Edm Clinic Was Awesome!!!

The clinic was a load of help, my M-14 in the Boyds stock shoots awesome, tightened the gas action, tightened the op-rod guide and smoothed out the trigger group. My rifle in the JAE stock looks cool but still shoots like crap. It had it's on days and it's off days, now it seems that all of the days are off for it. The throat looks like a gravel road with a lot of washboard, maybe the button tool was on barrel 1,000,031. Might be a barrel in it's future.
 
Holleyman said:
The clinic was a load of help, my M-14 in the Boyds stock shoots awesome, tightened the gas action, tightened the op-rod guide and smoothed out the trigger group. My rifle in the JAE stock looks cool but still shoots like crap. It had it's on days and it's off days, now it seems that all of the days are off for it. The throat looks like a gravel road with a lot of washboard, maybe the button tool was on barrel 1,000,031. Might be a barrel in it's future.
Click to expand...

I'll take that junk JAE thing off your hands...................:D
 
Holleyman said:
My rifle in the JAE stock looks cool but still shoots like crap. It had it's on days and it's off days, now it seems that all of the days are off for it.
Click to expand...

Must be that silly JAE. I'll do you a favor and give you a $100 for it. :)

It was great getting to meet you Holleyman, and all the rest of you Nutz.
 
No thanks, I am stubborn am will not risk my #### falling off to ever give up. I will try a different barrel and keep going with it. Eventually it will shoot, it doesn’t even have a choice in the matter.
 
AT least all of you got to see how simple a 're-indexing' procedure turned out to be. Nothing much eh?

Many of you got to witness a few barrel swaps going on, too. :D

The whole objective is to de-mystify all these procedures and try them with the 'finger of authority' watching over ya.... :evil:

Cheers
Barney
 
outstanding!!!

Just got back into Cowtown tonight and had no access to a computer or running water, since the clinic.
Kudo's to Sosa(nice looking broomstick!)for the great show & op-rod,Mrs Sosa for lunch, Hey You,for the chowder(How's the lookin glass workin for ya?. Good I'll bet),Big Tex's unitizing job ( no effects other than cosmetic,pal!)and showing me how to easily install my bolt.
Hungry: It was a pleasure to meet the guru.Your passing of knowledge has eased some worring aspects of m-14 ownership.Look forward to achieving some mods with you in April, here.
Jay T: Thanxs for confirming what I believed about my rifle and pionting me in the right direction with regards to my closet Queen

GREAT FUN; Jabber
 
Just curious... who was the guy that bedded his Boyd stock? I just got a USGI stock and was thinking of bedding it, but as always I'd like to talk to someone who has the firsthand knowledge on how to do it. I was drifting in and out of the classroom for the bedding walkthrough... that was a mistake. Haha

Also, does anyone know how I can tell what wood the stock is made from?
 
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;)
Hungry said:
It was wobbles99, I believe. Give him a PM. He's an expert by now. Trust me, this ain't rocket science. No mystery here.... :rolleyes:

Cheers,
Barney
Click to expand...


Thanks for the confidence boost I would call myself an expert... yet;).

I actually just got back from the range today for the first shoot since bedding. The rifle isn't quite MOA yet but we are getting close. My hanloads are just not quite perfect yet.

What I do notice is the gun "pings" much better now. Myself and two other people shot the gun today and everyone who was shooting was sure they could hear the ping when firing. It sounds like someone is hitting a steel tube when you let the gun off. You can't here it unless you are the shooter.

Pretty cool.

I also bedded My marlin 925M for practice. I don't think it made much of a difference but it was a fun experiment.

ERT:

First off to tell what kind of wood you need to looki at the unstained wood. Taking the buttplate off and looking behind it is the best place.

As far as I know most usgi stocks are birch or walnut. Mostly birch. If the wood is light colored it's probably birch, if it's a dark brown it's likely walnut.

Second lets talk bedding:

You'll need:

-Bedding compound. I used a kit called pro-bed 2000. I picked it up from a friend and it cost me nothing. The kit retails for $30.00 and could do dozens of rifles.

I've heard of guys using devon, marine tex, acraglas, and Hungry told me JB weld works too. Basically you need a good solid epoxy resin. JB weld is the cheapest by far and the two tubes you get in the kit will be way more than enough.

-Release compound. The kit I had came with it. Judging by the smell and consistancy I'd be willing to bet it was turtle wax in the kit. I've heard of car wax being used before. It worked for me. Hungry uses a few coats of pam. I haven't tried it but if it'll keep food from sticking it should keep your rifle unstuck too.

-Masking tape. It keeps the bedding compound from sticking where it's not supposed to be.

-A sharp knife. Any sharp knife should do. I used my pocket knife at the clinic.

