Engine Oil??

Vygur

Vygur

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Edmonton
So I'm told that going to your car and getting straight plain engine oil works much better for lubing your firearm than the regular stuff... and cheaper too, explanation was "your car runs minimum 1500 rounds per minute where as our firearms on a machine would run max 500-600 rounds per minute and the car never dries out"

So is this true? Should I just be going to the store and grabbing some engine oil and some really good strong solvent for cleaning?
 
I would recommend using good motor oil in your motor.

I would recommend a can of G96 Gun Treatment for overall use and Hoppes #9 as a powder solvent.

It really does not cost that much for products designed for firearms.... and they last a long time too.
 
Engine oil has so many additives that are absolutely redundant for use in a gun oil that I would suggest that you use an oil specifically blended for that purpose. One good one has been suggested already. There are many better choices than Engine oil. Regards, Eagleye. (Auto Repair Technician since 1968)
 
Whatever the application, gun, car, space shuttle. Why would you want to #### around to save a couple of dollars on oil?
 
But does it smell anywhere near as good as TW25B. If we're playin this game I'd rather use something from an F-16 than a Ford 150...:p
 
Use atf instead of engine oil. Easier to apply & the detergents help keep things clean. In cold temperatures engine oil with turn almost solid but it was the only way to get my k98 bolt to smooth out. That being said, my current favorite lube is mpro 7 gun oil. Nice stuff!
 
The bearing pressures on MOVING surfaces in most guns is very low, so almost any oil will do just fine. Yes there is a lot of pressure on locking lugs, but the lugs aren't moving when the pressure is being applied.

Roller or ball bearings in an engine are completely different with extremely high point pressures applied hundreds of millions of times. The quality of the oil, including the additive packages, is extremely important for the engine to keep functioning.

For example, an important oil additive is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. It "cushions" metal to metal contact .

Note that zinc has recently been removed from car oils to protect catalytic converters (oils marked Certified for Automobile Use) but is still present in HD oils for diesels. Bearings and rings in a diesel would not get anywhere near the current life if not for the zinc additive.
 
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I use Castrol Syntec ATF for all of my guns. IIRC, some guy tested it against one of the better gun oils, and it was virtually identical, except that gun oil was twice the price for half as much. :rolleyes:
 
Gun oil is overpriced. 5W30 will work just as well if not better than any gun oil. You need something that can handle the high heat and not gum up. Engine oil does that.
 
I've used it, and in my personal experience, I can't see any difference.

As long as it doesn't rot the finish off your bluing and stock or get all gummy, who cares?

.
 
D_ said:
Gun oil is overpriced. 5W30 will work just as well if not better than any gun oil. You need something that can handle the high heat and not gum up. Engine oil does that.
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You need something that can handle the high heat and not gum up.:confused::confused::confused:

What the hell are you talking about? What high heat does a lubricant need to stand up to with a firearm? The only part I know of that gets really hot is the bore of the rifle... and you sure should not be putting motor oil in it before each shot ...

I am still going to recommend G-96 Gun Treatment. It is silicone based and does not gum up with age, it does not attract and hold dust and dirt, it also does not become stiff at 60 degrees below zero.

I don't think that can be said of your motor oils.
 
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