Enlighten me

buckchaser

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
23   0   0
Location
Ottawa
I apologize if these questions have been answered frequently. I searched the forum and didn't find any threads so I thought I would post.

I am seriously considering getting into reloading as it will allow me to shoot "oddball" calibers (I like the idea of shooting something "different") and also put together bullet combinations optimized for my hunting.

Two questions:

1) How difficult is it? I am not a "handy" person at all in terms of building/fixing things.

2) Start up cost for legitimately good equipment, not a cheap "starter kit" that I'll want to get rid of ASAP.

Thanks.
 
By the time you build yourself a bench and buy a decent reloading kit and a few of the other goodies you're looking at a ballpark figure of $1000. I made all the calculations when I was buying equipment. If I was loading match quality ammunition rather than buying it for only my .223, then my $1000 worth of equipment would pay itself off in about 650 loaded rounds. I have since spent much more than $1000 but also reloaded much much more than 650 rounds.

If you're good at reading a few books and doing a little research and being methodical about your work is not hard at all. It's a step by step process. If you have anyone around to help show you how then it's even easier. The key here is attention to detail.
 
My "starter kit" I will never get rid of.

My Lee starter kit, besides doing reloads" is used to size bullets, make gas checks and test for hardness.

When the time comes to buy another press, this one will be relegated to special purposes. (Punching gas checks)

$1000 should set you up stunningly....
 
Many of us started with a some once fired factory brass that had been kept, a simple Lee loader kit, box of bullets, pound of powder and box of primers. A square of plywood on the kitchen table and a plastic/rubber mallet. All my first 500 or so went "bang", just following the instruction in the Lee Loader. I still have all that stuff, but haven't used it for 30+ years.
If I were to do it over - first, get a reloading manual - Speer, Sierra, Hornady, Nosler - doesn't really matter which - in the end you will have all of them and then some. All of these have really good step-by-step instructions with pictures. Go with published information, not necessarily what you read on Internet (Ha! I realize the irony of you reading that here!).

Get or set up a place to work that is without distractions - no TV, no kids or significant other needing attention, no emails or text messaging, etc. For example, if you ever get an interruption, and double load a powder charge because you forget where you were at in the sequence, or miss a charge and end up with a squib part way up the barrel, the results will never be good. Not to be "histrionic" about reloading - it is quite safe and very satisfying so long as you properly manage all the risks.

You are going to want a loading "bench" to fasten your press to. This is where your stated "lack of handiness" might be challenged, but, really, a 2x10 or 2x12 4 feet long mounted on a wall about 32" off the floor, with 2x10 "legs" on each end makes all the strength you'd need to mount a reloading press. I've heard of it being done on kitchen table, but never tried drilling mounting holes through mine (I am still married after 41 years and like it that way :)

I've loaded thousands of centerfire rounds with a single stage press. It's an hour or so to run 100 brass through the sizing die, and trim them all with a Lee case length trimmer in an electric drill, chamfering with an RCBS chamfer tool. You must have a powder scale. At the start, you can use it to weigh out each load. Then you'll likely want a powder trickler to make that go a bit faster. Maybe then you'll want a powder measure - that does you no good without the scale to get it set up in the first place. And, eventually, you'll be into a electronic powder dispensing system like I now use.

Set of dies for each caliber you plan to load. Shell holder for each different cartridge head size. (Lee dies normally come with the shell holder included, RCBS don't).

You would not be far wrong to consider an RCBS Rockchucker starting kit or something similar - everything from Manual to scale is in there - add a set of dies, some way to trim cases (Lee case trim set up is very handy), powder, primers and bullets and you should be on your way.

