DYI blueing old 30-30

[Wade Clouthier]

I am new to this site but am looking for some help on reblueing an old Winchester 94 project. It has a few minor rust spots and the original blueing on the receiver needs help. Is this a do it yourself job or are there any good products available? It will be a wall hanger mostly so I would like to do a quality job on it. Thanks.

 

[hunterhenderson]

I am new to this site but am looking for some help on reblueing an old Winchester 94 project. It has a few minor rust spots and the original blueing on the receiver needs help. Is this a do it yourself job or are there any good products available? It will be a wall hanger mostly so I would like to do a quality job on it. Thanks.

Mornin Wade and Welcome!!

What year is the 94, home bluing is ok but if it is a post 64 model, the receiver will have a difficult time accepting the cold blue(if thats what you are using) because of the alloy/steel used in the manufacturing. Ive had great luck with Brownells, good luck and post pics!!

​

 

[simonsez]

Mornin Wade and Welcome!!

What year is the 94, home bluing is ok but if it is a post 64 model, the receiver will have a difficult time accepting the cold blue(if thats what you are using) because of the alloy/steel used in the manufacturing. Ive had great luck with Brownells, good luck and post pics!!

​

Does it protect against rust, or is it mostly cosmetic?

 

[yomomma]

Personal experience, have a professional do it

 

[fire@will]

As yomomma says, for optimum results, have it professionally done. I've done both and a DIY job won't hold a candle to what a guy with the right equipment will do. If you don't want to spend the money on that and you want to do it yourself, do some reading on the subject. Prep is everything. Clean and finish the surface, to what you want the gun to look like - bluing won't hide anything.
My last gun I did some DIY bluing on, I used Birchwood Casey Super Blue, but I have heard that guys who used the Oxpho-Blue have gotten decent results too.

To simonsez - IMHO, it's more cosmetic than rust resistant - as all bluing is. Handle either with sweaty hands, or get it wet and don't wipe it down with an oily rag afterwards, and rust will start to form on both - and it doesn't take long. For better rust protection, Parkerizing, or some of the newer finishes definitely work better.

 

[KePet]

I’ve tried and tried cold blue. So has the wife’s cousin. You can get a decent blueing job with a few coats, and it looks really pretty, but unless you keep it saturated with oil it will rust. If you leave it in a gun cabinet for a month it will come out with surface rust. Hang it on a wall, and you’ll see it in a week. And, as has been mentioned, the receivers on post64 won’t take the blue.

I’ve actually just given up on cold blue. If a gun needs to be refinished, I use Duracoat now. Nice part is that they actually have a color that matches blueing. I just don’t know what it’s like getting it out of the states since all the latest stupidity

 

[slug]

I've had moderate luck with cold blue, and will continue using it. It isn't perfect but certainly improves things. If you're not happy you haven't lost anything and can still have a professional do a hot blue. However, too nice a finish on an older, well used rifle can look cheesy.

 

[Waxford]

I would avoid cold bluing as well, it’s uneven and wear off quickly.

Personally I am now rust bluing my firearms. I had excellent results, and the bluing is very strong. You can choose how deep you want the bluing to be because it’s done by successive layers. Also you don’t require any sanding of the metal parts, just a very good degreasing cleaning.

It’s also very cheap to do, just takes some time.

I’ll be glad to share more about the process if you are interested.

 

[Wade Clouthier]

Mornin Wade and Welcome!!

What year is the 94, home bluing is ok but if it is a post 64 model, the receiver will have a difficult time accepting the cold blue(if thats what you are using) because of the alloy/steel used in the manufacturing. Ive had great luck with Brownells, good luck and post pics!!

​

It is 1904 by the serial number check. So this should work fine on it. I will give it a try and post the finished product. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Wade Clouthier]

As yomomma says, for optimum results, have it professionally done. I've done both and a DIY job won't hold a candle to what a guy with the right equipment will do. If you don't want to spend the money on that and you want to do it yourself, do some reading on the subject. Prep is everything. Clean and finish the surface, to what you want the gun to look like - bluing won't hide anything.
My last gun I did some DIY bluing on, I used Birchwood Casey Super Blue, but I have heard that guys who used the Oxpho-Blue have gotten decent results too.

To simonsez - IMHO, it's more cosmetic than rust resistant - as all bluing is. Handle either with sweaty hands, or get it wet and don't wipe it down with an oily rag afterwards, and rust will start to form on both - and it doesn't take long. For better rust protection, Parkerizing, or some of the newer finishes definitely work better.

