Easier corrosive washing...UPDATED

Another one

This morning, made myself another for 7,62x54R. :)

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Now, if I can find a crate of real good ammo, this will be useful.
Any hints about the best shooting ammo in M-91s and M-39s?
PP.
 
How many ounces of water/ammonia solution does it take to clean a rifle?

When is the best time to clean and what's the longest time you can wait after shooting to clean?
 
Coyote Ugly said:
How many ounces of water/ammonia solution does it take to clean a rifle?

When is the best time to clean and what's the longest time you can wait after shooting to clean?
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Best time to clean is immediately upon returning from the range. Sure, if you live in a very dry climate (<35% relative humidity) you can wait a bit more because the salts will have little water to draw from air and cause corrosion.
You really don't need ammonia in your water because it has no effect whatsoever on the potassium and sodium chloride salts; at most, it can have an effect on oily residues but there isn't much inside a freshly shot barrel and ammonia can be hard on blued finishes if sufficiently strong.
What you need is simply very hot water which will solubilize those salts and take them away.
About a liter of boiling water is sufficient; more is better because it will heat the barrel's metal and the remaining dampness will evaporate rapidly.
If you prefer, you can also squirt a few shots of WD-40 after the flushing; it will displace any remaining droplets.
Once done, just clean like you would after shooting factory non-corrosive ammo with nitro powder solvent and patches.
PP.
 
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contact148 said:
again I think you guys go way overboard i shoot corrosive ammo all the time and have NEVER used water ever just hopps #9 or clp what evers handy and finnish with an oil patch no rusting on my guns either
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I agree. Hoppes # 9 used to say on the bottle that it would clean out corrosive salts but it doesn't anymore. So a friend of mine wrote to Hoppes asking if it was still effective in cleaning out corrosive salts, they wrote back and said "Yes it was". I use Hoppes # 9 to clean my Yugo SKS after shooting Czech corrosive ammo and have had no problems. Just be sure to clean the gas cylinder with Hoppes as well as the bore.
 
Well you folks obviously have your own formulas BUT the military has been "boiling out" barrels since the "Brown Bess" was an issue item, and they wouldn't have kept it up if it didn't work. I would rather use a tea kettle's worth of boiling water and then use Hoppes or Sweet's 7.62 solvent to take care of the copper deposits after that. Hot water only costs the energy to heat it. One other point. EVERY barrel has microscopic cracks in it. Firing drives the salts into those cracks. Boiling hot water expands the metal washing out the salts.

Of course if you use Non corrosive primered ammunition, you don't need the hot water.
 
neutralize

Great looking set of tools...nice work...what I've learned to use, and this also can be done at the range, and finished at home in leisure, is window cleaner...the ammoniated kind. I use windex but the important part is the ammonia...it will neutralize the salts and allow you to clean your firearms normally at leisure.
 
instead of soldering the copper to the different casings, couldnt a mixture of 5 minute epoxy or such be used?
also then couldnt pvc tubing instead of copper..........just wondering?
nice work if selling them what cost to make 1 ? then what price?
 
Cleaning corrosive salts

762shooter said:
I agree. Hoppes # 9 used to say on the bottle that it would clean out corrosive salts but it doesn't anymore. So a friend of mine wrote to Hoppes asking if it was still effective in cleaning out corrosive salts, they wrote back and said "Yes it was". I use Hoppes # 9 to clean my Yugo SKS after shooting Czech corrosive ammo and have had no problems. Just be sure to clean the gas cylinder with Hoppes as well as the bore.
Click to expand...

I just noticed that my current bottle of Hoppes #9 says, "Removes corrosive primer flouling and residue." That seems pretty clear to me.
 
NB.nagantsniper said:
instead of soldering the copper to the different casings, couldnt a mixture of 5 minute epoxy or such be used?
also then couldnt pvc tubing instead of copper..........just wondering?
nice work if selling them what cost to make 1 ? then what price?
Click to expand...

Soldering is a lot faster! when I'm tinkering, I just can't wait for the results and even so-called "five minute" epoxy bores me to death. Besides, it always ends up on my fingers and is a real pain to get off...:mad:
As for PVC, it is ugly and not as rigid as good ole copper pipe when subjected to boiling water for a few minutes. I wanted something that would be self-standing and not prone to drop a funnel full of boiling water on me.
And besides, there's nothing like polished copper with my wood and steel milsurps.
Maybe with a Mattel plastic rifle ;) if someday they revert to corrosive...:p
PP.
 
A little salt !

John Sukey said:
Ammonia WILL NOT NEUTRALIZE THE SALTS. Thats what the water is for, to wash out the salt. Ammonia will only take care of COPPER deposits.:runaway:
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Windex is the easiest way to clean corrosive . Ammonia does nothing but the water and detergent does. The ammonia "d" in windex is a drying agent, makes it evaporate fast - no flash rust as with water.
However boiling windex may be viable for leaching salt out of "microscopic cracks" - except I've never had corrosion result from using sprayed on cold windex and dont know if it is worth the effort :):):)
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