One last point - I'd forget any notion about this being "economical". My Dad shot literally truck loads of deer and moose in his lifetime, but I doubt he ever owned more than a box and a half of cartridges at any one time in his life. He thought 2 boxes of 22 Long Rifle was a lot of shells. He could not fathom going through 500 centerfire loads over a summer, without anything other than holes in paper to show for it. And now I have found out that casting one's own bullets does not make the pastime any cheaper either!
 
i honestly think the best do it all, no extra bits to buy kit is the " RCBS supreme master reloading kit" literally has every thing you need minus dies / componenets. (about $900)

or the "rock chucker supreme kit" (about $400) but you will need to purchase a case trimmer separately, and you dont have the electronic dispenser/ scale


either kit is great, i started with the rock chucker kit, added a trimmer (bout 80 IIRC) and then bought a chargemaster dispenser/scale (another 350) a few months downt he road/ the chargemaster is nice as its a few pushes of the button to change charge weight, the powder throwers can be alot of dicking around to change weight / powder types.

over the years, iv added on more presses and tools but its almost like another hobby. for odd ball / large calibers they save tones! for example, to buy any sort of ammo for my .50AE im looking at $60+ for 20 rounds... OR load it for about 45 cents.. saves me over 3/4 of the price..

reloading doesn't really save you money, it just lets you shoot more for the same cost!! ok well it can save you money if you are one of those guys who shoots only a certain amount of ammo regardless of how much it costs


i wouldny say you need to be handy to do it, just need a bit of attention to detail, and to learn what steps have to be done and in what order
 
Loading ammo is like baking a cake. Follow the recipe and you will get a good result.

If you can spend some time with a buddy, seeing how he does it, or (a case of beer might serve as bait) get him to come over and help set up your press, you will see it is not rocket science.

It is an interesting hobby in its own right, if you are so inclined.
 
the only thing about reloading is it can become very expensive.when you amas 40 or 50 lbs of powder, 20 or 30 thousand primers and thousands of bullets. not to mention the cupboard full of brass. just kidding. if you like the less common rounds it will save lots of money. i reload 375H&H and 8 mag for arround a dollar a round. retail is closer to 3 to 4 dollars a round. less common rounds not so large a savings but you still save.
 
You don't need a dedicated bench, although it'd be nice to have one. I simply clamp my single stage press to my desk with 3 big C-clamps, and put it away in the desk drawer when I'm not using it. Works a treat.
 
If I were starting over I would not buy a kit. I'm a big fan of "buy once, cry once"...

Press... Forster Coax
Scale... RCBS RangeMaster 750
Powder Dispenser (optional but really nice to have)... Hornady LnL Auto Powder
Dies... Take your pick

For a trimmer, all the manual crank ones perform similarly. What you pick should really depend on how much you are going to reload.

Case gauges, love the Lyman ones, use em on every case once I have resized to check for whether I need to trim.

Get a good caliper to ensure your overall length is good.

There are other things such as reloading trays, a powder funnel, stuff to lube the cases, a tumbler/cleaner of some sort. I like the Frankford trays, I have a couple of Dillon CV-500 tumblers and a separator. When I lube I use Lee case lube that comes in a small toothpaste like container. I throw the brass into a plastic bowl (dedicated to this task) put on rubber/latex gloves, squirt a bunch of lube on my hands and then mix around the cases to get an even light coating. Once I am done sizing/depriming I run the cases through the tumbler for 30 minutes to clean the lube off.

I use a hand primer most of the time to prime while I am watching TV or something trivial. The Forster Coax comes with a priming system so you can use that.

edit: I forgot... with the number of reloading videos on youtube along with every powder vendor having online recipe books for their powders I honestly wouldn't recommend buying a reloading manual to anyone anymore.
 
Last edited:
Hayya fur sniffer, see if you can git yer arse adopted or tucked under a wing by a CGN close to
you that reloads.
Sure don't hert to be a bystander and wartch someone that appears to know what the fruck they
are doing.
Little easier than read'in werds and lingo that don't make much sense until you apply yerself.
I got a boost by a feller reloader.
 
You don't need a pile of cash to get started. If I thought I needed to dump a thousand bucks just to get into it I probably wouldn't be reloading. Buy once cry once sounds great but in reality you're buying someone's opinion not what you've used and like or dislike. The best attitude is to look forward to learning. That means trying things that interest you and being ready to try something else if it doesn't work the way you wanted it to. No brand removes the requirement for some mechanical aptitude. I don't care how much you spend, you are still reforming metal with mechanical equipment utilizing many threads, linkages, levers etc that need some adjustment and understanding. You can't buy your way around that. Its not rocket science and you can do it but there is a learning curve. A good manual is what you want to start with. Then another one. They have more info than anyone has the time to type up on a forum and will give you the basic knowledge to get started. A mentor is a good idea, preferably someone with many years experience but not totally necessary.
 