I would like to stick with bluing to keep the look and sentimental value. It will only be out on the best of weather and definitely oiled after each use. Very little rust on it especially how old it is. Thanks

 

[Wade Clouthier]

I would avoid cold bluing as well, it’s uneven and wear off quickly.

Personally I am now rust bluing my firearms. I had excellent results, and the bluing is very strong. You can choose how deep you want the bluing to be because it’s done by successive layers. Also you don’t require any sanding of the metal parts, just a very good degreasing cleaning.

It’s also very cheap to do, just takes some time.

I’ll be glad to share more about the process if you are interested.

What degreaser do you use? Will warming the metal slightly help the bluing adherence? How many layers would you recommend? I would put on enough layers to make it look more uniform as I have the time. Thanks

 

[Wade Clouthier]

I've had moderate luck with cold blue, and will continue using it. It isn't perfect but certainly improves things. If you're not happy you haven't lost anything and can still have a professional do a not blue. However, too nice a finish on an older, well used rifle can look cheesy.

Yes I want the older worn look as it suits this gun. Thanks

 

[Wade Clouthier]

I’ve tried and tried cold blue. So has the wife’s cousin. You can get a decent blueing job with a few coats, and it looks really pretty, but unless you keep it saturated with oil it will rust. If you leave it in a gun cabinet for a month it will come out with surface rust. Hang it on a wall, and you’ll see it in a week. And, as has been mentioned, the receivers on post64 won’t take the blue.

I’ve actually just given up on cold blue. If a gun needs to be refinished, I use Duracoat now. Nice part is that they actually have a color that matches blueing. I just don’t know what it’s like getting it out of the states since all the latest stupidity

I will try the cold bluing to suit the gun. I generally oil it for storage so rust risk is minimal. Will Hoppers gun oil affect the cold bluing? Thanks

 

[Waxford]

What degreaser do you use? Will warming the metal slightly help the bluing adherence? How many layers would you recommend? I would put on enough layers to make it look more uniform as I have the time. Thanks

I use nom chlorinated break cleaner as a first pass, then I use lots of dish soap and hot water. Always wear gloves to avoid putting finger grease on them. When you think you are done, do it one more time.

Rust bluing is has strong as hot bluing, no meed to get high temperatures.

The idea is that once clean, you coat each metal parts with a corrosive solution, then you let the parts rust, and then you boil or steam them. The red surface rust will convert to a black, protective layer. After habing boiling them, you can card them with steel wool. Repeat the process to get a deeper bluing.

I have a rust bluing solution recipe, and detailed steps. Just need to take the time to write it up.

 

[Wade Clouthier]

I use nom chlorinated break cleaner as a first pass, then I use lots of dish soap and hot water. Always wear gloves to avoid putting finger grease on them. When you think you are done, do it one more time.

Rust bluing is has strong as hot bluing, no meed to get high temperatures.

The idea is that once clean, you coat each metal parts with a corrosive solution, then you let the parts rust, and then you boil or steam them. The red surface rust will convert to a black, protective layer. After habing boiling them, you can card them with steel wool. Repeat the process to get a deeper bluing.

I have a rust bluing solution recipe, and detailed steps. Just need to take the time to write it up.

I will try the non-chlorinated break cleaner as it is well oiled now. The previous owner stored it for over 22 years and it is not rusted so I will probably have to do it a few times. Thanks

 

[Evanguy]

Antique express rust bluing works well for home use. Very simple setup and easy to do, take a good few coats so it's not like one miss step and you need to start over.

Just j don't rub it on. Apply in long even strokes

 

[Wade Clouthier]

Antique express rust bluing works well for home use. Very simple setup and easy to do, take a good few coats so it's not like one miss step and you need to start over.

Just j don't rub it on. Apply in long even strokes

Thanks.

 

[wasrupzuk]

I’ve used the Brownells with good results.
Tips I can give:
It has to be absolutely oil free so wear gloves and I used acetone (multiple cleanings).
Dispense what you use into a small cup so you don’t contaminate the bottle (it will screw it up).
Do lots of coats, lots. When you think it’s good do three more.

 

[Wade Clouthier]

I’ve used the Brownells with good results.
Tips I can give:
It has to be absolutely oil free so wear gloves and I used acetone (multiple cleanings).
Dispense what you use into a small cup so you don’t contaminate the bottle (it will screw it up).
Do lots of coats, lots. When you think it’s good do three more.

Thanks

 

[slug]

I degrease with acetone first and pour a little Oxpho blue into a pill bottle cap. I warm up the barrel with a heat gun during and after application. Watch out that the heat doesn't melt the plastic stick on the swab . Then steel wool and elbow grease, followed by oiling. Repeat every couple of days for a few times. Not perfect, but much better even after two years.