Elk Question - What Would You Do?

Bowie

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There is a very good chance of being drawn for a southern Alberta bull elk tag this year - bald ass prairie where shots could be long. I have a bit of a gap in my rifle collection right now though. I have these options available to me right now: 6.5x55, .308, .375 H&H.
Would you shoot one of these? Right now I am leaning towards the .375 with a 235gr TSX. Or do I get off my wallet and buy a .300?
 
How long is "long".

For me 300 yards is "long".

For "further" a 7mm RM or 300 WM might be a better choice.

Less than 300 (or there abouts) I would consider the Swede - it's enough.
 
The 6.5 x 55 is the rifle for me. I believe strongly that you practice with what you will use. With the 6.5 you can, and should, send a whole bunch of rounds down range (100 rounds or greater) this summer and not suffer pain, either physical or financial, and also not develop a nasty flinch. It is plenty of bullet for the job and holds nicely out to reasonably long distances. Again, this is my choice, but ranges beyond 400 yards are simply not acceptable to me.

You could easily plug in .308 in place of 6.5 and the reasoning would be almost the same. Full Disclosure: I am not a fan of magnum calibers and believe they are a waste of time and money.

You asked "What would I do?"....I answered.
Dave​
 
Work the draws and get within your range. That is why it is hunting not just shooting. I like the 300 win but I have little doubt you can get within the range of your 375. If it was me, 375 would win.
 
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I know the territory you're going to if you're lucky- I live in Calgary, and I don't think you'd be wrong toting the 375- the 300, any 300 , is just an 06 or 308 gone to super speed- same bullet weights, same pbr within 50 yards- the 308 is 267, 3006 is 276 and the 300 is 325- so with the 06 and the 308 you just have to stalk a little more- less than 50 yards- elk ( wapiti) are heavily built can "vanish" at the most inopportune times- your 375 beats almost everything hands down- as long as you're "comfortable " with it and can place the slug where it counts- me, I have a 338 and I load it with 250 grain spirepoints- usually speer- I used to use 275 semispitzers but sadly those are no longer available- a really great bullet for everything- the 250 spitzer is just about as good, and maybe a little more range
 
considering the drop at 350 yards with a 308 win 180 is some 44 inches-?
 
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One thing to remember regarding Elk is that unlike Moose and Deer, an Elk does not give up easily.
A close friend and avid Elk hunter watched in shock one day when a fine Bull heart-shot took off running and made it over a quarter mile before collapsing in heavy timber thus requiring a lot of serious work to retrieve.
He was using a 300 Win. Mag. and a heavy load with a Swift A-Frame.
Now he carries a 340 Weatherby using either a Barnes TSX or the Swift.
For that reason I will leave my 6.5s and 308s in the safe and carry one of my 375s... if I'm lucky enough to be drawn.
Nothing against the 6.5 s or 308s, I have several and like them a lot but considering the terrain where I would hunt Elk I will carry a bit heavier insurance because I don't like tracking a wounded animal..
 
Of all the cervids, the Elk is by far the hardest to anchor "right there."
That being said, NO animal will travel very far without lungs to breathe with.

I have been privileged to take a large number of Elk in my lifetime, and an even larger number of Moose, and the latter give up easy compared to the former.

If your shots are on the long side, I would opt for your 375. It arrives with considerably more authority, and just makes a bigger hole.

The 6.5x55 and the 308 will do the job, but definitely give you less leeway.

Contrary to the "anti-magnum" post here, I do favor the 300 mags or the 338 mags for elk.
[I have shot more elk with the 308 Norma Mag than with any other chambering]

But a magnum is not an absolute necessity, as a couple of Elk taken with the 7x57 could testify, lol.

Important to know your rifle well, shoot it a lot, and know it's limitations.

Regards, Dave.
 
One thing to remember regarding Elk is that unlike Moose and Deer, an Elk does not give up easily.
A close friend and avid Elk hunter watched in shock one day when a fine Bull heart-shot took off running and made it over a quarter mile before collapsing in heavy timber thus requiring a lot of serious work to retrieve.
He was using a 300 Win. Mag. and a heavy load with a Swift A-Frame.
Now he carries a 340 Weatherby using either a Barnes TSX or the Swift.
For that reason I will leave my 6.5s and 308s in the safe and carry one of my 375s... if I'm lucky enough to be drawn.
Nothing against the 6.5 s or 308s, I have several and like them a lot but considering the terrain where I would hunt Elk I will carry a bit heavier insurance because I don't like tracking a wounded animal..

Can you explain how an animal heart shot with a .243 or a .375 makes any difference? My guess is the animal was not heart shot. I don't doubt Elk are very tough but I don't believe they can magically defy the means to sustain life as any other living organism.
 
I would go with the .308, and do as suggested - sight in high at 100 OR get a Leupold CDS for you rifle/bullet match (which is what I did for my .308) I n which case you want to be zero at 100.

Then practice, practice, practice and I mean practice (don't miss practice like Allen Iverson) with that rilfe - offhand, sitting, kneeling, etc

Try out the CDS at different yardages at the range to see how repeatable it is. (it is very)

Have fun whatever you choose
 
Any animal heart shot will run, thats just the way it works. Pick your calibre and practice, practice, practice. They will all work if you do your job properly.
they run even further when lung shot.

removing the heart with a bullet stops blood flow immediately (no more oxygen via the blood to muscles or brain immediately) With a lung shot the process is slower as the oxygen that was in the blood is still being supplied only now with a hole in the system
 
Compared to a deer, an elk has a very large neck.
Maybe a neck shot would drop one in its tracks?

Of course I defer to hunters in the north..
getting an elk tag here in southern Vancouver island is liking winning the 649.
 
one other piece of advice- get a good outfitter that knows the country and runs HORSES- you can get far closer using a horse and train than you can on foot- and it's easier on you - I should imagine this is a once in a lifetime deal, so don't skimp on rifle, cost, or anything - remember, you not only have to get draw, you also have to BE LUCKY -so, get into the best shape you have ever been in your live, learn to ride, do a lot of high country recce, ( bring your camera)and for god sakes, BE READY- where I would start would be to pick up a book by my old friend VAL GIEST- on elk- he was a prof on ungulates at u of c - I forget the title but you can google it- elk seem to be afraid of man's stink, but have no problems with a man on horseback- dismount to shoot of course-you are NOT a cowboy- since you're in Alberta, I should imagine you're in the sundre to Coleman corridor and just east of the of the continental divide- maybe as far east as medicine hat- now look at where these 308 guys are posting from- that tell u something?
 
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Lol...really 44 inches....maybe when zeroed at 100 yards.....sight in 3.75 inchs high at 100 yards....OR use bullet drop reticle ?? AND it will easily kill an Elk at 350-400 yards.

Get a mildot reticle with mil turrets and learn/confirm the dope for your round. Who cares what the drop is. Guys are only afraid of a rounds drop when they don't know their rig well.

Vast majority of hunters I know "kinda" zero at 200 and basically point and shoot. That can work at up to 200 or so but but beyond that it can be a crap shoot.
 
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