and The beadblast finish that the rifle comes with is rough enough for painting.
I think that when the duracoat mean stainless they mean polished stainless. My gunsmith aggreed that the factory finish on the stainless is already rough enough for painting.
So with no sandblasting, the ear plug in the muzzle looks like it will do a good job.
For measuring the ratio I bought a stainless teaspoon set. So I will be using the 12:1 ratio. So 1 table spoon to a quarter teaspoon.. or 2 tablespoon to .5 teaspoon.
I can just use the lacquer thinner to clean the spoons each time.
On another note. I managed to get a different venue to do my painting. I'll be doing it in my father's garage instead of my brothers. His garage is heated so no more worry about temp here.
I also emailed duracoat about this and they said that 60 degrees will work but 65 degrees is better. Thats 15-18 degrees. I'm assuming 20 will be even better.
The last challenge will be devising the method to hold the items while I paint them
