Endless cleaning of 98k bore

Hot water works yes the British did it that way they also ran a piece of screen down the barrel I've used both I also will plug one end of the barrel and fill it up with easy off oven cleaner then let it sock for 10 or 15 mins it usually takes everything off. Then just do normal cleaning again.WD40 and/or 3in1 oil works good for final cleaning. Also ATF trans fluid.



I got a Russian capture 98k recently. After stripping it to record the Waffenampts and inspection, I started to clean the bore. My brushes and jags are .30cal and my patches are British military surplus flannelette in a roll.

So far I've soaked it with Hoppes No.9 and now get clean oily patches and slightly black dry patches. Switch to RB17 bore solvent, and I'm pulling rusty brown patches off the jag. Scrub with a bronze brush. Run the patches until they come out clean. Switch to Foaming Bore Cleaner. It isn't getting much out, but it floats off anything lingering. Switch to some abrasives - JB Paste and an old yellow bottle of Remington scratchy liquid. The patches go from clean to black. Then the cycle repeats. I think I am progressively working through very old layers of fouling that have been there since WWII.
 
Could automobile rubbing compound be used in place of JB paste/Remington paste?
Perhaps mixed with a bit of oil?
Or would it be too abrasive? It is used on car finishes, after all.
 
...if there's pitting, there's corrosion...period...

...some shoot well with corrosion...some owners can't tolerate corrosion...which are you...?

...i can't tolerate corrosion...i lap-the-crap out of mil surp bores and if they don't come out like a queen then i sell them as bawdy-dancers...

...truth hurts...
 
Could automobile rubbing compound be used in place of JB paste/Remington paste?
Perhaps mixed with a bit of oil?
Or would it be too abrasive? It is used on car finishes, after all.

...in a word, yes, rubbing compound, or better yet, polishing compound makes a great paste...start with the polishing and become more aggressive if over a VERY long period of time you see no improvements...no improvement means corrosion...depends on your own standards whether the tart stays in you gun cabinet or not! (...VD never goes away)
 
If you know someone at an engine rebuilding shop, go to the cleaning tank and leave it soaking. After a few days it will be clean.
you could also buy a small barrel of industrial carburetor cleaner and soak it
 
I have tried plenty of stuff and read many posts on this and the only thing that worked was a 50/50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Soak for 15 minutes, swab and then use any old copper remover as directed. Repeat. Make sure that you remove the copper remover before repeating the vinager/peroxide mix. I did this to an old Mosin and it absolutely worked 100% but it still took a lot of time and effort. Watch the 50/50 mix as it can be very corrosive on un-protected surfaces. As the bore becomes clean look for 'muck' around the base of the rifling. When the muck is gone than the bore is clean.
 
If you can find them, the Parker-Hale bronze brushes are (were?) the best for cleaning old milsurps. They have more bristles, are thicker and tighter than any other brand I've tried. When I had a new .30 cal brush it even worked well for 8mm.
 
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