Educate me on Robinson Arms XCR's

Any tips or advice on these guns for a relative newbie to black rifles? (unless of course you count CZ 858's) Thanks

Yes, buy some rail covers to cover the bottom rail. I don't known what it is about the one on my XCR compared to other rifles, but it likes to chew my hands. I covered it in UTG rubber rail covers, then pulled the stock side ones off and replaced them with ladder style covers as the ones that come with it feel a little fat to me. Feels way nicer now (I use a VFG as well).
 
I had read the forums before I got mine so the first thing I did when I got it home was completely tear it down. The whole trigger group, safety lever, grip off, firng pin out of the bolt, ect,ect. Then I closely inspected everything as I de-greased/oil every piece and part and the internal threads on the reciever with alcohol based brake cleaner then blew them all dry.

Then I locktite'd every screw, and oiled everything but the firing pin with some gun oil in the cleaning kit.

I took it out that day and started shootig on gas setting 4 but knowing lower settings will be easier on the rifle I quickly got it down to level 1. Shot 200ish rounds that day with zero malfunctions.

Then I took it home and pulled the bolt and trigger group again for fun. This is where I made a little mistake. I decided this time to oil the bolt/carrier and trigger group with some Lukas 15-40 synthetic oil. This heavy lube caused too much viscous drag on the hammer which caused almost every primer to blank (the firing pin not only needs to hit the primer hard enough to ignite it but the pin must also be carrying enough energy to support the primer during ignition or else the pressure punches disks out of the primer, back through the firing pin hole on the bolt face) filling the reciever with little disks. I confirmed oil was the cause on my next outting by cleanig the hammer pivot, switching lube, firing, pull it apart, clean, switch lube, fire, repeat over and over untill I was 110% sure it was the oil and not the rifle. Then I nerded right out and weighed the hammer, firing pin, researched what the average "lock time" in semi auto rifles was, measured my hammer spring, calculated how fast it could accelerate the rotation of the hammer, blah blah blah, nerd nerd nerd, then did some simple physics calculations (nerding) and found
that the tip of my firing pin should be exerting something in the high 50 000- 60 000 psi assuming no friction or drag. ...... Long story short too thick of oil onthe hammer slows it down too much.

So I settled on Lukas 15-40 on the bolt/carrier because it's slippery and sticky... It stays put. On the hammer I use a very very thin light oil called triflow and it smells amazing too.

I put almost 4000 rounds through it without a single cleaning or oiling and still not a single malfunction or any screw loose. I recently gave it it's 3rd cleaning and put a couple hundred more through.

Aparently some people have had massive point of impact changes aftere removing and reinstalling the barrel. In my opinion it's because these people didn't have the feel for seating the screw properly in the dimple of the barrel. I take mine off and on all the time now and I've never noticed any shift whatsoever, but I must admit I'm only shooting iron sights so there may be some but I expect very little if anything over 1/4moa.
 
Rail covers and light lube. I bought mine used (6.8). Then bought a 5.56 barrel bolt assembly. I love this thing. The AR's are now the wife's and junior's, you won't be dissapointed. But keep in mind, this is not a 1/4 moa varmint gun. That being said mine's popped a few rodents. No yotes yet, or Deer but no hunting time really in the last couple of years.:( .
 
If you're wondering what version of all the parts you have, you can email RA with the serial number and they will look it up for you to see what parts you might need to bring it up to the most recent version. I did that when I ordered mine and they were able to tell me that it had all the most recent upgrades when shipped.
 
I had read the forums before I got mine so the first thing I did when I got it home was completely tear it down. The whole trigger group, safety lever, grip off, firng pin out of the bolt, ect,ect. Then I closely inspected everything as I de-greased/oil every piece and part and the internal threads on the reciever with alcohol based brake cleaner then blew them all dry.

Then I locktite'd every screw, and oiled everything but the firing pin with some gun oil in the cleaning kit.

I took it out that day and started shootig on gas setting 4 but knowing lower settings will be easier on the rifle I quickly got it down to level 1. Shot 200ish rounds that day with zero malfunctions.

Then I took it home and pulled the bolt and trigger group again for fun. This is where I made a little mistake. I decided this time to oil the bolt/carrier and trigger group with some Lukas 15-40 synthetic oil. This heavy lube caused too much viscous drag on the hammer which caused almost every primer to blank (the firing pin not only needs to hit the primer hard enough to ignite it but the pin must also be carrying enough energy to support the primer during ignition or else the pressure punches disks out of the primer, back through the firing pin hole on the bolt face) filling the reciever with little disks. I confirmed oil was the cause on my next outting by cleanig the hammer pivot, switching lube, firing, pull it apart, clean, switch lube, fire, repeat over and over untill I was 110% sure it was the oil and not the rifle. Then I nerded right out and weighed the hammer, firing pin, researched what the average "lock time" in semi auto rifles was, measured my hammer spring, calculated how fast it could accelerate the rotation of the hammer, blah blah blah, nerd nerd nerd, then did some simple physics calculations (nerding) and found
that the tip of my firing pin should be exerting something in the high 50 000- 60 000 psi assuming no friction or drag. ...... Long story short too thick of oil onthe hammer slows it down too much.

So I settled on Lukas 15-40 on the bolt/carrier because it's slippery and sticky... It stays put. On the hammer I use a very very thin light oil called triflow and it smells amazing too.

I put almost 4000 rounds through it without a single cleaning or oiling and still not a single malfunction or any screw loose. I recently gave it it's 3rd cleaning and put a couple hundred more through.

Aparently some people have had massive point of impact changes aftere removing and reinstalling the barrel. In my opinion it's because these people didn't have the feel for seating the screw properly in the dimple of the barrel. I take mine off and on all the time now and I've never noticed any shift whatsoever, but I must admit I'm only shooting iron sights so there may be some but I expect very little if anything over 1/4moa.

Good post! I enjoyed the read. Thank you. I will do that with mine when it arrives.
 
So I took it out this morning. I was absolutely shocked when it shot sub MOA with MFS 55 gr HP ammo. I was very impressed other than the muzzle brake coming loose. Looks like it needs loctite. :sok2
 
Is that aftermarket muzzle brake on the .223 or the 6.8.

I had mine out today as well, first time I have used it in cold weather (-10). She worked great also

The brake is on both barrels but I was shooting 223. It's gonna get some red loctite in a few minutes.... I forgot to turn down the gas port though and I did fire 30 rounds at position 4.
 
So I took it out this morning. I was absolutely shocked when it shot sub MOA with MFS 55 gr HP ammo. I was very impressed other than the muzzle brake coming loose. Looks like it needs loctite. :sok2

All XCR muzzle brakes have their pins welded in place. Is yours not? Or did the actual weld break?

If I remember correctly, RA had to weld them in place to appease some export reg.
 
Folks will say it is junk because some rifles(maybe all) need to have fasteners loctited, but last i heard NEA where loctiting components on their AR15, and the NEA AR15 is the best thing since sliced bread.....

Threadlocker is a good idea on any threaded fastener that sees shock loading (read: guns).

The AR15 uses almost no threaded fasteners and I have no idea which fasteners NEA loctites, but I'd guess it's the ones holding the handguard on.

Virtually all major hand guard makers sell their HG's with loctite pre-applied to the threads.

Nobody is disappointed the XCR fasteners back out, they are disappointed the lactate is not applied at the factory, causing some owners to irretrievably lose parts in the field before finding out they need loctite.
 
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