-A dremel tool and a good ball nosed bit. You'll used this to open up your stock so the bedding compound will stick to it well. If you don't have a dremel I'm sure a drill and a bit will work just as well.

-You'll also need some mixing cups (hungry was nice enough to lend me a cough syrup cup), mixing sticks (popsicle sticks), some acetone (nail polish remover), and some paper towels.


Lets get started!

First, make sure your rifle isn't loaded.

Second, with the rifle fully assembled you'll want to take the sharp knife and scribe the outline of your receiver into the wood. trace around the edges of the receiver up top and the trigger guard below. On the trigger gaurd you only need to trae the raised portion at the front and not the recessed portions.

Now dissassemble the rifle and place the action and trigger gaurd to the side. You'll only need the stock for the next few steps.

It's best to put the stok in a vie or, like I did at the clinic, a workmate, (whoever brought that to the clinic, many thanks). You'll need the stock in a steady rest so both hands are free. Don't forget to put a few rags or something between the stock and the vise so it doesn't get scratched up.

If you look at the scribe marks from the reciever you'll see that now you have a pattern for the channels you are going to put into the stock for the bedding compound. If you look at the back of the action's scribe mark you'll see a horseshoe shape. You'll want to start here. Drill holes about an 1/8'' deep into the wood in the horseshoe pattern and about an inch up the straight edges ahead of it. Make sure you stay within the lines you've scribed and the edge of the inleting. Otherwise it doesn't have to be pretty. Connet the holes to make a channel.

Next you want to do the left front side of the receiver scribe. By left front I mean if you were holding the stock as you would if you were shooting the left side of the rifle and in between the groove for the bolt catch and where the reciever tapers inwards toward the stock inlet. Make a channel here the same way you did the rear of the stock. Again you awnt to stay in the lines and watch out for the taper at the front of the reciever. I got a little carried away with mine and you can just barely see the end of my channel with my receiver in.

Next is the right side. You'll want to make another channel on that straight piece where the op rod rides.

Now you want to flip the stock over and make channels on the two rectangular areas you scribed near the front of the guard.

Also channel out the two areas near the back of the guard. These areas are recessed in and you didn't sribe them. There is a deeper groove in between them.

Now you are done with chopping up your stock. Now you need to mask it.

Basically you'll want to put masking tape down around the edges of where you have scribed and around the trigger gaurd inlet to keep the bedding compound from making a mess of your stock.

Also take a piece of rolled up masking tape and place it in that recession at the back of the trigger gaurd inlet. If you look on the trigger gaurd you'll see that the sear sits in that area. If bedding compound gets in there it can mess with how the gun fires.

Now I would take a break if I were you. Go relax and have a coffee, pop, beer, or something. The next part has to be done in one sitting.

Before bedding you'll need to put some release compound on the metal parts of your gun to keep them from getting glued in. If you are using wax apply it on thick and then let dry and buff off. Make sure you get everywhere you think that bedding compound may go. Put at least four coats on to be sure you've got good coverage.

If you are using pam I'll let hungry tell you how to do it since I haven't tried it.

Now it's time to mix up the compound. Most compounds are a 1 to 1 mix but be sure to read the mixing directions to be sure. You'll need a blob about the size as tip of your pinky.

I've used jb weld, devcon, and probed before for projects and I know the working time with it is around an hour after mixing. This means you have a lot of time to appy it so don't rush.

You'll want to put a layer about an 1/8'' or so on the reciever and trigger group parts in the same spots that your channels are in the stock. If you get the compound on pieces not to be bedded be sure to wipe it off right away with an acetone soaked paper towel.

Once you have your compound applied you can insert the receiver into the top of the stock. Put your trigger group in to the stock but do not latch it into place. You want to turn the trigger guard enough to apply a little pressure on the action and stock but not full pressure. Use a roll pin between the guard and the hole in the safety to hold it in place.

Wipe the squeezed out compound away with acetone and a towel.

Set the assembly aside for at least a day. It will take 24-36 hours for the compound to cure. You'll know the compound is full cured when the leftovers are hard as a rock and have no flex to them. Thin pieces of the compound, like what will be left in the mixing cup will shatter rather than flex when pressure is put on it.

Once fully cured you can now remove the trigger group and action from the stock. Do not be alarmed if the action will not come out. This more than likely because the stock fits the action tightly and not because you glued the action in... well hopefully...:p. I had to brace the stock and use a dowel and mallet to get my action out.

After that it's all clean up. Carefully peel the tape off, I used an exacto knife to cut a nice edge to the bedding and help get the tape away. I also cleaned up the little blobs of compound that leaked out on the inside.

Make sure your rifle is clean and well lubed and re assemble. My gun is nice and tight and is a ##### to get out of the stock now so I made sure it's cleaned well so I won't have to disassemble until it's time to bed again.

