Easier corrosive washing...UPDATED

PerversPépère

PerversPépère

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Dealing with an ill-fitting and wobbly funnel when washing a milsurp bore is always an irritating and sometimes scalding proposition. So I decided to make myself an adapter for every surplus I shoot with corrosive ammo.
I chose three calibers to try: 8mm. Mauser, 303 British and the ever present 7,62x39mm. Another one for 7,62x54R is in the works, too.
For ease of drilling, if you can, sacrify an already sized Boxer primed case; it simplifies centering the drill bits. If you have drill bits cut for soft metals, use them. If not, go carefully and lubricate: brass has a tendency to seize on drill bits cut for steel.
To avoid problems, take small cuts; use several increasing sizes to reach 3/8" diameter.

The 7,62x39mm casehead has too small a diameter to accept 3/8" soft copper tubing so I used a .303 British case that I cut and resized to 7,62 profile. Go easy, trim often and lubricate.

Once done, I soldered the adapters to a 10" length of copper tubing, bent them in a dogleg shape and soldered an enlargement at the end to accept a properly sized household funnel with the stem trimmed to fit tight.
End of the problem... PP.:)

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Why not just use a piece of flexible rubber hose and a container for the water ? Dump a little, pull it up, dump a bit more, repeat as necessary ...
 
looks good great idea! you should patent them!!!

BUT why use water at all i shoot those cals all the time and never use water just hoppes #9 and an oiled patch to finnish
 
Bof, I just cleaned my rifles after months of them sitting after shooting corrosive, no visible "damage"... I'm not done with them yet but I have put a CLP soaked patch thru the bore and will fisnish the job whenever I feel like it, I'm beginning to think that corrosive ammo is HIGHLY over-rated.
 
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contact148 said:
looks good great idea! you should patent them!!!

BUT why use water at all i shoot those cals all the time and never use water just hoppes #9 and an oiled patch to finnish
Click to expand...

Because the salts left in the bore after shooting corrosive ammo are soluble in water but not oil. If you're not using corrosive ammo you don't need to worry about it.
 
contact148 said:
looks good great idea! you should patent them!!!

BUT why use water at all i shoot those cals all the time and never use water just hoppes #9 and an oiled patch to finnish
Click to expand...
The idea is a very old one: I have seen pictures of a similar gizmo the Brits used in 1914; I just wanted to make sure I can shoot corrosive milsurp to my heart's content and make short stuff of cleaning the residue.
When shooting commercial ammo, the problem is non-existent because the primers do not contain chlorates so there's no salty residues remaining in the bore to attract dampness and cause corrosion.
If you live in a very dry climate, the corrosion effect is greatly delayed.
PP.
 
So what happened to ALL those CANADIAN ARMOURERS FUNNELS? I couldn't have bought all of them! (just one crate);)

and before anyone asks, I sold them all off years ago, except for the one I kept.
 
How to properly clean after using corrosive ammo

This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective. Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of commercial cleaners in your home.

Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)

After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper and powder fouling with a vengeance.

Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you are most literally done.

DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...

You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting) of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun) you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...

If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it and get done with it.

As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before shooting it again).

I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even here in humid Florida).

However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could possibly send down it during your lifetime.
 
again I think you guys go way overboard i shoot corrosive ammo all the time and have NEVER used water ever just hopps #9 or clp what evers handy and finnish with an oil patch no rusting on my guns either
 
All you who say they shot corrosive and didnt have any rust...try the so called "non-corrosive" hungarian x39 ammo.

Shot this stuff once, and overnight the whole damn thing was rusty.
Pissed me off but luckily got to it before serious damage was done.

A so called company in Quebec wouldnt even respond to my emails to change their false advertising.
 
Riflechair said:
How to properly clean after using corrosive ammo

This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective. Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of commercial cleaners in your home.

Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)

After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper and powder fouling with a vengeance.

Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you are most literally done.

DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...

You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting) of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun) you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...

If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it and get done with it.

As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before shooting it again).

I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even here in humid Florida).

However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could possibly send down it during your lifetime.
Click to expand...

I knew I read that before. It is from empire arms:
http://64.82.96.51/clean.htm
 
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