- Location
- West Quebec
Does it actually work for something..?
Enfield P14------really bad rust..
- Thread starter Nitroxrunsthrume
- Start date
Does it actually work for something..?
Winchester30-30
Regular
- Location
- Fraserwood, MB
Clr? Stripped my Enfield down to the bare metal!
- Location
- West Quebec
Exactly a rip off IMHO
- Location
- West Quebec
Same here.. useless
Winchester30-30
Regular
- Location
- Fraserwood, MB
I have a post in the gunsmithing forum with pics, it worked amazingly!
- Location
- West Quebec
- Location
- On a resonably direct route in NS
CLR *used* to contain phosphoric acid, which works great at removing Calcium, Lime, and Rust. But the formula was changed when all the detergents went phosphate-free, to prevent algal blooms from run-off and the like.
Now it just contains some weak organic acids and stuff; it's probably gentle enough to use as a douche.
I'm gonna guess that if the label lacks the international warning symbol for corrosive material (a hand with the flesh melted off it!), it ain't gonna help much with rust. Did you find an old bottle in the barn? 'Cause that one would work.
Anyway, to the first post: I envisioned something FAR worse than the pictures when you described it. Not knowing the condition of the bore, I don't think electrolysis or a soak in Evapo-Rust is needed, just some scrubbin'.
- Location
- West Quebec
There you go discusion ended lol
- Location
- West Quebec
Good, steel , wire wheel in the grinder won't do any more damage.
Grizz
good bet
This actually works with feed molasses, ive used it for big metal items like axe heads that i've found metal detecting, takes a couple weeks of soaking but they come out white...something to do with the fermentation process does the work. and it does smell like the devil
- Location
- West Quebec
Very Interesting
Hey guys, I saw this thread a few days ago but forgot to chime in on it.
Smellie speaks the truth, I actually tought him something instead of him teaching me all of the time.
I bought 1861 3 band Snider earlier this year. It was complete, stock broken in 1/2 and most importantly the bore was well, a sewer pipe. I scrubbed, polished and CLR'd but got nowhere. That's about the time I stumbled upon a thread about electrolysis. So with nothing to loose I tried it. I used a 2 amp battery charger and a 4' piece if 1/4" rod from princess auto. I used baking soda which is supposed to be a no no but it worked for me.
Here a pic of my set up in my gun room.
Notice the bubbles on the left in the second pic, that's how you know it's working as the bubbles will start right away.
It consisted of the box the gun came in lined with 6 mil poly. I placed the barreled action in with the 1/4" rod inserted in the barrel. I taped both ends and the center of the rod with electrical tape so the rod wouldn't short out in the bore. I hooked up the leads from the charger to the rod and the barrel and let it work it's magic. I treated the barrel barrel for a total of 16 hours. The rod gets pretty dirty so about every 2-3 hours I had to pull it out and clean it with a towel.
I know this whole thing sounds like crazy talk but it works.
Here's my barrel after 2 weeks of scrubbing:
And here it is after 2- 8 hour treatments in the electrolysis tank.
There still is some pitting in there but the 99% of the rust and pitting is gone, and there's lots of shine in the barrel. Total cost to do the electrolysis cost about $10.
Anyhow, it really works and the best part is all you have to do is turn on your charger and walk away!
Smellie speaks the truth, I actually tought him something instead of him teaching me all of the time.
I bought 1861 3 band Snider earlier this year. It was complete, stock broken in 1/2 and most importantly the bore was well, a sewer pipe. I scrubbed, polished and CLR'd but got nowhere. That's about the time I stumbled upon a thread about electrolysis. So with nothing to loose I tried it. I used a 2 amp battery charger and a 4' piece if 1/4" rod from princess auto. I used baking soda which is supposed to be a no no but it worked for me.
Here a pic of my set up in my gun room.
Notice the bubbles on the left in the second pic, that's how you know it's working as the bubbles will start right away.
It consisted of the box the gun came in lined with 6 mil poly. I placed the barreled action in with the 1/4" rod inserted in the barrel. I taped both ends and the center of the rod with electrical tape so the rod wouldn't short out in the bore. I hooked up the leads from the charger to the rod and the barrel and let it work it's magic. I treated the barrel barrel for a total of 16 hours. The rod gets pretty dirty so about every 2-3 hours I had to pull it out and clean it with a towel.
I know this whole thing sounds like crazy talk but it works.
Here's my barrel after 2 weeks of scrubbing:
And here it is after 2- 8 hour treatments in the electrolysis tank.
There still is some pitting in there but the 99% of the rust and pitting is gone, and there's lots of shine in the barrel. Total cost to do the electrolysis cost about $10.
Anyhow, it really works and the best part is all you have to do is turn on your charger and walk away!
I would be all over trying the electrolysis to be honest. Another great product is the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner. Looks like a steel scrubbie pad but is made of something softer. I grabbed a couple and they work amazing. Takes off rust without touching the bluing. I've used it on 4 or 5 guns so far and it's been fantastic. I had heard about it on rimfire central and gave it a go. For the cost it's well worth it but the electrolysis would be my choice on something really bad.