Lastly go shoot the thing. Then come back and post so we can all hear how it went for you. Perhaps you can add to this or, even better, post a better how to because I suck at explaining things.

If the guys that took pics and vid while I was working on my stock could post some stuff here it would sure help. I didn't think to bring a camera and I have no pics.

P.S. My C key on my keyboard doesn't work all the time. I tried to edit the best I can but I'm sure I missed a bunch.
 
Wobbles99: All I can say is, "Fzcken A, bubba!" (The Deer Hunter, 1978 if you are a Robert DeNiro fan :D )

Well done, sir. Well described. All of these steps from personal experience is documented in my video (set for download at the top sticky found in this forum, courtesy of Badgerdog) of the Abbotsford 2004 Clinic.

Now you know why I've been flogging the curved tip syringes.... so you can lube your hammer nose and sear hooks WHILE the barreled action is STILL bedded in the stock.

ONLY take out the barreled action for annual (once a year, no joking....) cleaning and tweaking then re-assemble. If you tend to pull off this barreled action too frequently (5 to 10x per season) while the rifle is/was bedded, you will compromise the (mxtherfxcking) tight fit and your accuracy will suffer. :eek:

Yes, that PING sound is exactly what a tight'ened and tuned rifle will sound like. Wait until you hear a firing line at Camp Perry, Ohio during the 300 yard rapid fire stage. 60 seconds of pure (orgasmic level) ping'ing rifles up and down the firing line. Remember that I'm wearing electronic muffs (Peltor Com-Tac's) and the electronic chip does not filter out the pinging sound but rather the concussion (read: BOOM) from the gunfire. So all I can here is ping, ping, ping all around me..... :D Life is good.

Cheers,
Barney
 
This is sticky material!



wobbles99 said:
;)


Thanks for the confidence boost I would call myself an expert... yet;).

I actually just got back from the range today for the first shoot since bedding. The rifle isn't quite MOA yet but we are getting close. My hanloads are just not quite perfect yet.

What I do notice is the gun "pings" much better now. Myself and two other people shot the gun today and everyone who was shooting was sure they could hear the ping when firing. It sounds like someone is hitting a steel tube when you let the gun off. You can't here it unless you are the shooter.

Pretty cool.

I also bedded My marlin 925M for practice. I don't think it made much of a difference but it was a fun experiment.

ERT:

First off to tell what kind of wood you need to looki at the unstained wood. Taking the buttplate off and looking behind it is the best place.

As far as I know most usgi stocks are birch or walnut. Mostly birch. If the wood is light colored it's probably birch, if it's a dark brown it's likely walnut.

Second lets talk bedding:

You'll need:

-Bedding compound. I used a kit called pro-bed 2000. I picked it up from a friend and it cost me nothing. The kit retails for $30.00 and could do dozens of rifles.

I've heard of guys using devon, marine tex, acraglas, and Hungry told me JB weld works too. Basically you need a good solid epoxy resin. JB weld is the cheapest by far and the two tubes you get in the kit will be way more than enough.

-Release compound. The kit I had came with it. Judging by the smell and consistancy I'd be willing to bet it was turtle wax in the kit. I've heard of car wax being used before. It worked for me. Hungry uses a few coats of pam. I haven't tried it but if it'll keep food from sticking it should keep your rifle unstuck too.

-Masking tape. It keeps the bedding compound from sticking where it's not supposed to be.

-A sharp knife. Any sharp knife should do. I used my pocket knife at the clinic.

-A dremel tool and a good ball nosed bit. You'll used this to open up your stock so the bedding compound will stick to it well. If you don't have a dremel I'm sure a drill and a bit will work just as well.

-You'll also need some mixing cups (hungry was nice enough to lend me a cough syrup cup), mixing sticks (popsicle sticks), some acetone (nail polish remover), and some paper towels.


Lets get started!

First, make sure your rifle isn't loaded.

Second, with the rifle fully assembled you'll want to take the sharp knife and scribe the outline of your receiver into the wood. trace around the edges of the receiver up top and the trigger guard below. On the trigger gaurd you only need to trae the raised portion at the front and not the recessed portions.

Now dissassemble the rifle and place the action and trigger gaurd to the side. You'll only need the stock for the next few steps.

It's best to put the stok in a vie or, like I did at the clinic, a workmate, (whoever brought that to the clinic, many thanks). You'll need the stock in a steady rest so both hands are free. Don't forget to put a few rags or something between the stock and the vise so it doesn't get scratched up.

If you look at the scribe marks from the reciever you'll see that now you have a pattern for the channels you are going to put into the stock for the bedding compound. If you look at the back of the action's scribe mark you'll see a horseshoe shape. You'll want to start here. Drill holes about an 1/8'' deep into the wood in the horseshoe pattern and about an inch up the straight edges ahead of it. Make sure you stay within the lines you've scribed and the edge of the inleting. Otherwise it doesn't have to be pretty. Connet the holes to make a channel.