I apologize if these questions have been answered frequently. I searched the forum and didn't find any threads so I thought I would post.

I am seriously considering getting into reloading as it will allow me to shoot "oddball" calibers (I like the idea of shooting something "different") and also put together bullet combinations optimized for my hunting.

Two questions:

1) How difficult is it? I am not a "handy" person at all in terms of building/fixing things.

2) Start up cost for legitimately good equipment, not a cheap "starter kit" that I'll want to get rid of ASAP.

Thanks.

"Oddball" That one word makes this an interesting question.

"Oddball" can mean anything from making "not standard loads offered by the ammo manuf. to rudimentary neck sizing for a simple wildcat to very extensive forming of brass for some long obsolete BP cartridge. Each increase in intended use will require more robust machinery/dies. Most can be handled by most any mid level press offered by most manufacturers but if you want to "form brass or size bullets" one of the most robust cast iron single stage presses would be minimally appropriate.

Being "un-handy" isn't a problem for very long. No mechanicaly inclined person was ever born that way... some learned how to problem solve at an early age through adult coaching but it is never too late to learn the skill. The already suggested idea of finding a "Mentor" , in your case, is a very good one. Once you watch some one solve a problem or two you soon realize that that wasn't so hard. Problem solving sometimes just takes the courage to act out on what you've decided "may" be a fix. Reloading is a repetitious operation for the most part...once you are familiar with one operation, it is repeated exactly the same numerous times.

Cost wise for the first two stages of my defined "oddballing" I would think that a good "starter" kit can be gathered for a lot less than $500 and an old desk or bench. The third stage of "oddballing" requires basically the same kit as the first two except with a much more robust press and a very sturdy bench. Still might be in the $500 range but could be much more depending on how "Cadillac" you go on the "peripherals" ( electronic measures, case prep station etc.). If you engage in the third level as I do, you will undoubtedly acquire much more "stuff" (forming dies, sizers, molds...it never ends) over time but can be acquired as it is needed.

Get a mentor!!!!... and good luck
 
1) It ain't rocket science. If you can read, you can reload. Buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading from your local gun shop or Amazon and read it.
2) The Beginner's kits are not cheap crap. They are just everything you need less dies and shell holder. Think roughly $500(Like supernova says, you do not need to spend a grand or even close to it to get started. There's a lot of stuff that serves primarily to separate you from your money that you just don't need. Mostly assorted gauges. A digital Vernier calipre is all you need.), plus the cost of a solid work bench. The work bench doesn't have to be expensive or a real work bench.
Odd ball cartridges can get pricey even when reloading. Usually due needing to special order dies and maybe not being able to find the correct bullet.
 
If I were starting over I would not buy a kit. I'm a big fan of "buy once, cry once"...

Press... Forster Coax
Scale... RCBS RangeMaster 750
Powder Dispenser (optional but really nice to have)... Hornady LnL Auto Powder
Dies... Take your pick

For a trimmer, all the manual crank ones perform similarly. What you pick should really depend on how much you are going to reload.

Case gauges, love the Lyman ones, use em on every case once I have resized to check for whether I need to trim.

Get a good caliper to ensure your overall length is good.

There are other things such as reloading trays, a powder funnel, stuff to lube the cases, a tumbler/cleaner of some sort. I like the Frankford trays, I have a couple of Dillon CV-500 tumblers and a separator. When I lube I use Lee case lube that comes in a small toothpaste like container. I throw the brass into a plastic bowl (dedicated to this task) put on rubber/latex gloves, squirt a bunch of lube on my hands and then mix around the cases to get an even light coating. Once I am done sizing/depriming I run the cases through the tumbler for 30 minutes to clean the lube off.

I use a hand primer most of the time to prime while I am watching TV or something trivial. The Forster Coax comes with a priming system so you can use that.

edit: I forgot... with the number of reloading videos on youtube along with every powder vendor having online recipe books for their powders I honestly wouldn't recommend buying a reloading manual to anyone anymore.
+1 I like this route and started with most of this equipment..
 
Back
Top Bottom