enfield #2, 38sw, and bullseye

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geotndtwine

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Hi I just got an enfield #2 its in 38sw, never loaded this cartridge before. In my lyman cast reloading manual it states you should not use their loads for break tops. I was wondering are they referring to the old break tops from the black powder era, or does the enfield fall in with the other break tops as well. Any ways do you have an loads with bullseye and 148gr and 200gr boolits, I really like using bullseye or other powder you can suggest that is somewhat available(seen loads with Unique but that stuff is just memories).
 
This cartridge is very easy to load once you have the brass. You can use 38 special bullets that are 357 diameter or even 9 mm which are 356. Depending on the bore condition of your revolver of course. If above choices are no good for you, then 360 diameter bullets is your other option. You can use any pistol powder and can load close to 9 mm specks. Don't get your hopes up that you'll get 9 mm velocities though. As soon as the slug leaves that short cylinder and jumps the gap to the barrel it will loose half of its speed. So no matter how hot you load it, its waste to put anything more than 3 grains of what ever pistol powder you decide to use.
My revolvers like 158 grains bullets so in my opinion its better to use bullets as heavy as possible, although 125 leds i've tried group nicely, but you need to aim really high.
Its nice cartridge to play with although, its beyond me as where dealers get the notion that they can charge 44 magnum prices for box of 50 38sw
G76
 
geotndtwine said:
Hi I just got an enfield #2 its in 38sw, never loaded this cartridge before. In my lyman cast reloading manual it states you should not use their loads for break tops. I was wondering are they referring to the old break tops from the black powder era, or does the enfield fall in with the other break tops as well. Any ways do you have an loads with bullseye and 148gr and 200gr boolits, I really like using bullseye or other powder you can suggest that is somewhat available(seen loads with Unique but that stuff is just memories).
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I don't believe the Enfield is weak like some of the other old break top revolvers apparently are. Bullseye seems a bit fast for a first choice, but I'm sure it would work if you had a very moderate load. I've used Titegroup, which is fairly fast as far as pistol powder goes, but Unique was my "go to" for this round.

I'll have to disagree with gewehr76 about loading the 38 S&W close to 9 mm specs. A 150 grain bullet out of a 38 S&W at 700-750 fps is probably a very peppy load.
 
saskgunowner101 said:
I'll have to disagree with gewehr76 about loading the 38 S&W close to 9 mm specs. A 150 grain bullet out of a 38 S&W at 700-750 fps is probably a very peppy load.
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Ditto. It ain't no 9mm.

Look up the original specs for the cartridge and load somewhat accordingly. Cross check the Lyman loads against those of as many other sources as you can find, and compare.

And yeah, G76, I agree with ya on the price thing, but that's what we get having a low demand item. At least they still make it.

Cheers
Trev
 
9mm is about 35,000 psi. I would guess the 38 S&W is around 10,000 psi.

Your revolver is stronger than the Saturday Night Specials, but don't go hotter than the max in the book. No need to for just punching holes in paper.

The bore is bigger than a 38 Spl. Best is to buy the .361 lead SWC bullets from the Bullet Barn. They shoot very well in my guns. Second choice is the 148 Hollow base wad cutter.

As for powder, Bullseye, TiteGroup, 231, Clays, Unique, etc. Any of the fast to medium speed powders you can get your hands on.
 
It's not a break top in the sense that they mean old, cheap pocket guns and black powder era pressures. The service load was serious business. Most accurate loads I have found are in the middle of the range for standard loadings, so there's no reason to push max anyways. The "break top" loads are so low you're not going to hit anything. Maybe not with bullseye, but the bullets were tumbling with some powders.
 
I shoot Bullseye under 155 grain cast SWC's in mine. Unique is the better powder for it, as the Bullseye takes such a low volume it can be easy to double charge and difficult to meter well.
 
I use 1.8 grains of Unique under my 180 grain hollow base cast bullets. This load makes all of the revolvers I have with this chambering, which are all milsurps, have a stout recoil. The biggest problem is getting bullets that are of the proper diameter or soft enough to obdurate into the lands. for a tight fit and good accuracy.

Your No2 is a tough revolver and is likely capable of handling higher pressures. The thing is why bother??? The higher pressures just cause things to loosen up.

India bought a bunch of Ruger Security Six revolvers for their police. Those could easily handle 9mm loads.
 
No I really am not looking to get into pushing the boolit as fast as possible. I mean really either way 200fps or 2000fps its a hole in paper or ting on my metal targets. I just wanted a jumping point. As for molds I have a lathe at home and I am attempting to make some molds, when I finish could be years. At the moment I was just going to cast some pure lead 148gr .359 just to see how they do. As for the bullseye double charge, I have a single stage press, and I powder 50 brass in front of the TV then place boolits on in the basement. I know loading and TV bad, but my OCD is really bad and I always triple check things.
 
geotndtwine said:
No I really am not looking to get into pushing the boolit as fast as possible. I mean really either way 200fps or 2000fps its a hole in paper or ting on my metal targets. I just wanted a jumping point. As for molds I have a lathe at home and I am attempting to make some molds, when I finish could be years. At the moment I was just going to cast some pure lead 148gr .359 just to see how they do. As for the bullseye double charge, I have a single stage press, and I powder 50 brass in front of the TV then place boolits on in the basement. I know loading and TV bad, but my OCD is really bad and I always triple check things.
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The fellows here that have been powder coating are really onto something. The PC when cured slightly increases the diameter of the cast bullets to fill the grooves better and eliminates the need for lubricant.

As far as making molds goes. I have done this by modifying existing molds by increasing the inside diameter of the mold a few thou. This has only been necessary because it is getting extremely difficult to source hollow base molds. That being said Every gun show I go to there are molds that are as new on the tables for $25-$30 in everything from .22 to 58 cal. Then there are also shot gun slug molds and shot molds as well at similar or slightly higher prices.

Most people that start to cast or get the idea they should seldom follow through in depth. There is a bit of an art to it, such as sourcing materials, setting up melting pots to do large quantities and purchasing smaller electric pots to actually pour the lead into the mold. Of course, you have to be able to judge the hardness of your casting mixture after it cools. Etc. Etc.

Jethunter is one of the real casting experts here and he could walk you through the process if you ask him politely.
 
Casting I love it, been casting for 10yrs now, during the cold winter days, I will cast piles and piles. I love casting so much I rarely ever buy bullets from the store. Usually a box of 100 will do 3-5 years for hunting, depend how much I do. Casting all the way for everything else. I have read that you can hunt with cast boolits, but I am not to certain weather I am allowed to hunt with them in Alberta. I have Paper Patched and I love the accuracy and with pure lead, they will expand. But I have been working on turning my own molds, not because it will save me money just more so that I can say I did that myself, plus I can make some real weird ones.
 
geotndtwine said:
Casting I love it, been casting for 10yrs now, during the cold winter days, I will cast piles and piles. I love casting so much I rarely ever buy bullets from the store. Usually a box of 100 will do 3-5 years for hunting, depend how much I do. Casting all the way for everything else. I have read that you can hunt with cast boolits, but I am not to certain weather I am allowed to hunt with them in Alberta. I have Paper Patched and I love the accuracy and with pure lead, they will expand. But I have been working on turning my own molds, not because it will save me money just more so that I can say I did that myself, plus I can make some real weird ones.
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OK, pure lead is pretty soft though. In my very limited experience the only time I will use pure lead is with paper patching and maybe (after I get some coated) powder coated bullets. Lead balls for my muzzle loaders are dead soft as well.

The reason I mentioned cheap molds is because they offer a very good place to start and have all of the outside work done already which saves hours of set up time.
 
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