Next you want to do the left front side of the receiver scribe. By left front I mean if you were holding the stock as you would if you were shooting the left side of the rifle and in between the groove for the bolt catch and where the reciever tapers inwards toward the stock inlet. Make a channel here the same way you did the rear of the stock. Again you awnt to stay in the lines and watch out for the taper at the front of the reciever. I got a little carried away with mine and you can just barely see the end of my channel with my receiver in.

Next is the right side. You'll want to make another channel on that straight piece where the op rod rides.

Now you want to flip the stock over and make channels on the two rectangular areas you scribed near the front of the guard.

Also channel out the two areas near the back of the guard. These areas are recessed in and you didn't sribe them. There is a deeper groove in between them.

Now you are done with chopping up your stock. Now you need to mask it.

Basically you'll want to put masking tape down around the edges of where you have scribed and around the trigger gaurd inlet to keep the bedding compound from making a mess of your stock.

Also take a piece of rolled up masking tape and place it in that recession at the back of the trigger gaurd inlet. If you look on the trigger gaurd you'll see that the sear sits in that area. If bedding compound gets in there it can mess with how the gun fires.

Now I would take a break if I were you. Go relax and have a coffee, pop, beer, or something. The next part has to be done in one sitting.

Before bedding you'll need to put some release compound on the metal parts of your gun to keep them from getting glued in. If you are using wax apply it on thick and then let dry and buff off. Make sure you get everywhere you think that bedding compound may go. Put at least four coats on to be sure you've got good coverage.

If you are using pam I'll let hungry tell you how to do it since I haven't tried it.

Now it's time to mix up the compound. Most compounds are a 1 to 1 mix but be sure to read the mixing directions to be sure. You'll need a blob about the size as tip of your pinky.

I've used jb weld, devcon, and probed before for projects and I know the working time with it is around an hour after mixing. This means you have a lot of time to appy it so don't rush.

You'll want to put a layer about an 1/8'' or so on the reciever and trigger group parts in the same spots that your channels are in the stock. If you get the compound on pieces not to be bedded be sure to wipe it off right away with an acetone soaked paper towel.

Once you have your compound applied you can insert the receiver into the top of the stock. Put your trigger group in to the stock but do not latch it into place. You want to turn the trigger guard enough to apply a little pressure on the action and stock but not full pressure. Use a roll pin between the guard and the hole in the safety to hold it in place.

Wipe the squeezed out compound away with acetone and a towel.

Set the assembly aside for at least a day. It will take 24-36 hours for the compound to cure. You'll know the compound is full cured when the leftovers are hard as a rock and have no flex to them. Thin pieces of the compound, like what will be left in the mixing cup will shatter rather than flex when pressure is put on it.

Once fully cured you can now remove the trigger group and action from the stock. Do not be alarmed if the action will not come out. This more than likely because the stock fits the action tightly and not because you glued the action in... well hopefully...:p. I had to brace the stock and use a dowel and mallet to get my action out.

After that it's all clean up. Carefully peel the tape off, I used an exacto knife to cut a nice edge to the bedding and help get the tape away. I also cleaned up the little blobs of compound that leaked out on the inside.

Make sure your rifle is clean and well lubed and re assemble. My gun is nice and tight and is a ##### to get out of the stock now so I made sure it's cleaned well so I won't have to disassemble until it's time to bed again.

Lastly go shoot the thing. Then come back and post so we can all hear how it went for you. Perhaps you can add to this or, even better, post a better how to because I suck at explaining things.

If the guys that took pics and vid while I was working on my stock could post some stuff here it would sure help. I didn't think to bring a camera and I have no pics.

P.S. My C key on my keyboard doesn't work all the time. I tried to edit the best I can but I'm sure I missed a bunch.
Click to expand...
 
Pietro Beretta said:
I dont want to sound like Arnold here, but...Who is Hungry, and what does he do? Does he give the M14 magical powers?
Click to expand...

Here is a picture of Hungry from the last clinic

yoda.jpg


He is a been-there-done-that kinda guy for the M14. A no nonense approach to bringing the full potential out of the M14 platform without dropping $2g's to get there. If you have an M14, you need to attend a clinic. Nuff said.
 
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OMG It is him.Hungry is our Guru on the M14 here in the GWN.Do a search on this forum read the stickies and you'll see why.
 
Piettro Berretta: Nope that was not me. I'm a lot uglier and goofier than most people know. :D Besides, I can't even afford 2 M14's at any ONE time. :D

You can download the 2004 Abbotsford Clinic from the sticki(ies) above the Main Battle Rifle forum and see what I look like. I've lost weight since then.... :rolleyes:

TTYL,
Barney
 
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