Removing the Ishy screw hole.
Claven, I think that you are right. I just changed my browser settings and took a look at pics in higher resolution (I'm on country dail-up). It does indeed look to have been fitted with the dreaded Ishy screw!
Ardent, Is this an Enfield made forearm, or is it one whittled in Afganistan? It looks pretty good but I note the fit around the mag well is a bit shy. Woodwork looks to be heavily sanded.
An Ishy screw to me, although not the best cosmetics, is still a part of the rifle's history, or in this case, a part of the forearm's history. Strange that they would put an Ishy screw in a Long Tom, the original idea was to reinforce the wood and prevent splitting of the forearm in the king screw area because of the stresses created by using the rifle for grenade launching. Not something I would imagine the Long Lee would be used for. Saying that, I did see pics of a flintlock mounted with a discharger cup in a book once, so anything could be possible.
I have removed the Ishy screw and plugged the hole on a couple of rifles. Alot of time and fiddling, but it made a big improvement. It has to be done neatly and with matching wood, otherwise it looks even worse than the screw.
I have several Bubba'd pieces of rifle wood that I use for scraps of walnut. I use a tiny 3/8 inch hole saw and drill into an old butt stock to create the plugs (comercial doweling is not suitable because the grain runs in the wrong direction). I give an ever so slight taper to the plug by rubbing its edge on some sandpaper. I drill the Ishy screw hole out each side of the stock slowly with a cabinet maker's brace and bit making sure that the hole is cut clean with no splinters or raggy edges. I only go about 1/4 inch deep. I tap the plugs in with some white wood glue and leave to dry 24 hours.
To finish it up I put duct tape with a hole in it over the plug to protect the surrounding area and then carefully handfile the plug down to the surface. I final finish with fine garnet paper on a sanding block to match the surface. Once finished, it looks as good as any armoury repair, the trick is the taper that insures a nice snug fit with a very fine glue line. Matching the grain and grain direction correctly camouflages it, and can be almost invisible. The colour of the plug can be adjusted with the dye pens that are available to cover scratches in antique furnature. I have had excellent luck using alcohol based leather dyes too, they come in a zillion shades of brown. On some rifles, the plug can be taken from below the wood line inside the barrel channel, then the plugs are pretty well guaranteed to match.
Another way to get rid of a hole is to use a sharp 1/2 inch wood carving gouge and scoop out the area with the hole in one stroke in the direction of the wood grain. This leaves a cupped hole that can be filled with a plug taken from a scrap also using one scoop with the same wood gouge. Usualy I can get the gouged plug close to a pefect fit. This method works well to get rid of nasty dings and cuts too. I learnt these little tricks and a few more from restoring fine antique furnature. Wood is wood.
M&D is a Canadian martial mark, it stands for 'Militia and Defense' and is usualy on the right side of the stock as Albayo has noted on his rifle.
(I'm not holding my breath, but figured it was worth asking those more knowledgeable.) Serial is matching on bolt and receiver ring, and original, 19x, and over an 'A' on the receiver ring, 19x only on the bolt. 
