Ed's Red in Milsurps?

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So I whipped up my first batch of Ed's Red substituting Lee Liquid Alox for the Lanolin and I'm impressed! I had a Mosin and an SVT where no matter how many patches or passes with a brush they wouldn't come truly clean. 10 minutes with my Ed's Red and I got my first white patches out of them. How many of you have given this a shot or use it regularly? I'm also curious if this stuff will be suitable for cleaning corrosive ammo without a water based flush first. Any guesses how long 2 liters will last me? :)
 
The corrosive salts should be flushed out with water, the British pored two pints of boiling water down the bores of their Enfield rifles.

This flushed out the corrosive salts and also removed the carbon, the rest of the boiling water was used for brewing up a pot of tea.

I think the first time I read about boiling water down the bore was Hemingway's "The Snows of Kilimanjaro" and after the boiling water the bores were oiled. (no bore brushes)

I use foam bore cleaner in frosted and pitted bores to reduce the cleaning rod usage and remove all the copper and carbon.

Spare the rod and spoil the bore, a frosted or pitted bore bore will eat a copper bore brush and give a false copper reading.

As a side note years ago I made some Ed's Red and I can tell you the newer foam bore cleaners work better and is much less work
 
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i use ed's red to clean my surplus rifles, all my rifles really. i only shoot cast/lead bullets in my mill surplus rifles (43 Mausers, 303 British and 22 trainers) and no surplus ammo, due to unable to find and i collect any surplus 303 ammo as i find it.

when i had an sks ( and had surplus ammo) for a while id use water first then ed's red after

i love the stuff but ill admit I've never use anything else........
 
I use eds red on all my rifles, realy lossens crud. I shoot cast as well so it lifts lead and cleans. As a lube it is not that great, VVL or reduced 2 stroke oil is best.
boil and oil after corrsive, period.
2l lasts me a while, my so called friends chew it up faster than I do.
Be safe
 
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Nothing works BETTER than hot water to remove the corrosive salts from the primers. The old Cordite sticks weren't corrosive but burned extremely hot which also led to wear and pitting. The Rottweil flake powders at the turn of the 20th century also burned hot and I have read some believe it or some clones were corrosive as well.

There is a product we see today called Ballistol. It was a general purpose cleaner/lubricant/preservative that was developed around 1900 or a bit later that is very good for what it was designed to do but I believe hot water was still the most reliable otherwise the world's militaries wouldn't have used it up to the mid sixties. Some even later, depending on how much of the surplus ammo they stockpiled for their own use.

After using presumed corrosive ammo, boiling water and either foaming Wipe Out or brushable Wipe Out get used religiously. Liquid Wipe Out is my preference because it can be purchased in half litre containers far more reasonably than the foam cans.
 
I was going to make a batch of E`s R ,but heard it does not remove copper fouling.

I suppose this is the purpose of Ammonia in certain brands ?

PT
 
I've got a 5 gallon pail I store my eds red in. Basket in the bottom for the small parts. Tear down, thrown all steel parts in. Nylon brush all the surfaces. Assemble. Wipe down. Keeps the sks very happy.
 
I use eds red on my milsurps. Not the best cleaner out there as others have mentioned, but for the price it works pretty good in a pinch for most use.

IT WILL NOT NEUTRALIZE CORROSIVE SALTS! At least not completely. I thoroughly went through my sks with eds red inside and out and the barrel still ended up with some rust. I even bathed the op rod in eds after scrubbing and it still came out with some spots Always go hot water first. Always.
 
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