Ok, so a while back i posted i might have some headspace issue on my no4, and some of you suggested i buy another bolthead and switch it. Now i was browsing the web and read that boltheads were numbered from 0 to 3? Is that so? Because mine is numbered 3, and if 3 is the longest one available, i'm SOL.
Enfield boltheads
- Thread starter TheCanuck
- Start date
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
yes 
unless someone in the past has ground down the bolt head, unlikely
get out the calipers and measure it.
unless someone in the past has ground down the bolt head, unlikely
get out the calipers and measure it.
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
You can also try and swap the bolt as well. There can be minor variables to the bolt length, which can effect the headspace. There are also variations in the thickness of the various boltheads, even with the same number.
If neither of these clears up the problem, and the rifle is nothing special, then you are in for some tough choices. It is not cost effective to have the barrel set back, but you could always find a sporterised donor rifle and replace the receiver and bolt. Often these sporterised rifles can be had at a bargain. I just picked up two, one a savage and one a matched LB, for $40 each.
An article I read a bunch of years back mentioned the danger of forcing a Enfield closed onto a no-go guage. It estimated the force at the bolthead in the range of 18,000 pounds thanks to the leverage of the bolt handle. That kind of force can ruin the bolt or receiver in a hurry.
If neither of these clears up the problem, and the rifle is nothing special, then you are in for some tough choices. It is not cost effective to have the barrel set back, but you could always find a sporterised donor rifle and replace the receiver and bolt. Often these sporterised rifles can be had at a bargain. I just picked up two, one a savage and one a matched LB, for $40 each.
An article I read a bunch of years back mentioned the danger of forcing a Enfield closed onto a no-go guage. It estimated the force at the bolthead in the range of 18,000 pounds thanks to the leverage of the bolt handle. That kind of force can ruin the bolt or receiver in a hurry.
stencollector said:
Thanks for mentioning that about the no go gauge, I hadn't heard that.
I have a .303 field gauge in the mail on the way here.
So, the correct procedure would be:
remove the extractor from the bolt head
insert no go gauge into chamber
gently attempt to close bolt with two fingers on handle, no excessive pressure, stop when resistance felt.
Accurate or is there more I need to know? (I've never done it)
The gauge I'm getting is Forster field 0.70", only because the military 0.74" gauge is not so easy to find.
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Maybe I'm not doing it right but since it's a rimmed case, I slide the rim of the gauge under the extractor so it's held on the bolt face. Then gently close the action until resistance is felt. Don't see the need to remove the extractor. It would be different for a rimless case where you need to push the extractor over the rim.
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
Slash5 said:
I do it this way as well.
I have a .74" gauge that I turned on the lathe
Slash5 said:
I hope to hear about this from those who know...I did recently read that you are supposed to remove the extractor and use a feather light touch on the bolt...at first resistance you're there.
Interesting article re Military spec vs. SAAMI on here:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/shooters/equip.htm
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