Eotech at a 1000 yds ! - how to

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Now that I have your attention -

With the correct size black dot target at 200 yds. - notice how the red dot moves about 3 to 4 inches left and right off the target as your cheek weld moves left or right ? And your groups suck ?

Solution - make sure your flip up irons are sighted in -

Then - fold yer front down and flip up yer rear -

Circle within circle - just like Olympic Anschutz irons . The rear flip up ensures you are centered on the Eotech circle.

The human eye can co-ordinate circles within circles better than ANYTHING -
Just ask the experts -

Lotta people forgot -

I posted this cause I forgot - :redface:
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Isn't the whole point of a red dot sight that it isn't sensitive to parallax error? At any reasonable distance for an RDS optic (i.e. considerably less than 1000 yards), any parallax error should be negligible for their intended purpose, which is not printing tiny groups from a bench.

If you want to shoot at 1000 yards accurately without magnification, you need good target-type iron sights.
 
Isn't the whole point of a red dot sight that it isn't sensitive to parallax error? At any reasonable distance for an RDS optic (i.e. considerably less than 1000 yards), any parallax error should be negligible for their intended purpose, which is not printing tiny groups from a bench.

If you want to shoot at 1000 yards accurately without magnification, you need good target-type iron sights.

Here's the real answer.

TDC
 
Red Dot Movement

Isn't the whole point of a red dot sight that it isn't sensitive to parallax error? At any reasonable distance for an RDS optic (i.e. considerably less than 1000 yards), any parallax error should be negligible for their intended purpose, which is not printing tiny groups from a bench.

If you want to shoot at 1000 yards accurately without magnification, you need good target-type iron sights.

The point of my post is not to shoot at a 1000 without magnification - it is to shoot more accurately with red dots at longer than CQB distances.

If your eye is not exactly dead center of the view screen, the dot is not lined up with the target. At 200 yds. the small red dot of an Eotech when placed on an appropriate black dot (a small black ring around the red dot) moves off the target as the eye moves off center (as in a slightly different cheek weld).

The rear iron is to center the dot in the peep thus the eye is centered on the view screen and the dot centered on the target - always.

I figured out how to pipe in I Tunes into my Peltors - now to figure out how to get Direct TV on my Eotech - Hmmmmmmmmmm - ;)

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The point of my post is not to shoot at a 1000 without magnification - it is to shoot more accurately with red dots at longer than CQB distances.

If your eye is not exactly dead center of the view screen, the dot is not lined up with the target. At 200 yds. the small red dot of an Eotech when placed on an appropriate black dot (a small black ring around the red dot) moves off the target as the eye moves off center (as in a slightly different cheek weld).

The rear iron is to center the dot in the peep thus the eye is centered on the view screen and the dot centered on the target - always.

I figured out how to pipe in I Tunes into my Peltors - now to figure out how to get Direct TV on my Eotech - Hmmmmmmmmmm - ;)

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With EoTech sights if the red dot is moving it's because your eye is moving, POI should not change. This is why you can almost completely shatter the glass or obstruct the glass with mud or snow and it will still work.
 
With EoTech sights if the red dot is moving it's because your eye is moving, POI should not change. This is why you can almost completely shatter the glass or obstruct the glass with mud or snow and it will still work.

POI WILL change - Try it. I did - thats why I posted.

Look through the screen - the dot is on target - shoot a group. Move your eye to the side off center differently from your first cheek weld - put the dot on target - shoot a group - The group is in a different place. :eek:

The dot does move from center screen with the eye when you move your eye off centre - but it also moves OFF the target.

It IS negligable at close distance but at 200 yds the movement of the dot off target is enough to miss the apricot and have a whizz sound beside the goblins ear making it duck and cover .

At 300 yards its enough of a miss to hit the outhouse instead of the hillbilly from deliverance kickin in the door of your farmhouse. ;)
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I just tried this at home, put my rifle in my cleaning rest so it wouldn't move (unloaded and trigger locked). I aimed it out the window in a safe direction at a point about 400 yards in the distance and I have to tell you that no matter where my eye was the dot was always in the exact same spot.
 
I just tried this at home, put my rifle in my cleaning rest so it wouldn't move (unloaded and trigger locked). I aimed it out the window in a safe direction at a point about 400 yards in the distance and I have to tell you that no matter where my eye was the dot was always in the exact same spot.

I beg to differ - An Eotech dot if tested properly (within the parameters of my post) WILL behave exactly as I have said. -

For any doubters - dont depend on us internet commando's - go to the range and try what I suggested for yourself - You'll see - Just as others who tried it with me when I did it.

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A peep sight acts as a lens, so if you put it in front of another sighting system, it can affect POI.

I agree that there is an effect but I believe it is inconsequential as it affects focus (clearing it) as in smaller peeps seeming to put things in the same focal length (front post and target appearing crisper) which I think is a benefit.

If the back and front irons are sighted in and the dot is in the center of the top of the front post I did not notice a dot shift when flipping up the rear. I noticed a sharper but darker image.

For low light I think flipping up the front to center the dot would work well also but the eotech outer circle is perfectly sized for all the military rail mount flip up rear peeps and is more exact than lollypopping the dot over the front blade.

But this is the intraweb - full of opinions -

The best way to research an opinion is to try for yourself to make up your own mind based on your own experience.

That was what I was doing in my post - sharing what happened to me .

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POI WILL change - Try it. I did - thats why I posted.

Look through the screen - the dot is on target - shoot a group. Move your eye to the side off center differently from your first cheek weld - put the dot on target - shoot a group - The group is in a different place. :eek:

"Somebody got themselves a fake-o-tech..."

Legit EoTech = no movement. It's inherent in the reflex design.

-M
 
"Somebody got themselves a fake-o-tech..."

Legit EoTech = no movement. It's inherent in the reflex design.

-M

Its an Eotech, a real one. What I describe affects all tubeless red dots and cheap tube sights also.

Aimpoint doesn't seem to move off target.

I couldnt find any Eotech claims or advertizing that Aimpoint has -

Aimpoint advertizes - "Regardless of where you position your eye, the reflection of the LED is always parallel with the sight’s optical axis, thanks to the design of the double lens and its light refraction property. The points of aim and impact always coincide."

Aimpoint also claims thats whats different about an Aimpoint and ALL the other red dot sights (which dont have the double lens system).

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"Somebody got themselves a fake-o-tech..."

Legit EoTech = no movement. It's inherent in the reflex design.

-M

A reflex sight with no magnification can be held at any distance from the eye (see eye relief), and at almost any angle, without distorting the image of the target or reticle, and without causing the reticle to "move" relative to the target. But parallax compensation is not perfect, and depending on the sight's design, the range to the target, and the magnitude of angle at which it is looked into, aiming error can be non-trivial due to parallax.

From the definition of a reflex sight - " It's inherent in the reflex design." f:P:2:

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